Cyberthrasher

Yep, I just saw it too I think!! Had to show it off to the wife "see, these are the kind of people I associate with!!!"

Well, the best method is to have your friend measure his waist instead of going off of pant size. Pant sizes aren't uniform and are never represented in actual inches. But, if you MUST go off of pant size, I find that adding 4" will give you close to their waist size. So, I wear a 38 pant, and my waist size is just under 42". I like to add 10" to that measurement to account for the buckle flap and the adjustment at the billet end. There will be a little left over once you get it sized perfectly. Just get your buckle end all sorted out, install the buckle temporarily (or just set it in place), measure from where the buckle tongue hits the bar out to your waist measurement - this will be your center hole for adjustment. I like to add 4 or 5 holes past that since a lot of people gain weight and it makes for a better looking strap in my opinion. Either way, figure out how much extra you want to leave for growth, then trim off whatever excess is there after that. I can probably find some pictures somewhere to show it better than I can explain it, but that should get you started in the right direction.

It will be a while. I just need to figure out what font would be a good one that a majority of people might like. It's just good to know that you're thinking along the same lines.

If you want to get a BearMaul, just get ahead of Ed and let him know what you're doing with it. He'll be able to advise you on weight. most people prefer about a 16 - 18 oz for general tooling. Punching holes and slots, you may want to go a little heavier.

That's awesome!! I've been planning on getting a hold of you at some point to work on some custom alphabets like this!!

I always do custom fonts just like any other kind of artwork. Actually, my Craftool letter stamps are pretty much reserved as a "budget" option to save a little time for people. Just trace and transfer like normal, cut, bevel and off you go with any font you want.

You should be able to get them from here. Not sure if you need a Google account to get them, but it's easy enough to signup for one. This is the 2nd link that was added to the original post. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-4Qszr7V8BTZ285RFVEQVdxNVU/edit?pli=1

That's what happens when I schedule too much stuff to do during a week off I was actually referring to the possibility that I may have discussed it with someone else, so I wasn't entirely sure I was talking to the right person. My mind's just everywhere, so it gets hard to keep things straight sometimes. Now, sometimes you'll want to apply your oil to the dye, especially if it needs a little help evening things out. There are times where my black looks a little uneven, so I rub a little oil on JUST the black to let it set in and even up the dye a little. It just takes some practice/experience to know what each situation is going to do.

First off, Montana Pitch Blend is a leather conditioner that has oil in it which is meant to be applied to a finished product - not a replacement for neatsfoot oil. I'm pretty sure I had discussed that with you before, but it's been a long week, so I just want to make sure I put it out there . Now, the root of your question. The dye's have a tendency to suck any natural oils out of the leather. So, after dying, we need to add some oils back into the leather in order for it maintain its properties that we all love. If the dye is properly left to dry and buffed, there usually isn't too much of an issue with the oil. But, if you're going through extremes in color (natural to black as an example), then you're likely to get some discoloration - which is why I apply from the flesh side at that point.

cool. At least you got someone to help you out locally. Sounds like a pretty big project.

Jim, a note about thin vs. thick that I had never though about before until I read a bit from Paul Burnett on it. He says the thin blade actually doesn't do much to get a more detailed line, it just has less resistance and manages to plunge itself deeper into the leather in a bad way. Not to say it's not a good knife, but all the figure carving that Paul did was done with a standard "thick" angled blade. I actually use the 3/8 blade with a 1/2 barrel on all my stuff, and I have pretty large hands. I got a standard 3/8 thick straight blade for my BK barrel when I bought it, but then bought a 3/8 angled with the Tandy shaft to go into another barrel. The straight is my primary, and I use the angled when I need to do some tighter detail. Nothing wrong with being self taught man, just gotta stick with it, read, and be honest with how it looks. I study A LOT and I like to think it shows. Get some of Paul's books and you'll learn a lot about tooling there. I recommend the "Carving Bundle" here http://paintingcow.c...arving_bundle1/

The first thought I have about misting it is that the "mist" is a bunch of drops, which will likely settle on the leather like like a bunch of drops - spotty. I just put mine on with a blue Scott shop towel. Little bit on the towel and light pressure. I never have any problems with uneven application.

Start with some Sheridan bevelers. The steep pitch on them will allow you get a lot closer detail and less of that unsightly halo. I'd say get yourself a set of Barry King smooth bevelers, perhaps 00 and 1 for sizes. That should run you about $50 for the 2 of them. It's hard for me to explain the differences. The lines are crisper, they walk smoother, just all around better attention to how the tool was meant to perform.

Not sure how I forgot to mention it, but it's been a busy day

Yeah, this place is pretty cool isn't it - it's where I learned everything I know anyway

DO IT!!!!!

