Trevor
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Posts posted by Trevor
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Hey there D. Try calling Blue Whitson 021736777 from Blockhouse bay, Auckland and he may be able to either fix and or supply parts. I think from memory that Texon in Onehunga here have still got the BUSM agency so that may be worth a try as well. Give me a call sometime if you need me to do some phoning around for you. Also you are welcome to come and use my press anytime. Cheers TK
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looks like a juki 563 or a Seiko to me
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Yes if you tie the knot while its on one side then pull it inside the leather to hide it. Reef knot and square knot.. same thing. Right over left..... then left over right. Its for tying two threads or rope or whatever of the same thickness together.(more or less).
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Hey redcent
You can choose to hide the finished stitches in a few ways I guess. Most of the time I do the backstitch for 3 or 4 then finish with 3 or 4 and that is the common-as-muck way of doing it I believe.
If I was doing a nice holster like you describe, where the ends are hidden do the "reef knot" on the inside tie it tight and cut and melt. That will never come un-done unless the thread breaks or is worn.
The other way that comes to mind is where you would finish with your machine stitch then put your hand-stitch needles on and start the "Saddle stitch" by hand. While you are passing the threads from side to side, tie the passing threads in a knot so that it can be pulled into the stitch hole without being seen. That is as they cross.
I don't think that you can get away without some kind of backstitch where you need it "NOT" to come un-done. If you do it correctly by laying your thread properly it will look good. Remember to melt the thread not burn it. I make lots and lots of leather stuff and generally use the backstitch method. You can cut the ends off tightly with sharp scissors and then melt the tiny ends that are still visible. Good luck and Im sure you will find a happy place with your sewing.
Cheers
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Hi Andrew. These are thigh straps for my customer about a year ago. The edge is seen on the two pics and the back on this one. Its quite easy to do. Have you tried this Andrew??
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Did you mean like this??
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Hi there.
This was my attempt to make a saddleback tote bag look a like. I changed a few things and used all brass hardware. lined the lid and installed a zipper inside as well. I also did a couple of smaller ones which are ok but need a little improvement. Overall quite happy with the result. Thanks for looking.
Cheers
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Hey LOBO,
Looks like you could do with a couple of slot punches for that job. Would make your life a lot easier when you cut the slots.
Nice work keep it up
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If the leather is glued down first, then sanded and finished, then the sewing position really doesn't matter. although the closer the better. I usually run the edge groover (Line maker) around the crease when done as it makes for a nice clean corner.
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I use this method as well sometimes. I then tie a reef knot in the threads and pull really tight. Cut ends and melt.
Reef knot: Left over right then right over left. cheers
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Hi.If you tighten the screw ones too much they will shear off. I always use the ones that hammer together and they will never come out. Much stronger I say. Tandy is very expensive I must say.Cheers
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Hey D. Nice work my dear. And I guess a little help from Ivan. I guess that you have reached the pinnacle of leatherwork. We can call you a saddler from now on girl. I hear Glen came to see you on his bike. Ha ha he told me he cruised up there one day for a delivery. Give me a call sometime regards TK
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Hey there Hunio.
Did you stitch the brown lining to the zip piece when you did the sewing to put the zip in? or is it just glued on somehow.
cant see that in the pics.
By the way nice work mate. Your mother will like it Im sure.
Cheers Trevor
"Way Down Under"
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Nice machines. Love to own both of these but......HOW MUCH??? many $$$$$ I suspect from DA
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My two cents worth. Get yourself an electric drill and a vice to secure it in. Next get a round disk sanding abor from your local hardware store. Also get some fine sandpaper disks and some rougher ones and put the paper into the abor. With the whole thing mounted in the vice securely turn on the drill and lock the switch, then with the curve drawn on the leather and a basic cut done first to remove the bulk of the edge, sand the edge until the leather is perfectly round and smooth. You will find that its easier with heavier leather. Also heaps of dust. but you will end up with a very nice corner after some practice. Hint: Get an old vacuum cleaner from the op shop and mount the hose next to the disk to collect the dust. Use the heavy grit for big jobs and the fine for anything delicate. Cheers TK
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yeah that would seem to make some sense. The switching of the press is done using the handles that have little "micro" switches in them. Did you end up getting the press ?? or at least going to where its at and trying it out before you purchase?? I would certainly do that at least. Check the cutting height and the head height before you start.
Good luck
TRK
"way down Under"
Just found this.
