Constabulary

Now - more than 3 years later 😉 I checked with a known Chinese Ebay seller of sewing machine parts if he can get me the "Pfaff to Singer KB-PF1" foot converter. Few days later he uploaded a listing to Ebay and I have bought 2 pieces - now waiting for them to arrive. Reason I need them is that I found a Pfaff 341 (needle feed) and there are not really plenty of Pfaff needle feed feet out there but I have a good number of Singer feet so I will see how these converters work and I´ll post pictures when I haven em here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/168042808004?var=467644970296

don´t know for sure but could be a heating device for warming the waxed thread. But its just guessing. EDIT: Rapid E 317 is the same machine AFAIK - see manual page page 8. Rapid E 317.pdf

But the roller tip will not be flush when you have the FBA attached AND put washers under attachment screws or am I missing something 😉

but then the roller is no longer flush with he needle plate

or you make a flat bed attachment where you can screw on an edge guide or modify yours. I once made this FBA for my Singer 45D91 but on mine I cannot use the 441 roller edge guide but the OEM Singer 45K edge guide that mounts on the flat bed steel plate insert. Note the 3 holes in line. Thats where I can mount guides and accessories.

The guide appears to be for the JUKI 441 + clones. So w/o knowing the CB Outlaw but knowing Singer 45K´s, Adler 5 / 105 and so forth I´d say either flat bed or edge guide. A suspended flip up edge guide probably is the better option when working with a flat bed. maybe something like this https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008728390412 or check this thread:

machine seems to be a Singer 17 or Seiko TE-6 and they have supper small bobbin. Surprises me that they sew with fairly think thread this fairly thick leather with a machine like this > not much thread on the bobbin. When I look at the stitch length lever the it seems to me just a screw w/o reverse - or not? However - IIRC there was a reverse device of the Singer Class 7 that did not come with reverse ex factory... Maybe they tinkered something similar. Well.... lots of guessing here. No matter what they do a great job there - I´m quite impressed. EDIT: weeeeell - I´m not sure - new TE-6 have reverse AFAIK but not sure what I see there. EDIT II: Looks like this one - which looks like a non reverse machine

thread is coming of the spool a bit the odd way. Maybe one of these thingies may be helpful. However if it works for you then don´t mind. 😉

okay, may depend on the machine 😉

I´m updating here cause I have an Astor M5 on my bench for restoration - the inner thread is metric M10x1.5 (at least on mine). So the information MikeRock got from the distributor is correct. So if you need a cheap tool adapter for M6 or M8 tools / dies then this could be an option: https://www.ebay.de/itm/402466257921 Hope this helps

not sure what you mean... Is it that your last stitch is probably to long and not hitting the 1st needle hole where the seam began? If so then you can shorten the stitch with the reverse lever and hand crank the last stitch - if you know what I mean.

not sure where how you figured that but I have different experience (I´m living in a metric country). Maybe someone overcut the original threads on your machines. Nothing really metric I´d say: https://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/technical/parts/screw_threads/

Or NTB in the City where the Adlers came from: https://naehtechnik.eu/

Check with Liersch: https://liersch.com/online-shop/ersatzteile/ or Zieger: https://www.np-z.com/ or Busche: https://busche-online.de/ If they don´t have it in the Shop send them an Email - Answers may take longer due to Christmas season.

I never did that drop test, the manuals show how to set the tension right. That works for decades, just follow it. But as always - many roads lead to Rome - or each to his own. 😉