bruce johnson

The bigger the number, the larger the size. The approximates are each number is +/- 1/32". A #2 is 2/32 between the ridges, a #5 wiuld be 5/32", etc. Then it gets fun. Gomph makes another size range up from there also in a #1-#5 size range they call a large round creaser. The older Osbornes made a larger size range #1-#5 and they called them layer creasers. The larger size range starts at 6/32 and goes up 1/32 with each number. There can be some variation between one tool to the next due to small manufacturing differences and wear. Then you find the occasional #0 or #6 too. All bets are off on the new Osborne ones and they bear little resemblance to the old ones. Apparently they lost the patterns and quality control specs at some point.

I have added several new tools to my website today. There are knives including a stellar Wm Rose head knife, splitters, rein rounders, and saddler and cantle pliers. Here is the link to the recent addition page - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/recently-added-tools/ Thank you, - Bruce

With any groover round corners can be a little tricky and take some practice. What I do is to sometimes use my left thumb to make a "brake" for the blade and really concentrate on swinging the guide around the edge on the corners with the cutting tip mostly pivoting until the guide leg clears the corner. It is the same action I use with a border guide on my swivel knife if I am cutting borders, using creasers, or any similar guided tool going around tight outside corners. Practice on some scrap to get the motion down.

Once the blade is in, the most common reason the leather goes over or under the blade is not being positioned correctly. I have had this happen a few times. Sharpen a blade and get feedback that leather is going over or under the blade. There are stops that catch the corners of the blade. The blade needs to be pushed up against them and somewhat tightened. Relax just enough to let the blade marginally come back off the stop so it is not tight.

String bleeders need to have an absolute fine point on the tip to start the cut. They need to start like an awl blade and the blade edge has to be really sharp. If they are dull or burred over anywhere then you are pushing too hard and they go crooked or make too large a slit. With a good edge I like them the best. I have had them from Bob Douglas, McMillen and Jeremiah Watt with equal results. One of those things I don't get real often and they go fast when I do. Another tool that works is a large thonging awl, like a diamond awl only bigger. That was my first bleed slit cutter and they do a good job but again kind of uncommon. The problem I had with them was that the bottom edge might be cutting into the other leg of the string if I didn't pay attention.

Here is a link to a tutorial on my website I did about edge beveler sharpening - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/tutorials/

I generally don't deal with motorized stuff but I have sold a two of the Randall strap cutters in good condition for around $400 each.

Hanson's Silver have them. and most silver makers can solder conchos onto carriage bolts.

What are these going to be?

Not that it relates to this topic directly but a heads up to NVLeatherWorx and others who use the online USPS shipping for internationals. You can no longer print the small flat rate box labels through the website. You have to go in and do it at the window. A couple weeks ago they took that option away with no notification or explanation on the site. Medium and larger boxes and all the envelopes are still there. I tried a few ways and no go. Spent 1-1/2 hours on hold for customer service one day before the live person lost me 3 seconds into it. Got a guy the next day after a 50 minute wait. His shift had started an hour earlier and his "log" so far had 36 calls in that hour asking where the small flat rate box option is. The statement is the label is too large for the box. He also told me that regional flat rates are gone too if you use those.

Johanne, A few things that are going on over here with them. I am batting about 25% getting one shipped to me without it being broken. The last was packed like a bug in a rug but the postal service dropped the box on the end. Accordioned the end of the box (which they admit) and denied payment because the damage was from "shock" which they don't cover. If nothing pokes through the box, they call it shock damage and at least for this denied it and again on two appeals. The only recent one that got here without being broken was part of a shop deal and it was pitted beyond use. The other thing is the price has really dropped on them in some areas. A lot of the harness is going to Beta and the demand for creasers has dropped. The guys that hit the Midwest auctions said that creasers are not worth the guys bringing them and they are not showing up like they used to. That ought to mean there are some just sitting, but I am not seeing them out here and with my track record I am not seeking them out either.

It is a decorative wheel that is also referred to as a "crow wheel". Some bespoke shoe and boot makers use them for decorative lines.

David, I ship out internationally 5-6 times a week on average the last couple months. I pretty much only use USPS Priority Mail. If I can keep the box size under 12" the rates are not too bad. The recipients don't want any more surprises on fees with other shippers than what they already expect. The only exception has been couple shipments that insisted on Global Express Guaranteed that uses a combination of FedEx and USPS to expedite shipments. Customs are usually pretty fast in most places. Sent a heavy big box to Australia last Monday and he just emailed that he got it today. I had one that got hung up in Canadian Customs and they held it about a month though, Canada and England can be slow going in. On internationals coming to me, I have never paid on anything mailed to me yet. I haven't received anything internationally from UPS or FedEx but DHL has breezed right in with no fees too. Some are heavy and insured for a bunch and I figured they'd be the ones.

Inlays, wallets, card cases, bucking rolls,

I would recommend calling Lisa Sorrell at Sorrell Custom Boots in Guthrie, OK. She has used it for a while and is selling it. I was there a couple weeks ago and she gave me small sample to try. it worked well in a test I did with it. She can fill you in on using it for footwear.

Billy, This is a picture of Weaver's version. In the past a few companies made these. Those versions had either a wood or steel bottom roller and put a single or dbouled crease line down each edge of the strap. Some were domed to crown the straps as well.