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Hi there Wolfe.I looked up and found a picture of a Model A and it looks OK. I think you mean "HYDRAULIC clicker model A USMC" . It has hydraulic oil and its got two hand operation. That's good so you don't cut off your hands when clicking. Good luck
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Yes. The needle is still well buried into the leather when you are about a third of the way upwards. Never turn your work until that time. and remember always turn using the needle as a pivot point. So don't pull the needle all the way up then decide to turn the work.Cheers
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Now my 2 cents worth on lining belts.
you can line one or several belts together and save your leather. By this I mean that laying 3 or 4 strips of finished belts together on a single piece of leather, then gluing the whole lot at once then when you cut them to separate you waste very little. I mostly use chrome leather which is cheaper and easier to use than making a belt out of two pieces of veg leather unless the customer wishes of course. without splitting you could end up with a belt that is 7 to 10mm in thickness which is very thick indeed.
Once glued and pressed down firmly and allowed to dry, I trim with a knife or sharp leather scissors. then I get the edge and grind (or sand) in the direction so that the chrome is on the top and the veg is below which if done correctly will kind of cut the edge and trim it beautifully all around the belt. This may take some practice, Make sure you have a dust collector of some description or your workshop will fill with leather dust. Then turn the belt over and trim the veg edge with an edge groove tool. Or you can grind or sand that side as well. this will give your belts a very professional edge which can be dip dyed or edge dyed easily. Sanding leather is a way of getting a smooth edge to any veg leather items that you make. Sew the finished belt when its all dyed up and maybe apply one more coat of gloss or sealer to the finished belt stitching and all. Attach the buckle and keeper, maker stamp and size then its ready to sell.
Good luck
Cheers Leatherman
"Way down under"
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Hi there Deloid.
Here is my two cents worth. Only ever turn your work (that is when its under the foot of the machine) when the stitch has been formed not before. That is, when the needle is about one third of the way up its stroke from the bottom. so... if you stitch then turn, stitch then turn, you will get every stitch to lock to the bottom thread and not miss any.
ie the stitch is formed on the up-stroke of the needle, when the thread stays stationary in the groove (of the needle)and the movement of the needle upwards causes a small loop to form, and the hook (with the other bobbin thread aboard) spins around at that precise moment, and catches the loop and forms the stich. All in a split second. That's why the timing must be spot on to accurately form a stitch. If the timing is out you will get the hook catching partially and your sewing will be disrupted and you will even get missed stitches.
Setting the timing yourself can be done but its quite difficult. Knowing the settings is one thing but understanding them is another. Sometimes its easier to get a sewing mechanic to set up the machine for you and after that don't touch it. There are on most good machines many different settings and screws to adjust every part of the timing. un-doing any of these in the wrong order may put out some other settings and bugger up the whole thing. I cannot express loud enough that the timing on a machine is everything. If its not done right and accurate then your machine will sew like a dog. Nothing you do will make it sew no matter what you do.
Hope this helps
Cheers leatherman
"way down under"
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Hi there Najram.
Good to see you have made a decision.
I think by looking at the motor you could probably just buy another motor that is single phase and throw it on. Make sure if you do that the mounting bracket is the same. It will be bigger that's all. You may have to get a high current fuse put in at home to handle the additional current on start up that's all. If you live in an old home you may have to wire in a new cable (to you outlet) as the extra high start current may damage the wiring as well.
You make sure that you keep your fingers out of the way and build that linkage.
Good luck mate. happy clicking
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Hi there,
I recall seeing a few years back a new machine that had come into the shop where I get my needles etc. and decided to take a couple of pics.
I think this may be the equivalent to the heavy Adler 230 and the singer.
These cost an arm and a leg to buy here so I hate to think what they would cost brand new.
Cheers
Trevor "Way Down Under"
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Do you mean this stuff.... http://www.westernworldsaddlery.com/contents/en-us/d11_Leather_Care.html
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Hi there Najram. There seems like a few people that would like to see you buy this thing. I have a Hydraulic clicking press (Atom 18 ton) that I bought second hand and its the best thing I ever did. Its got a huge flat piece of Aluminum under the head which allows me to cut big items etc. This was supplied by the guy who was the dealer. Its an asset to my company and the only thing I replace is the little micro switches in the handles which crap out every so often. There must be places that sell second hand leather machinery where you are and the only thing I can say is to look around and buy good. Are you running a business or a museum?? ha ha. your increased leatherwork with a good clicker will pay for it in no time. Take a loan or borrow. I run a small business under my Home in Auckland New Zealand so Im not that far away and know what you are up against. If you are worried about single phase not a problem. A good engineer will change a motor for you in no time and select the same or similar HP output that you require. Here are some pics of my press for you to look at. This has been changed to single phase. Good luck mate Cheers TRK
Weekend Bag
in Satchels, Luggage and Briefcases
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Very nice Reginald.
How did you line the bag ?? or is it unlined? I think you'll find a few copycats on this site will want a bag like that in there collection.
I too would like to copy. Did you hand sew or machine??
Well done and cheers for sharing.