Cyberthrasher

I know a few people use brushes. it's not my preferred method, but I've seen it work

ALWAYS cut Resolene 50/50 with water. It will never apply correctly otherwise. It will either look like crap, or go on too thick and end up cracking and chipping. I usually give it at least an hour between coats, sometimes 2, others I just leave it overnight. If you don't wait long enough you'll end up reactivating the previous coat and making a mess of things. I had to learn that one the hard way and almost scrapped an order, but luckily I was able to fix it. Thin it 50/50, lightly moisten a sponge with water and squeeze out any and all drops. Then I put just a little on the sponge by covering my container and splashing a little onto it. Apply super light pressure when putting it on the leather. If you push too hard, you'll squeeze out too much and get a bunch of bubbles. If you do get some bubbles, work them out. As always - get the hang of it on scrap first. Re-reading your question - Resolene WILL NOT block out acrylic paint or dye. It will ONLY resist Antique and Stain. Seriously, if you want to resist anything else, go to Hobby Lobby or a train store and pick up some Woodland Scenics Liquid Latex. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/woo/wooc1204.htm?source=froogle&gclid=CI_l4-nF9bYCFQ_ZQgod1TMAnA Perhaps this article on leatherlearn.com will help to clear up some of the resisting confusion and show examples of what happens with dye. http://www.johan-potgieter.com/ll/?p=26

I see a lot of people who stitch things up before they trim and edge. Are they just being extra careful with their lines and spacing? I always thought the way you stated it was best, but seeing them do it (and recommend it) the other way always makes me wonder. I just haven't done enough stitching to really form my own conclusion

The belly will usually be a lot more flexible and soft. A lot of times the flesh side will be pretty stringy and have visible stretch marks in it too.

uhm, then why do we vaccinate cattle in the neck and butt and not in the shoulder for fear of breaking a needle?

If you have the time, I'd give it a couple of days. It doesn't really matter though if you're just looking at assembly. As long as you can get to any area that might settle out to be not-so-good, it shouldn't be a problem. I usually wait at least overnight before I do anything else after dye.

There aren't any "resist" products that work with dye. It's just too strong. Most of those techniques you see in the videos are done with highlighter/stains or antique. If you'd like to resist dye, the best thing I've found is liquid latex, which is painted on and then removed once you're done. Think of it like liquid masking tape. I think a common mistake that many new people make is thinking that pretty much everything is either dye or acrylic, which is why getting the hang of the coloring process can be the most difficult step sometimes. Hell, I'm still modifying my processes and learning new things all the time. It doesn't matter how much you water down acrylic, it WON'T soak into the leather. Only the water will. But, thinning it is the right thing to do if you have to use it (anything that's "white" based will pretty much be acrylic only). If it's properly thinned, it shouldn't flake and crack too bad. Acrylics let you down when they're applied to heavy. The Resolene that Renee was mentioning and that I dam near swear by is an acrylic top coat that is thinned for proper application. I use it on pretty much every guitar strap that leaves my bench.

I say it on Facebook every time and I'm saying it here - You guys make saddles COOL!!!!

my 2 cents? It's a left handed guitar. I'd have it setup for him in a right handed position. Other than that, just do what Murray said and attach the front of the strap against the neck. There are lots of guitars out there that were designed be attached that way anyway.

Barry King or any other "Sheridan" style beveler. They have a steep angle to get into tight spaces. PLUS, they work a hell of a lot better!!! In the meantime, angle the beveler back so the heel doesn't hit the other line as easily, or just use a modeling spoon in that area.

Sounds right to me. All I order is sides and the first thing I do is cut off the belly portion so I don't accidentally use it for anything that requires strength. I can't remember for sure off hand, but I think the billet (the end with all the holes) is supposed to be laid out so that it is on the shoulder portion if you cut your strip from a side. I know it was one end or the other, but I just can't remember the recommendation 100% right now. I'm pretty sure it was the billet end though since that's the end that takes all the stress

1.) compound is a mixture of the neatsfoot oil and "Other" stuff depending on the manufacturer 2.) Always use Pure 3.) Don't use the other because you might end up with something you don't want on your leather. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil

Cool. I've been wanting to get one done for the Young Marines in town, just haven't had the chance to do it yet.

You can. I wouldn't say it's necessary per say. Resolene will seal the leather, so it's harder for any of that stuff to get to the leather to do its thing. I do apply Montana Pitch Blend to a lot of my stuff that's got Resolene on it and just let it sit over night. Eventually the oils in the MPB soak through and leave a wax finish on top. If I remember, I'll see if I can search for a previous thread that had lots of details on finishing/protecting motorcycle seats. Since I haven't made any that have seen the road, most of my input is based on the personal use of leather products on motorcycles and my efforts to protect my guitar straps from stray beer

I was told the other day that Tippmann does layaway on their Boss machine. Aside from that, i would check with each company. There are several dealers here. A couple of them have adds that pop up on the top of the screen. Just refresh your screen until you see one . The main one is for Techsew.

Resolene won't crack if it's applied correctly. It should be applied in a few LIGHT coats thinned 50/50 with water. Another one that's highly recommended is Pecard's Leather Dressing. I haven't used it myself and I'm not sure if it should be used on its own or on top of another product. I have a small sample of it sitting here, just haven't put it on anything yet to see how it performs. But, the guy who gave me the sample uses it religiously for all of his motorcycle gear he produces.

You'll want to apply it to the grain side (the side you tool) after tooling and before dying. Just a light coat. Sometimes you may want to put another light coat on after you dye, but I wouldn't worry about that yet until you're familiar with all the results. Also, keep in mind that if any part of your piece is to be left natural, the oil WILL darken it. During those times I just skip over that part of the leather. If the entire piece is natural, I just oil the back (flesh) side. in regards to putting it on after a finish - it can be done, but keep in mind if your finish is properly applied your leather will be fairly well sealed. I usually apply a wax based conditioner at this point and let it sit over night. I use Resolene for a finish and the oils in my conditioner eventually seep through the finish. Again, i'd wait until you're more familiar with all the results.

I suppose you could staple it, but I would push for rivets or a full bottom cover that will eliminate the need for any fasteners.

I think I read that someone recently contacted Fiebing's about these colors and they've completely removed both from the market (Yes, they're that bad). I got a nice gray though by thinning Royal Blue to about 25/75

Also, since some patterns are WAY too overpriced, don't forget that you can easily just disassemble a product and use it as a pattern. Want a skull cap? Go buy one for a few bucks and pull the seams.

Cool, I'm glad it helped. Be sure to subscribe to their blog as well. http://springfieldleathercompany.wordpress.com/

As far as I know, Fiebing's white is an acrylic paint. Even those bottles that say "Acrylic Dye" are just paint and not to be confused with an actual dye. You should be able to thin it with water and apply it that way, but it will never soak into the leather like a dye will.

I could be way off since I have no experience with holster clips, but is it possible that something like these would work? I have no idea on the spacing. http://springfieldleather.com/29159/Punch%2C9-in-1%2CLacing-Hole/

I was told that the Citadel paints can be cut and that will make them last a lot longer - somewhat making up for the heavy cost. He also told me to try for the "base" colors since they can be applied as is, where the "layer" colors will require a base to get good coverage. I know that "most" acrylics can be cut with water, but I just don't want to guarantee that.

According to Tandy's conversion chart, it would be about 2.77 to 3.18 mm http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx Remember, if it's too thick, you can skive it down. But, you can't add thickness very easily.