CC, Interesting piece. I haven't seen a patent or example like this one before. My total guess on this is that the original blade slot broke out (not uncommon) and this was modified. A few things tell me that. The tapering grind to allow clearance for the two bolts. That is the most used section of the beam and full width is going to feed better. The plate that the bolts go through has no shim so the only pressure on the blade is from that plate squeezing the blade. The slot appears too narrow front to back for a stock Osborne draw gauge blade so it probably was fitted with an improvised blade. I have had several with the broken out or cracked blade slot. A little excess tension on the screw and that can bow out or crack the slot. The closest I have seen to this had two screws tapped into the very edge of the slot front and back and the bolt heads somewhat held the blade. This appears to be an interesting fix. The 67 on the handle is a matching number. The matching original beam would have the same #67 on it. The common place is the bottom part of the slot frame on the beam. These were all individually fitted and mated beam and handles. The early ones had numbers, letters, or patterns of awl pricks on the mated beams and handles so as they went through the finishing stages in bulk they could be matched back up for final assembly. Somewhere along the line they all adopted the interchangeable parts manufacturing process and built tools and bench machines en masse without individual fitting.

Bret, you just keep raising the bar! That is some kind of cool!

I'd say start with a 16 oz for most stamps then a larger one for big block stamps. My most used are 16 and 24 oz. I have a 32 oz for big blocks. My 3# is used to drive punches.

It is kind of how you are taught first and then which works better for you after. I was self taught, and then retaught by an old guy who moved from striking sticks to mauls. With a maul I am holding it perpendicular to my forearm. I rock my wrist without much forearm movement and the deadfall effect of the maul head does the work. If you get a rhythm going you can fly down a line beveling with a little practice. For set stamps I use a heavier maul and still do the rock without much arm into it. Big block stamps I do have to add a little downswing. I can go longer with less fatigue with the rocking motion. Round vs Tapered - in both cases you want the maul to hit squarely on the top of the stamp shaft. From there it is personal preference. With the round maul you have to have it slightly higher than a tapered maul to make the square hit. I can rest my elbow either at my side or on my stamping bench with a tapered maul. With a round maul I have to slightly raise my elbow. Some guys can keep them down with a round maul, I can't. I have had some shoulder problems and avoided surgery in part by changing how I did things. Hovering my arm with a 1# or 1-1/2# maul for a few hours made the decision for tapered mauls pretty easy. Head material - They are not all the same. I prefer Wayne Jueschke's material. It is a little grippy without feeling soft. It lasts longer than the Energizer bunny. My oldest one barely looks used. I have them from other makers, but give the slight edge to Wayne. Balance - In my hands - Barry King's are more neutral. Bearman's seem a touch more head heavy, Wayne Jueschke's are more head heavy. For the way I use one, Barry's or Bearman's are good for small stamps like narrow bevelers, seeders, and bargrounders. Wayne's are my go-to ones for larger stamps. Handles - I ring my thumb and first two fingers and let the last two fingers relax when I am running a stamp. Rocking my wrist continuously and the looseness at the heel of my hand is the rebound for the maul to bounce off and rebound. When I do a set stamp I grip tighter and let it fall, maybe add a little oomph for a bigger stamp or lighter maul. Bigger stamps and I grip and rip. All of the handles can be reshaped. I have had my little finger dislocated a few times and it splays out to the side. The taper on Wayne Jueschke's maul handles are good for me. I sanded one of the handles of Barry King's down and it worked well too. I had my Bearman turned down and like it 100% better. That's just me. You will find an even split of people who prefer the different maker's handles as-is. Barry King's handle is my favorite for driving heavy punches or setting rivets. If I am swinging one like a hammer his handle shape is the most secure for that.

It was worth it to me even though the adjuster screw wasn't original. I got a bit worried because the shipping cost seemed a bit light and passed. It costs me almost that to pack one right and ship it within the US. The handle and the adjuster screw need to be taken off for shipping. Dealing with international insurance on a broken one wasn't something I wanted to risk. I still figured it would go for around $300 or better.

Good latigo will be your best choice and I like around a 6 oz weight. Most saddle strings are cut 1/2" wide. One thing that helps them to stay tied is to "crown" them. Basically bevel the edges of the flesh side back with a French edger or string beveler at a pretty flat angle. Then pull them through a round hole in a block of wood, firm heavy leather, or rein rounder to kind of "curl" them. If you case them up in warmish water first they will hold that curl a little better.

I am with J Hayes. I like my blades just slightly behind the dead center top on most all splitters. Some people like them centered. If the edge is the least bit in front of the dead center top then the leather wants to slide under the blade and not bite.

I used to wonder how many different kinds of splitters were made. Every time I think I must be getting close to the end of the list, I see something different yet again. Splitters are the leather kingdom's version of the never ending story. I've had or have most all of the one's BSS has, plus I have a Dixon lap skiver. I sold another a while back. Yep, they are cool... HH has had good luck with the Chase splitting chrome tan. That was a real concern for me when I sent it, and sounds like it is still doing what I wasn't sure it could. You can't see me, so here's a cyber fist pump!

I have a lot of heroes in the leather business and it'd be hard to pick one. Don Butler is one of them. This is a print of a saddle that Don Butler made. He sent me this print after telling me the story behind the picture, another laugh a second tale by him. It has hung in the entry to our house since I got it framed. I had the pleasure of taking "Saddle Week" at Sheridan with Don and Al Gould several years ago. Don and I share the same history of breaking our pelvis on a bucking horse and staying in the saddle. We hit it off from then on. I met Don at other shows, the NFR, and it was always a pleasure and a lot of laughs. I took a carving class from him at the Elko show a few years ago. In my eye, that is still the one single best piece of carving I have ever done. Last year at the Sheridan show we stopped by Don's shop a couple times and he wasn't there. He had been weak from the surgeries and not out much. I went one last time and he was there. I was glad we made the extra effort to see him at Sheridan. He had heard about me changing my focus from the leatherwork to leather tools. We had a good talk (and laughs are a given). His parting words to me were some he had used before - "Well, don't weaken now!". My world shrunk a little when I heard he had died, and I think Nick Pernokas did a great tribute article about him in ShopTalk.