Hey, I use sponges that I get in a 10 pack from the dollar store, and then cut them up into squares, about 6 each - so that's 60 applicators for $1 - Beat that!!! seriously though, I tried a brush when I first started using it and didn't like the results, but I was still pretty new at the time. I'm sure that now I could get a better result - I've just had good success with the sponge so I haven't had the need to change it.

Neatsfoot is the preferred choice (pure, not compound). It will be easier to get an even application by applying it to the grain side. But, if you have varying color, such as black to natural, the oil may lift some of the pigment out and move it around. At times like this, I apply it to the flesh side so I don't disturb the color. The goal is to get the oil into the leather. Also, keep in mind that it will darken the leather. The more you apply, the darker it will get. This is another benefit to applying it on the flesh side occasionally. When it comes down to it, you'll just want to experiment and find what works best for you.

I've heard so many good things about RTC, so I've been wanting to try it out. Talking to a lot of people in another group, I don't recall any of them saying that they use anything else underneath it. So, you may try putting the RTC directly on the leather. If you need to oil at that point, you can always oil from the flesh side, at least until you get the main issue sorted out. That will show you how it works with nothing but dye on the leather. I was saving up for my BearMaul, then decided to treat myself with it out of my tax returns (as well as a LeatherWrangler's round knife). I got the 18 oz since it should suit most of my work. I hardly ever do any heavy hitting work.

pretty much I keep using MPB as an example because it's what I use and it fits the topic. When applied, it leaves a wax finish on top and allows the oil to soak through to the leather. The wax coating allows any water to bead up and offers a layer of protection for any scuffs. Think of it as a "temporary finish" that your customer can reapply as needed. Kind of like using leather care products on your boots, because that's exactly what it is, leather care.

If you're planning on using it as the last layer, then you don't have to worry about anything adhering to it, because all the dye and lacquer will be UNDER the wax/oil mixture. When i say the last layer, it is the very last layer. At the point I put that on, everything is done and ready to go out the door. Basically you're doing the "maintenance" step that your customers should be doing on occasion. That's another reason I prefer the pre-made conditioner. It's something that I can instruct them to use as well so that I know they'll have a good product to use that won't react any differently then what I use on it. http://www.montanapitchblend.com/our-products.html

Tina, have you experimented with RTC at all? They claim that it only needs 1 coat, though I've been reading recently about people using 2 anyway. From what he's describing, it sounds like NOTHING is adhering to his leather. I'm a little confused, was the Bick 4 put on before or after the finish? If it were before, I'm willing to bet that that's the issue.

If you can't spray (or don't have any need to based on the project), then a sponge is really good once you get the hang of it. LIGHTLY moisten the sponge (no dripping water when squeezed) before splashing a little Resolene on it. Then apply light pressure on your project in one straight run, then go back over what you just did in tight little circles to rub it in and get rid of any bubbles. The more you push on the sponge, the more bubbles you'll get. Just practice and you'll see the difference in no time.

Nope, you're not screwed. You just need to seal the dye in. I don't do holsters, but I know I've seen a lot of the regulars post that they use Fiebing's Resolene the same as I do on all of my products. I do a lot of belts with the backs dyed black. Black will bleed more than anything else out there, so if the Resolene prevents it there, it should have no issues sealing the brown. I mix it 50/50 with water and apply it with a lightly moistened sponge (absolutely NO water dripping from the sponge when squeezed). Just wipe it on in one stroke, then go back and rub it in with tight little circles to even it up and eliminate any bubbles. You will want 2 - 3 LIGHT coats. If you don't thin it 50/50, you'll end up with lots of problems.

You can use a product like that as a FINAL step. Think about it, what good is the wax going to do when it's sitting under an acrylic finish? The oil is used to condition the leather, the wax is used to offer water resistance to the very top layer. As far as neatsfoot oil goes, it will darken things, so if you're using a lighter color dye, be sure to either apply it lightly, or apply it from the flesh side of the leather. This will also help to keep from moving pigment around after dying. This is really important for me when I have natural portions of my leather surrounded by stuff like black. My general methods: carve dye buff,buff,buff oil finish antique finish wax/oil conditioner (Montana Pitch Blend is my favorite) There are some adjustments that I make if I'm airbrushing, but I have a feeling that may confuse the issue here. Also, in regards to oiling after finishing - I have found that oil WILL penetrate Resolene, but it takes a really long time. This is why it's a water resistant finish and not water proof. Your standard oiling step should always be done before applying the finish. After all of my finishing, I apply my Montana Pitch Blend and let it sit over night. By morning the oil in the product has soaked through the finish and left the wax on top. Then I just buff up any extra and send it on its way.