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Hi Nicole, I did it all myself using iWeb. I have been trying various options for the pop-ups but haven't found one that does exactly what i need...yet! The link you gave looks very promising. As for the coding, i've never learned any. I did try Dreamweaver a few years back but i just couldnt take to it. I like iWeb because its pretty simple unless you want to do something thats different from the supplied templates. I have been using it for a few years now on my wifes website, which we decided long ago would need to look unique, so i figured out ways to make it look different from the standard iweb templates. You can do quite a lot using HTML snippets. I've just carried that notion over to my own site....and unfrtunately Apple have ceased to develop the software any more, so i will have to start learning new software once this becomes too outdated. adam

Thanks Nicole, appreciate the help. now if only i could figure a way to do image pop-ups in iWeb!!!

Thanks, glad you like it. I wanted to design one that had a rustic, crafted feel that was somehow reminiscent of the old west without coming across cliched or too cluttered. I have just uploaded a new version of the site, following on from your very helpful comments. I'd be grateful if you could give it the quick once over....see if it looks any better on your screen. adam

you need to get hold of the Al Stohlman books "Making Leather Cases" - one of those has a detailed section showing how to make exactly what you are asking about. I dont have the books in front of me, and i can't remember which volume you need though! rgds Adam

that would explain it! although your points are very valid ones which i am going to work on. i had felt something was awry...just not sure what. I think you spotted the cause! thanks adam

Hi Nicole, thanks for the comments- hope you dont mind me asking...what resolution is your screen set to? adam

as was mentioned way back at the start of the thread - if you want to try leathercraft before you decide to spend a heap on tools - The Tandy Basic kit is a good way to try it out....and its currently on Sale for £36.99 . <---(this is also a link to the tandy uk webpage) in fact i just noticed its a clearance sale with only a few left. The quality may be debateable, but as a cost effective way into the hobby its pretty good. You get a few stamping tools, stitching tools, glue, dyes and a range of projects to make, along with a basic instruction book. It was enough for me to get totally hooked, even though as a total beginner you quickly become aware of the kits quality threshold. Its not intended as the basis of your tool collection, merely a chance to try a few projects to see if you want to progress....only then does it become a very expensive and fulfilling hobby!

greetings from sunny Oldham! i'm sure you'll find all the info and advice you need right here on this fine forum. adam

Agreed - Round Knives are brilliant! I just decided not to mention one yet as they can be costly. i noticed you're in the UK, also. I got my round knife from leprevo.co.uk - i think it cost around £24 - and whilst the site gives no specifics, when it arrived the blade is etched with the George Barnsley name (which has a rather good reputation!) It needs quite a bit of sharpening and honing, just like all new knives, but its a great tool. In fact, i get most of my stuff from leprevo, and if you need advice before buying your leather (assuming you can't actually get to a supplier to see your purchase) they are really helpful if you ring and speak to them.

i too started with the Tandy kit, and quickly found i was hooked!. Its surprising how little you need to get started....essentially you will be cutting out shapes, possibly stamping patterns, marking stitch holes and then stitching pieces together. The Tandy kit will give you some of the basics (their leather pieces are pre-cut and pre-punched, so they dont give you a knife or awl/stitch markers). Heres what i would suggest as well as the tandy beginners kit:- a good knife - keep it extremely sharp, and learn how to maintain a polished cutting edge. engineers dividers - these can be picked up at tool shops for very small amounts. They are ideal for marking stitch lines, and for marking up parallel lines (such as for belts). Stitch markers - pricking iron or overstitch wheel - the choice is yours depending upon how you want your stitching to look. A virtually free alternative i have heard of is to use a fork to mark the stitch holes! Awl - a diamond awl is perfect for making stitch holes you will need to sharpen it when first bought so it makes clean holes easily.....it can also be used to mark the leather if you want a fine scratch mark for cutting (but be careful not to damage the tip.) Needles - I use John James No2 Harness needles - pack of 25 is a couple of quid. You may also want to use glues - i find evostick impact works best for the things i make...just make sure you have plenty of ventilation. Once you get a few projects under your belt, you will have a better idea of how you want to develop and the tools you will need to achieve that. Its so easy to get sucked into the mindset that you need to get new tools for every little task - you don't! I bet all of us leather crafters have boxes full of tools that hardly ever get used, but we bought them because we thought they would be indispensible. Most important thing is to have fun, and learn how to get the most from the tools you do have. adam

a mallet? thats a bit violent isnt it? I find its easiest to flatten the waxed tip between my two thumbnails before threading..

just remembered my other re-purposed thing... My wife makes lots of silicon moulds, and occasionally the residue that's left in the bottom of the mixing pot creates a little 1-3cm thick disc of silicon. Its perfect for using as a Needle cushion - keps them all safe and easy to find. i also used one to create an anti-topple base for a tall thin bottle of solvent. Just cut a hole in the silicon fractionally smaller than the bottle, so it grips it tightly. Now it has no chance of tipping over, and i can jam the brush handle into a small hole in the silicon so the solvent applicator is always with the bottle.

i made myself a wooden bone folder from a scrap of Black Walnut. Just roughly cut it to size, then used the bench sander to add the smooth curves and flat areas i wanted. Then finished it with plenty of very smooth sandpaper. Its my cheapest tool and probably the one i use most!

