LeatherWerks

I bought some Pull the Dot snaps from a company called KnifeKits and am having a problem getting these snaps to work. I've watched a YouTube video by the Sailrite company showing the installation process at least 10 times. I'm pretty sure my installation procedure is correct. After installing these snaps I can't get them to snap. I even got really upset and pounded the H*** out of one and it still wouldn't snap! Anyone ever have this problem. Is it possible that the studs KnifeKits sent me were line 24 studs and not true Pull the Dot studs, or are they the same? Frustrated in Missouri, Steve

Try knifekits.com. Steve

I want to use 'Pull the Dot' snaps on a 1911 IWB holster I'm making. I found the snaps at Springfield Leather. So, the pieces are the Cap, the Stud and the Socket. What I would like to do is secure the Pull the Dot socket to the T-nut using a small screw. This might actually be the way its done but having never built this type of holster, I just don't know. What I do know is that on line 24 snaps, the screw that would fit inside the socket would have to be fairly small to fit inside and allow the snap to close. Can anyone shed some light on how this is normally done? Thanks, Steve

Okay, I have a line on the T-nuts thanks to Bob, but now I have another question. I want to use 'Pull the Dot' snaps on this holster. I found them at Springfield Leather. So, the pieces are the Cap, the Stud and Socket. What I would like to do is secure the Pull the Dot socket to the T-nut using a small screw. This might actually be the way its done but having never built this type of holster, I just don't know. What I do know is that on line 24 snaps, the screw that would fit inside the socket would have to be fairly small to fit inside and allow the snap to close. Can anyone shed some light on how this is normally done? Thanks, Steve

Thanks Bob, I appreciate your response and the fact I can find them locally. Steve

I have a Crossbreed holster and the belt clips are attached by a screw that threads into a specialty fitting which has a couple of prongs that dig into the leather and hold it secure. I have no idea what they call this fitting, or where I might obtain them. I was at Tandy Leather recently and they had no idea what I was talking about. Does anyone know what these fittings are called and where I might order them from? I'm going to use them on a 1911 IWB holster that I'm making. Thanks, Steve

No question about Steve's service. I have his Cobra 4 machine and service is the best. By the way, how much did it cost to ship that beast to Florida? Steve

I'm at the point I want or need a clicker. There are options, Steve at the Leather Machine Company sells a 10 ton clicker at a decent price. Tippmann makes one that appears to be much smaller and is air operated. I could use either, I have both regular as well as 3 phase electrical service in my shop as well as an air compressor.. Steve wants 3K for his clicker, Bob Tippmann wants 1500.00 for his. If price wasn't the deciding factor, what would be the best choice? I would be clicking out gun holsters 7 to 8 ounce leather and wallet parts out of much thinner leather. Thanks, Steve

Okay, thanks for all the suggestions, I'll see what I can come up with. Steve

I use to have an airbrush until I tried to shoot resolene through it. Now it don't work so well. Steve

I've been trying to dye some belts what I call light brown. I'm using Fiebings Light Brown dye but the color comes out way too dark, almost dark brown. Should I be thinning the dye or something? If that's the case, what would I use as a thinner. Thanks, Steve

I guess if your sew line was real close to the edge of the belt it might work. I do my stitching on a 441 clone and tend to stitch about 1/8 inch from the edge. The glue seems to keep that loose edge from coming apart. I'll try a test piece and see how it works using both methods. Steve

What I plan to do based on Cyberthrashers' recommendation is to use two pieces of leather for a total of 8 ounces. I will glue the two pieces together and after cleaning up the edges, stitch around the entire belt. The stitching tends to make a belt stiffer so I might try the Kiwi Camp Dry Mink Oil to see if that helps. Steve

I've been ask to make some belts for a customer that I have done work for before. This project is for 4 belts. Standard stuff, but different than how I normally make belts. This person want these belts to be 'softer' and more 'flexible' that what I usually make. Anyway, I typically use a 8 or 9 ounce strip and then line it with 2 to 3 ounce leather. This results in a really stiff belt. What would give me softer and more flexible results? Should I use thinner leather or is there some treatment that would soften the leather? Thanks, Steve

Thanks Bob. I guess when I got the other items from you I should have ordered the tension spring as well. Is it something you have?

I recently purchased the Singer 29K53 for pretty cheap. I needed to get some bobbins and needles plus some #69 thread. Now that I have all of those items, it's time to get this machine stitching. After threading the machine I stitched a thin piece of leather and got fair results. I tried to adjust the tension on the top thread but as things often happen....I screwed it up. Now it ain't stitching so good. I was wondering if someone could give me some advice on getting this machine back in stitching order.It would appear that the bobbin side thread looks okay, it's the top thread that is out of wack. Thanks, Steve

Okay, I called Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing Machine and he had all the parts that I needed or just wanted to replace. Extra bobbins, a new foot, threading rod, needles and or course some thread. Prices we really reasonable. If anyone needs 29K parts, Toledo Sewing Machine is the place to go. Steve

Okay, I bought this machine, Gave $200.00 for it. It seems to work okay but I haven't actually sewn anything yet. It is missing the rod that pushes the thread from the top down to the needle. I don't know what I could find to get the thread down to the needle, any suggestions? Also, does anyone actually make/have parts for these machines? I guess that's a slim chance since this machine was built in 1927. Anyway, thanks to all that responded to this thread, I appreciate the help. Steve

Okay, sounds like it's workable but not the best situation. If this machine works well and the person will part with it for 200.00 or so, I'll make the deal Steve

Found a 29K Singer that I can get for a really good price. The problem is that it's just the head, no table or foot peddle to run the machine like I've seen on other 29K machines. Will the machine still work without the table or would it be a real pain to operate? Thanks, Steve

Wiz, I changed to Chrome and everything is fine. IE10 won't allow (at least on my machine) a hard return in the topic window. Steve

I haven't found the model number yet. I understand it was build around 1927. Wiz, thanks for the in-depth reply on the machine. Another question which is off topic. I recently upgraded to a Windows 8 machine and within this forum, the 'ENTER' key doesn't work. That's why I don't sign off with my name. Anyone have a fix for that problem? Steve

I found a Singer 29K recently for $300. I haven't actually seen the machine yet but plan to in the coming days. I know nothing about this type of machine other than what I've read here and some You Tube videos I've seen. Can anyone tell me if this is a good machine to have and what to look for when I go see it. It won't be my only machine, I have a Cobra 4 and a Tippmann Boss but this what I expect everyone calls a patcher. It appears that there is no table with the machine.

I can't tell for sure but in the pictures I'd check the threading first. Here's a video that explains the threading process in detail. Again if all else fails, call Steve. Steve Nelson

I did it once and posted a message on the forum. It was a bit embarrassing. Call Steve at the Leather Machine Company. He'll likely have you up and running in a few minutes. 1-866-962-9880. Even if you didn't buy it from him, he will help you out. Steve