daveydude

I just got a 29K & had the same issue with the foot leaving marks on the leather. The machine came with a brand new spare foot, so I took my Dremel to the old one & ground it completely smooth, and rounded the edges. It still feeds fine and leaves only the slightest mark on the leather, nothing a spoon can't fix.

Thanks people - very useful info.

OK, thank you! The guy selling it has extra feet & needle plates, but you're saying it's a lot more involved than that?

I'm looking at a Singer 45K68 which I understand is a sole stitching machine with an angled foot. Does anyone know what the feed mechanism is, and can I replace it with a different foot for general work on veg tan leather? If this machine won't do what I need it to do, which variant of the 45K should I be looking for? Ideally I think I want a walking foot machine. I'm attaching a photo of the actual machine in question.

Thanks for the info guys - I'll pass on them both I think.

Thankyou Bob, very helpful. My other option is a Singer 133K13 but it's hundreds of miles from me - this guy seems to like his though...

Hi everyone - I'm in the market for a leather sewing machine and have been researching for the past couple of weeks. I've found this forum to be absolutely invaluable in my research so thanks to everyone who posts here! Googling "machine xxx leather" almost always brings up posts from this site So, to business. I have a line on a machine located close to me which is advertised as a "Singer 660a" - I don't know the full model number, but for the life of me I can't find anything online about this machine in any of the usual places. I've spoken to the owner who doesn't know a lot about the machine, but he tells me it belonged to his late grandfather who used it to make veg tan quivers. Could anyone tell me anything about the 660 series - especially whether they're needle feed or walking foot? I work with veg tan but am especially looking for something that can sew garment & upholstery leather - if it can manage veg tan as well that would be perfect for me.

Staggering amount of work in that - I am in awe! I was wondering how you manage to wet-form and keep such crisp detail? I've tried to wet-form carved / stamped pieces and found that I tend to lose some of the detail.

Awesome, thanks for all the help people, looks like I will scratch the leather idea - so glad I asked here first! I'm going to look into the polyethylene I think.

I'm setting up a new workshop in a large spare room in our house, and I have the space to set up an old kitchen table to use for pattern making & cutting on larger projects. The idea I have is to cover the table with a heavy duty rubber mat, both for its non-slip properties, and so as not to damage the table surface - something like this: http://slip-not.co.u...-Linear-Meter-C Is this a viable option, and if so, what thickness should I go for? If it's not a good idea, is there an alternative covering I can use?

I'm looking for a pattern for a wide brimmed puritan style hat. I've tried Google but all I come up with are unsuitable kids papercraft instructions. Searching on this forum has also been fruitless. The brim won't be a problem, but I want to make sure I get the side band right. I'm assuming it will need a slight curve to give the correct tapered appearance. I'm looking to create something along the lines of this...

Here's my Kindle cover - hope it helps in some way. LOTR Kindle Cover 1 by armrdleather, on Flickr LOTR Kindle Cover 2 by armrdleather, on Flickr

Google Docs link seems to be broken, but I'd love to take a look at those patterns - dave at armrd.com - thanks for sharing

Got it in one

That's all down to the designer of the original piece. I only had to improvise here & there to make it safer for combat with LARP weapons, so I can't take much credit for it.

Thanks The fictional setting of the Conan books & movies is a lost era of humanity, the Hyborian Age, around 40,000 to 10,000 years BC. The costume & set design of the 1982 movie captures this idea exceptionally, so I tried to follow the primitive feel as much as I could.

Just finished this armour for a customer, based on some background character kit from the original Conan the Barbarian movie.

Thanks Douglas - steal away The knife is actually a foam & latex one for LARP, looks pretty realistic in the pic I guess!

Made this scabbard for a new dagger I picked up recently. Weathered & beaten look is intentional - I like my LARP stuff to look lived-in.

My favourite tool - I call it the RockMaster 2000

The person it's made for is quite a bit bigger than my extremely slim plastic model, so the buckle will end up in a comfortable position. And thank you

Just finished this Spartacus shoulder armour for a friend. He has the abs for it, I don't It's not 100% accurate to the one used in the show, but it's good enough. Did all the distressing with a rock, and finished with a mix of Tandy black pro dye and Eco-Flo acorn brown antique.

I will make sure to put "fantasy" in the title of all my posts from now on, just for you

Fair enough - I make stuff for LARP where nobody really cares about historical accuracy. The fact that it was made in 2012 is the main thing that makes it not medieval though

Made a scabbard & belt for my LARP sword. Worked out OK I think, but I'll make more effort to embellish the next one. Fit is slightly tight, so I'll just allow a little more room for the sword next time. Nothing a little talc won't fix though. The belt is a double wrap style, which distributes the weight of the sword right around the waist, rather than having it pulling down on one side - more of an issue with metal swords I imagine, but this one still looks cool when it's on BTW those big domed studs on the belt ends are covering up nickel snap fasteners which looked a bit out of place.