ouchmyfinger

just got my artisan toro 4000, want to make a few guitar straps. is it possible to stitch these on the machine? also how do i slick the edges and make a nice professional product, i will be using this same technique for belts and other items i assume so is there somewhere to get pointers or a book so i don't have to keep bothering you guys this week lol

im not that familiar with the gator tanning process but i did ask someone that only sells exotic skins about getting things that are the natural color of the animal. he said that most processes change the natural color of the skin and then they dye it back to match or whatever color they want. i don't remember what animal i was asking about but this may seem to be your problem of finding that darker color gator. or i could fed bs and am now looking foolish but i haven't heard otherwise yet and its been a few years.

google for the ostrich market, they are here in florida somewhere, they have everything so if you don't see it on the website call him, they will have it.

is there a member here that does maker stamps, even the delrin ones would be fine as long as they are long enough. i had one made before but it was too short and once i gripped it my hand was flush with the top part so i would nick my hand constantly, which is pretty funny since my username matches this topic lol i would rather give back to the forum community than randomly buy one online thanks

long story short, the mechanic swung by today and got my machine running. he said that i did not have a feed dog on this machine and i should order one and the plate for it. he doesn't know anything about leatherwork but is wonders with a sewing machine. should i get them? also now that i have a machine where do i learn how to use it and what all the different feet are for? any good websites and finally, i have heard people saying that they use a waxed or lubricated thread and also that they have pots on the machine that does this? what is that and is that something else i should be looking into? thanks

i called a sewing machine mechanic friend of mine and he finally made it by today, he had a lot of minor adjustments to make and now it works like a dream. i haven't really got to do anything with it but i appreciate your help and it didn't cost me too much to get it up and running. i really appreciate your help

I left the machine with the wheel being hard to turn. I stepped back up to it and it was easy to turn again lol. Uuuuuugh. I spun the wheel many times and everything went well except the needle is still going down into the foots hole but on the way up the needle is either being pulled out towards me or the foot is leaving earlier than the needle. Is that even possible. There is no thread being used during my tinkering.

well here is where I'm at now. i talked to steve today as well and i had to adjust the cam behind the stitch length lever from the back. the first time the machine was going in reverse when it was not in reverse so i moved it around 180 degrees and tinkered with it from there. the needle was coming down and the inside presser foot was moving back too early and the needle was trying to squeeze its way out of the inside presser foot hole/horseshoe thing. i assume i can still tinker with this to get it correct. main concern as of now. the hand wheel is getting hard to turn once in a great while, maybe every 10 rotations, i disconnected the belt and took the needle out to ensure that i wasn't getting friction from that as i was moving the material during my adjustments and it continued to still happen i called a repair guy i knew to see if he could swing by and haven't heard back yet, i have also oiled the machine as per the instructions any ideas? i was hoping to have this operational to get some work done tomorrow thanks

im a sewing machine rookie but pretty good with figuring things out, could you be a little more rookie friendly. here is what i understand from your post. the inside foot it the foot that the needle goes down through correct? where i am lost is the control arm part. and i am sure when i know what that is and loosen the screws i will be able to figure out my next question which is how do i move one part of the machine and then the other? i assume this screw will keep certain parts from reciprocating. also it was set up for thick leather when i received it so how is it possible that all of a sudden it is too low for thinner material, i figured i would have the opposite problem of it not coming down far enough thanks for your help, i really need to get this thing going today

closer analyzing using just the hand wheel....... it is pushing the material in the correct direction and then pushing it back where it was how do i fix this

Hey everyone, i just got my machine and i was trying to do some tension adjustments and everything was going fine. I was about to maybe stitch a project with it and i waked up to the machine to try a sample again and it decided to not move the material anymore. I have tried leathers of different thickness and also minor adjustments on the pressure foot with no different results. i have also tried reverse and making the stitch length longer with no results, it just moves up and down. it seems like everything is operating like it should, there are no parts not moving the way they should that i can see any ideas

i switched needles and went to try a sample and now it just goes up and down and doesn't move forwards or in reverse. any ideas

i just tried on a fresh piece of veg tan and its not as bad but you can still see the leather ripping a little from hole to hole on the bottom, i also tried flipping it and sewing flesh side up and flesh side down on a piece of 7 oz and its not as bad as far as blowout is concerned and i did not have to make any adjustments to keep the stitching meeting in the middle of the work new question- when i try to backstitch i end up getting the bobbin thread crows nest thing going and when i cut the threads i have 3 coming up from the bobbin, when i cut them i can pull one free easily and it is just about 4 inches long and string number 3 is just the end of this one that i have pulled out, so i am getting my normal bobbin thread and 1 small loop in the shape of a U with the tops coming out of the needle plate thanks in advance

