Eirewolf

I really appreciate all the input, everyone. Please forgive my newbie questions; I don't know much about the tools and I don't have anyone nearby I can learn from. When a description says that an edge beveler does a 3/32" cut, does that mean it's for 6-oz leather? I'm a bit confused because it seems there isn't necessarily a standard across brands as to what thickness a #2 size is for, for example. I mainly need something for a rounded edge (front and back) on 7-8oz leather. (Occasionally for 4-5oz.) I'm willing to spend good money if I know a tool is going to give good results and last a long time without needing professional sharpening or a lot of fuss. (I don't have a workshop with power tools even if I knew how to do it myself.) I watched the video on Ron's Tools site, and I see one thing I've been doing wrong – he moves the butt of the tool up and down as well as back and forth, and I haven't been doing it that way. Could that be why my bevelers have been going dull so quickly? And he uses a power buffer, but does that do the same thing as a strop with jeweler's rouge? Thanks again for the help.

Thank you Fred and Bruce! How do people feel about TandyPro® Tools Edge Bevelers? I'm wondering if I should use a coupon and try it out.

Hi all! I am looking for recommendations for good quality edge bevelers that I won't have to replace frequently. I like a rounded edge, and I'm usually using 7-8 oz veg tan (sometimes 4-5 oz). The photos show what bevelers I've used (and eventually struggled to use), and how I strop them (400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and jeweler's rouge). I want a tool that will arrive sharp, stay sharp (with stropping), and that will give me a nice clean edge without a struggle. Also, what sizes are best for 7-8 oz and 4-5 oz leather? And should I be stropping differently? Thanks in advance!

Hey, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've looked around and can't seem to find an answer to my question. I'm making a large tote bag out of 3.5-oz ... not sure exactly what kind of leather it is, but it's not dyed through. It's dark brown, but the cut edges are pale and I don't like how that looks. I don't have edge paint and don't really want to wait for an order to arrive.... Has anyone ever used regular acrylic paint? (I have a bunch of Liquitex acrylic.) How is it different? I've never used edge paint and don't know much about it. I'll order some if it's really necessary, and would appreciate recommendations for what would work best here. (I'm in the U.S..) Thanks in advance!

Thanks so much everyone! I will try the isopropyl alcohol. If anyone else has experience using it to cut dyes (or has more suggestions for other alternatives), I'd love to hear about it!

Thanks everyone! Klean-Strip Fuel denatured alcohol is what I used to use, but alas, 'tis nowhere to be found 'round these parts nowadays. Is 90%+ isopropyl alcohol very similar to that when cutting dyes?

I ran into this same problem recently! I am about to run out of denatured alcohol, and I can't find it locally. Tandy won't even sell Fiebing's dye reducer to California anymore. Please help! What can I use as a substitute for denatured alcohol? (I usually cut dyes 50% with it.) I usually use Angelus dyes, Fiebing's dyes, or Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes.

I know this is an older post, but I just had to say... WOW, Leonguaranipy, those are stunning pieces! Yours are gorgeous too, GirlFromScandinavia!

Thanks for the ideas, everyone! I appreciate it.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just moved into a new house, and I finally have a room all to myself to make into a studio. I'm trying to brainstorm ideas for how to hang my leather hides so that I can easily see them all (just the pre-dyed ones, not the natural veg-tan; I don't really need to see that all the time & will probably leave it rolled the way it came). I have some chrome-tanned, as well as some pre-dyed veg-tan double shoulders. Most are 5-oz or lighter weight. I have limited space, as the room is not very large (it used to be a kid's bedroom). I like JLSleather's idea of hanging them over large dowels. I did something similar in my old studio in the closet (but the closet in the new place is too small for that). I might be able to hang them from the ceiling -- but how do I know if the ceiling will support the weight? If not that, I will have to have the husband help me build some kind of rig -- but it's got to be compact so it doesn't overwhelm the room. If anyone has more ideas for how to maximize a small space and display my hides for easy use, I'd love to hear them! Thanks in advance.

Your work blows my mind. Amazing!

I'm fairly new to leatherwork myself -- only been doing it for 3.5 years. (Yes, I still consider myself a newbie as I'm having to learn things as I go.) But I hope I can be of some help. The 3 dye brands you mentioned are also the ones I am familiar with. I believe you are right that denatured alcohol is good for cutting Angelus dyes, and possibly Fiebings as well, though I'm not sure on that. I don't know anything about oxalic acid, but perhaps my reply here will bump your post to the top so someone with more experience will see it.

Thank you! I used Dr. Jackson's leather conditioner, and mixed it with a little bit of the dye I was using. It didn't seem to mix very well, as it retained a lot of little lumps no matter how much I tried to mix the dye in. Next time I will try Bicks 4. That's what the guys at Springfield Leather use in some of their videos too.

Dwight, thank you so much for the thoughtful reply. It makes sense that I might need to cut the dye and sealer, but dangit, I wish they would say so on the bottle! It might have saved me a lot of time. I have some denatured alcohol to mix with the Angelus dyes... What kind of thinner should I use for the Fiebings Pro Oil Dye? Should I still use the conditioner (and if so, when in the process)? Will that have any kind of negative effect on the sealer? Thanks again!

Again, thank you for the reply... but I don't believe it is the color itself rubbing off. It appears to be the finish. As I explained, this happened with a blue cuff as well, so switching to vinegaroon is not the solution I need. What I need is a durable finish.