LeatherWerks

I have been trying to replace some of my early purchased hand tools mostly Tandy brand, with higher quality tools. There was a time when I thought high quality meant CS Osbourne. Today, I"m not so sure that remains true. I am in the market for an edge beveler and wanted to get some feedback on what others feel are the best brands available. Also, it appears there are no real standards when it comes to sizing between companies. What is a #1 edger with one company might be totally different with another company. I need a edger mostly for edging belts and holsters. Also, it would be great to have a edger that would work well on tight corners like belt slots. Thanks, Steve

Has anyone ever seen this thread? It is used in Bianchi holsters and also in the holsters John makes at Frontier Gun Leather. Steve

Kevin, I guess I wasn't good at explaining my sewing method but your explanation helps a lot. I was not locking the stitch at the start, just at the end and probably not correctly. When you get completely around the belt, I guess you end your stitching in the last hole you made while the machine was in reverse and the do two more reverse stitches to lock the end. Steve

I have a cobra I bought last February at a trade show in Arizona. Quite an upgrade from my old Tippmann Boss. I know there are several members using cobra 4's on this forum. Can anyone explain the correct procedure to lock a stitch? Here is what I have been doing. Let's say it's a belt I'm sewing. I start someplace near the buckle, a place not too noticeable and start sewing. I continue until I get back to whereo I started. I sew back through the first and then one more hole forward. I then reverse and sew back at least one hole. Is this method correct or should I have ask Cobra Steve this question before I left town with the machine Thanks, Steve

Mike, when you say, 'punch a hole in the leather,' what size hole are you speaking of. Thanks, Steve

Thanks Eric, I'm going to give your method a try. Hey, nice looking work on your Facebook page. Steve

So, I bought some stainless steel snap springs from High Desert Leather so I could try my hand at making a Thumb Break style holster. The springs have two holes in them, one near each end for a rivet I assume. I know a line 24 snap goes in there somewhere but I'm a bit unsure how. Do I need to drill another hole in the spring to install the line 24 snap or am I just missing something? Here's a link of what the snap spring looks like: http://www.highdesertleather.com/id74.html Thanks, Steve

I saw a holster a few days ago that had some type of plastic sight channel sewed into the holster. Normally I fashion a dowel or something, tape it around the barrel and form my sight channel that way. However, on some high-end holsters, namely Mill Sparks, I saw what appeared to be a sewed in sight channel. Does anyone have a source for whatever is being used? Thanks, Steve

Okay, I'm brewing a batch of Vinegaroon per the instruction I found somewhere on this forum. Everything appears to be going fine with the batch. Now, being a very impatient person, I decided after about 18 hours to dye a scrap of leather to see if it actually works; it does and I'm impressed with the color. Now, maybe everything has it drawbacks, maybe Vinegaroon has some as well. How do you get the vinegar smell to go away? Remember, I told you I'm impatient, and only gave the leather a couple of hours before I gave it the smell test. My question is this, will the vinegar smell go away, and if it does, how long does it normally take? Also, I read on this forum that you also need to use a baking soda solution to stop what I guess is the chemical reaction on the leather. Does anyone have more info about that? I make concealed carry holsters and before I dye a batch of holsters and send them out, I'd like to be assured my customers won't be strapping on a holster that smells like a salad bar. Thanks in advance, Steve

I've been making a few holsters now and getting better at it. One thing I wish was better is the finish on the inside of the holster. I don't line my holsters, so what should I do? Is these some chemical/product that I need to apply to come up with a better finish? Thanks, Steve

Wiz, someone came in behind me and re-treaded the machine but missed one critical area, the takeup lever. I should have looked closer at the threading before I posted. Steve

Yesterday, I used my Cobra 4 to do some minor stitching, worked just fine. This morning I was getting ready to stitch up a belt and suddenly, I have problems. The machine appears to be threaded properly, the needle is installed correctly, the bobin is installed correctly and turning counterclockwise when I pull thread from it. The problem is that it does nothing but punch needle holes. Neither the top or bottom thread stays in the leather. Has anyone seen a problem like this? Thanks, Steve

Thanks for replying to my thread, I thought I ask a stupid question. Here's what happened. When I dye black, no problem, if it doesn't cover, I just dye some more. However, when I'm using brown, sometimes I get areas that just won't take the dye...very frustrating after all the work it takes to get to the dying point. I used Frebings deglazer on one belt and it dried the belt so much that it actually cracked...guessing it removed most of the oils from the leather.....a learning process. I ordered some Frebings dye prep today hoping it will solve my problems when using other than black dye Does anyone know about this product? I've heard you can make it yourself but I'm just a marginal leatherworker and not even a chemist. Steve

I making a belt, two layers, it's currently glued, edges sanded, and I'll stitch it up before staining. What is the next step? I will be dying the belt dark brown and what to know if I should use Neetsfoot oil on this piece before, or after I stain it. Belts I've made in the past have developed some minor cracking over time and I'm trying to avoid this on this belt. Any help would be appreciated. Steve

I've posted some threads regarding the final finishing of various leather projects. I've had some great and interesting responses but, it appears that an airbrush and compressor should be the next tool in my leather tool bag. The problem is, I've never used one, I don't even know the difference between a single and dual airbrush, but I do know that I can lay down a better finish with a can of paint than I can with a paint brush, hence the apparent need for a airbrush. I always buy the best leather tools I can afford, but I don't always need the best available. What I need is something that will spray dyes, finishes and what ever else leather workers spray. Can anyone suggest brands, features, etc., that I should look at when considering a airbrush system? Also, I might be interested in something someone has for sale. Thanks, Steve

Thanks to everyone who replied to my request for sealer suggestions. I'm going to try them all and see what works best for me. I'm really interested in trying the 'Mop &Glow' method. Steve

Just completed a Advenger style holster and was wondering what I could use to get a matt finish on it. It's dyed black with Fiebings USMC Black. I just tried Tan-Kote on a scrap piece of leather and thought the finish was too glossy as well as showing brush marks when applied. All I really want to do it prevent the black dye from rubbing off onto clothing. What do you folks suggest? Thanks, Steve

This item was sold on Ebay, thanks to everyone who looked. Steve

I'm looking to expand my holster business and would like to purchase multiple Blue Guns. I'm interested in most of totay's popular models. PM me if you have any for sale. Thanks, Steve Nelson LeatherWorks, LLC

Okay, it's made of aluminum but there is no spring. Just ordered one from Tippmann. Now, I guess one end of the spring fits below the pin and the other side rests against the case. I guess it will make better sense when I see the spring. Steve

I've watched some videos online and my Tippmann Boss must not be adjusted properly or something. When sewing, the top thread has a tendency to not stay tight like you might expect a regular sewing machine to. I've attached a couple of pictures showing what the machine is doing, and the second picture shows what I expect the machine should be doing. The stitch itself is fine, just the fact that the thread doesn't stay taught is the issue. Any thoughts? Steve

Folks, you have to be a lawyer to navigate this forum. Last time I tried to sell this machine, it was someone who thought the time stamp on their PM was before the other persons. It seems that was I need to do is post this on ebay, charge what the machine is worth, charge for shipping and be done with it. I was hoping someone who wanted to move up from hand stitching would get the opportunity at a reasonable price but, the lawyers don't seem to want that. So, consider this notification that the machine is no longer available. You want it, check ebay inn the coming days. Steve

Folks, my offer to ship and insure this machine applies to the lower 48 US States. I can't afford to ship this machine to China at this price. Thanks, Steve