i just received my machine from steve at cobra, i couldn't get the class 4 i wanted but i needed a machine that could at least do guitar straps and belts. I called asking about his flatbed class 18 i think it was and told him i just couldn't stretch for the class 4 but needed a machine asap. He still made my dreams come true lol, he had just received a used artisan toro 4000 and before i knew it i was sitting at home waiting for it to get here lol. it came with some extra feet, needles, bobbins, dvd, etc.... well 2 hours of assembly and reading and i was slowly learning what is basically my first sewing machine, at least first one that can handle a variety of thickness so i knew i would need to learn the adjustments more so than the singer i had a while ago that was not very good. it came with a sample of 3/4" leather already sewn and i need to knock out some belts and guitar straps so i put in a sample piece top and bottom that is about 10 oz total thickness, i didn't want to thrown in a 5oz after a 3/4" i thought it would be smart working my way down and learning as i go. at first i could see the top thread on the bottom and i followed the instructions and adjusted the top tension. now i am at the stage in the pics, finally here is my questions 1st?-there is some blowout on the back, yes it is old leather and probably too dry. and a new needle or what i assume is a new needle since it was in the machine when i received it and it looks new. any other ideas on how to reduce blowout -2nd ?- how can i tell if the top tension and bottom tension are too tight? i am getting the stitch in the middle of the leather and it is not showing on the top or bottom but i think my blowout may be coming from the leather ripping but probably not, my top thread is slightly sinking into the surface of the leather and coming out very very close to flush with the surface leather thanks also if there is anything else you can think of that i may need to know please chime in, I'm a sewing machine rookie and practicing all weekend so i can knock out some stuff this week and make a couple demos to send to potential clients so my learning curve and time aren't lining up with life well right now lol

i had a few people answer some of my questions recently and they helped me knock this out just in time for my girlfriends grandfathers funeral. i wanted to post pics and if anyone else would like my pattern for it just ask, i didn't get to take pictures of it till i went back to visit for a memorial thing this past weekend so here they are

Thanks. When I googled it I read that it was fire resistant and good for outdoor use. Maybe it was coincidence.

a buddy of mine uses tex 90 thread for his upholstery work...should i be using tex thread for belts, guitar straps, etc, things that will be used a lot and outdoors. what things will i need to know about this thread also? thanks

Pete should have it Monday if he has not recieved it yet. Pm him Thanks.

Yes I only have the maul and swivel knife left. Pm me if your interested. Thanks

pm sent

I have some new interiors that i am not going to use for a while so I'm putting them up for sale Womens purse interior, cost $40 (black) ladies clutch wallet, i believe this was around $25 (natural color) Notepad holder KANGAROO- cost $14 (brown) purse with clip KANGAROO- cost $24 (brown) Mens wallet with security flap-cost $20 (brown) brown bifold wallet- i think this one was $17 (brown) will sell all for 100 shipped pm me if interested

ALL THE TOOLS ARE SOLD I STILL HAVE THE BARRY KING SWIVEL KNIFE AND BLADE............$40 SHIPPED AND THE 16 OZ MAUL..................................................................................$40 SHIPPED THANKS EVERYONE

i have ordered tools from him before but i do believe these are the tools from the recommended size list for small to medium projects, the border tool and basket weave stamp are not in that set and i think they include some bar grounders and a camo and 1 more veiner but i already had a set of bar grounders that are a little larger that i like and i rarely used the camo his basket weaves are top notch, id love to keep these but its just one of those times i need to come up with some quick cash, i will do a reorder from barry at the end of may when i get my check from the military finally

sold

JUST TRYING TO COVER UNFORSEEN EXPENSES, HERE IS A LIST OF WHAT I HAVE (for easy reference i will list how much he charges for each one next to the tools) 12 SEED FLOWER CENTER $30 2 LIFTERS $25 each 2 HORIZONTAL LINED THUMBPRINTS $30 each CENTER SHADER $30 LEAF LINER $30 2 CHECKERED BEVELERS $25 each 1 LINED AND SCALLOPED VEINER $30 1 LINED VEINER $25 2 MULESFEET $30 each 1 BASKETWEAVE $50 shown in pic 1 BORDER $35 shown in pic 1 16 OZ MAUL, USED FOR 2 PROJECTS $55 1 SWIVEL KNIFE USED FOR 1 PROJECT $45 (barry king knife and blade) 1 BEADER BLADE ON TANDY KNIFE, USED ON ONE PROJECT $25 blade only, will include tandy swivel knife THATS EXACTLY $575 BUCKS WORTH OF BARRY KING GOODNESS, WILL SELL FOR 450 SHIPPED OBO, I WOULD PREFER NOT TO BREAK UP UNLESS YOU GUYS CLAIM CERTAIN ONES ON THE THREAD AND I CAN SELL AND SHIP THEM ALL IN ONE OR TWO TRIPS PM ME YOUR NUMBER AND ILL CALL YOU IF YOU ARE INTERESTED FOR A QUICKER TRANSACTION, CAN SHIP IMMEDIATELY I REALLY DONT WANT TO GET RID OF THEM BUT I HAVE TO COME UP WITH SOME QUICK CASH