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About AllanD

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Central California
  • Interests
    fishing, waiting for retirement, grandkids

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    pet items
  • Interested in learning about
    how to make things come out as nice as everyone else's
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  1. Thank you all. A lot of good tips and ideas. I will give them a try and see what works well for me. Thanks for your time.
  2. Thank you for the reply. I tried weld wood because I had it and have used it for many other things for years. Always ended up with a small dark line between the leather layers. Tried Barges and have had the same issue. Maybe I'm not letting it dry enough because I get a little blob of squeeze out sometimes. Sanding hasn't worked because the glue impregnated leather is harder than the remaining leather. Thanks for your answers. I'm going to try a couple of things you mentioned and figure out a better way. I appreciate your help, thanks.
  3. I use glue to hold pieces together for stitching, which is usually along an edge. I have tried a couple of different contact cements that stores have recommended. I have watched many videos and folks put the glue right along the edge. When I press the two pieces of leather together, I get a little squeeze out and it is impossible to clean off and get a nice burnish on the edge. The glue residue leaves a little dark hard spot that won't burnish well.I tried an eraser like Rusty recommends, tried sanding it down, and tried everything else I can think of. I tried stitching without glue and that was a mess. It seems any glue may leave some residue, but many of the videos I have watched, no one seems to have any problem like this They glue over the edge onto their backing sheet and still seem to burnish nicely. I would appreciate and suggestions on glue or what I am doing wrong or should be doing. Thank you.
  4. Go to the first post on this subject where Jim so kindly posted this help for all of us. Click on the highlighted link Dress Belts.jpg and it will download. Thank you again Jim.
  5. I struggled with this same issue on pet collars. I recalled a dozen collars from my first sale because I hadn't tested them with moisture. I have tried several dyes and sealers. They help, but still bleed. I switched to Tandy's Professional Waterstain, and after it dries completely, it does not bleed off. I wet it and rub enough to loosen the fuzz on the back and still no dye bleeding. These have worked well for me on the front also and are what I most of the time.
  6. Thank you for sharing this Gary.
  7. Slow Learner, I purchased the Gold Star press about the time you posted your question about rivet dies. I don't use a lot of rivets, but wasn't satisfied with setting them by hand. I don't remember which die came with my press, but I ended up having to buy another size to fit small to large rivets. I then had a 8mm die and a 9mm die. Recently I posted a question on solid brass hardware on this forum and with the excellent information I received, I have upgraded to solid brass rivets (from Tandy). They need a 10 mm die, so I bought one. Twenty bucks a pop is reasonable for me to install these correctly. I have wasted more than that in leather and the time I put into a project. So far they all work well. I don't have any ghost rings from the anvil or setter if not all lines up well.
  8. Thank you all very much for the help you have offered. Some of the information was helpful to confirm what I suspected, being a graduate of the school of hard knocks and learning most things the harder way. Other parts were new to me and very interesting. All of it was excellent information that I appreciate you sharing. I also appreciate your time and suggestions. I want to be proud of my finished product and you folks are helping me get there. Thank you again.
  9. Thank you for the video and pattern. Very through with the details and instructions.
  10. I want to make products with quality hardware that will be strong and nice looking. I have seen ads where solid brass was touted as being of superior quality. Is a solid brass snap hook or ring stronger than a similar one made of steel and having a brass or nickel plate. Brass does look nice, but strength of the items is more important. Has anyone done any trials on different metals or have metallurgy experience that might give me some insight? I will be using these on pet collars. Thanks!
  11. Not everything you read on the internet is true.--Abraham Lincoln
  12. Thank you for the pattern and chart Jim. I'm making a variety of dog collars for a local pet store and I confuse myself with the different lengths and hole placement. I have made patterns by width, but doesn't always work like I want. I need to make a chart like you did and get my work more uniform. Thank you again, this is much appreciated.
  13. I use to use Tandy's large eye needle for stitching to make it easier to thread. I had a couple break at the eye because they were so difficult to get through the leather. I think the pressure of the leather around the awl hole was too much for the steel of the needle. I changed to normal needles. They go through the hole easier, or seem to anyway. Threading them wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.
  14. I have used pig on a couple of clutch purses and it handled and glued well, but I didn't like it. It didn't match the primary side well. Too different for my taste. I have just changed to using 2 oz veg tan and finish similar to the front or soon to be tried in a contrast. I like it's more natural similar look.
  15. Thanks for your help. I had already dismissed the gloves as I only had one on and the reaction was both hands. I'm rethinking that now after your suggestions as I recently changed brands of gloves. But thinking about it, whatever I get on one hand will probably find it's way to the other quickly. Thanks for your time and knowledge.
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