i'd suggest you learn how to add your website as a link on your forum signatures (assuming you visit other forums as well as this one). Its usually just a case of clicking the little "chain" icon on your profile page setup. This forum has a special place to add your URL, but as i use a few sites, i just added the links as part of the signature. As well as letting people easily access your site, everytime you post on that forum, you are creating a new link to your site, which will be picked up by Googles search spiders and help increase your sites rankings.

mine is 3cm square. It still astonishes me how much detail gets imprinted! adam

Looking on your website, its obvious you know how to do the carving, and so probably already know the correct thickness of leather you will need. As you need to work out a price, find the cost from your leather supplier for 50 shoulders (hopefully you will get a discount for such a large order, then add the amount you want paying for the time spent carving and finishing. That will give you the overall price. Also for such a big order, i would want a large portion of the money upfront. You dont want to buy all that leather only to find the client changes his mind. If the price is too much for them, then so be it. You need to make a profit too. Good luck - sounds a plum job ! Oh - i would not lower the cost for each shoulder either. Just because you might get some use from the offcuts, you would not have had to buy it in the first place were it not for this job...

for me, i find i learn better if i start with an idea of what i want to make, and then either try find a tutorial that shows the technique i need to learn, or look for an example that someone else has made, and study it to see how it was done. Often all it takes is to look critically and you will see what needs to be done to achieve the end result. Then before i get too bogged down in learning - just jump in and start making. I always find that the learning will only really start when i am making the piece. I started out using cheap leather as i didnt want to waste expensive materials on a learning exercise. Once you can make the cheap stuff look good, then its time to think about spending more on the leather. And don't try to make your stuff like high-end products - aim to do better! Many high end products are not so brilliant (many are!!), they are just well marketed and branded. The most important thing though is to HAVE FUN!!!

i've made very similar pouches and attached them to my leather satchels. Mine were not glued, and the leather was a different kind to that you're using The way i found worked for me was this :- scribe a guideline where you want the stitches using a divider- do this on both the main panel and the side. then using a pricking iron, mark the holes...making sure you start at the same edge for both pieces - This is to ensure the holes line up when you bring the pieces together. You can either stitch the "proper" way, by punching each hole as you stitch, but i find it easier to punch the holes before i start stitching using a diamond shaped awl. These images show the finished result.... As with all things crafty - the key is to practice practice practice. just looked again at your image, and i wonder if by rough, you are actually meaning the rough edges of the leather? if thats the problem, then you need to sand the edges before burnishing them. I recently started using a dremel to sand my edges and it does a great job of lining the edges up.

I think i paid approx £50 for around 20-22sqft. (plus tax and shipping etc!) its much firmer than the veg tan i have used before, and you need to be careful not to scratch the surface. i found it really pleasant to work with. i'm not sure if the butt youre refering to is quite the same kind of leather. I think the sort used for leads and collars tend to be an oily leather, whereas the one i used had more of a painted surface.

thanks for the encouraging comments. To answer a few points....I have used contrast stitches on some of my other bags, but for this one my sister-in-law (for its now hers) wanted it matching. The edges were burnished as best i could with just beeswax and a rounded wooden burnisher. It starts off looking quite nice but after a few days it seems to soak into the leather. Hopefully it will help stop moisture being absorbed. I will be looking into getting some edge paint for future projects. In fact, i've just remembered - i made the shoulder pad as an afterthought, and used a different leather for the underside, then dyed it with a dark brown fiebings dye to help bind the two edges colourwise. Having seen the result, If i had not already beeswaxed the edges i would have tried dyeing all the edges as it does look better....live and learn!! I think the stitch marker i have is 7 stitches to the inch... Tom - what foil are you refering to?

I was wondering about trying to heat the stamp with a blow torch before stamping! I cant afford anything as fancy as a heated press just yet! I'm actually making myself a flight bag at the moment - I often travel abroad on business and i'm fed up with bags that dont have the flexibility for my needs. Its bigger than most, but it is within the regulation dimensions for carry on luggage. I am sticking with a single BIG inner so it can hold my clothes and any other crap i might want to carry. The backside has a large flat document pocket, and i'm probably going to add a water bottle holder to one end. Its made with a thick yet soft oily mottled tan coloured cowside. It has an instant aged look. One plan is to make a matching smaller laptop bag that will fit inside the main bag using trigger clips to hold it secure. Then when get to the hotel, i can unclip the shoulder strap from the big bag and transfer it to the laptop bag. Only downside to this is that i need to buy more leather to make the smaller bag.

another Adam! hello!! thanks for the kind words. The leather is not veg-tan but something i got from Leprevo.co.uk called Dyed Thru Full Butt. So i didn't have to colour the leather at all. The buckles and magnetic catches also came from leprevo. The closure was made by using two leather strips sewn back to back, with a magnetic catch on one side and a standard buckle further up the strip and mounted on the other side of the strip . This buckle attatches to the billet strap as normal and allows the position to be altered if required. this might show it a bit better.I got my maker stamp from LWLeatherworks.com (http://www.etsy.com/.../LWleatherworks) - they also advertise and post on this forum. adam