Cascabel

I always pull thread at the take-up arm to remove the project on my CB4500. I had always assumed that was normal operation. I have to do it on my 42-5 also, because there is no provision for automatically releasing the top tension on that machine, so pulling from the take-up arm has become my habit. As an experiment, I unthreaded it from around the lower tension device on my 4500, and it does indeed release the top tension quite nicely when raising the foot, however the lower tensioner seems to be the culprit., as there is no provision to loosen the tension automatically, so it remains snug, but not unreasonably so. Pulling from the take-up arm is quite smooth , and not at all difficult, and as I said it had become my habit anyhow from using my other machine. Perhaps Wiz can tell us if that would be considered normal or not. Or maybe it is not necessary to go around the lower tensioner one and a half times ? I have not tried experimenting with that, as I am quite happy with how the machine works as-is.

Before you run it, give it a good oiling. Don't forget to remove the cover plate over the needle bar area. There are several important oiling points in there.

As far as Chinese made goods go, If they are asked to make something good, they can do it, but usually they are asked to make things as cheaply as possible, so therefore quality suffers, and so does their reputation. It's a shame that they are willing to make sub-standard goods in order to make a profit. The same situation exists with things made in India and Pakistan. Back when I was a pup, the stuff from Japan had the same reputation, but no longer. If the companies that order the things insist on top quality, then that is what the Chinese can produce. The price will still be lower because of lower labor cost, but not rock bottom. Unfortunately because of all this there are a lot of tools and equipment of inferior quality from China being sold. You have to know what you are buying !! Most 441 clones are an example of what can be had from China. The dealers that advertise here sell a quality product, but there may be some lesser quality machines sold elsewhere, that look similar.

"Some make a pleasing tapokita tapokita sound as you sew. This makes you feel like Walter Mitty." Well..... I gotta admit, "tapokita-tapokita" can be pretty important !!! LOL :thumbsup:

The best and cheapest solution is to use the compressor out of an old refrigerator. They are pretty much totally silent, and will serve nicely for an airbrush, if that is all you need it for. You will need to feed the output through a small tank, like an old propane or freon bottle to take the pulsations out of it. The small "silent" compressors sold commercially are quite similar, but a lot more expensive. You will also want a regulator on the output side of the tank. The tank is absolutely necessary, as the refrigeration compressor is a single piston type. A compressor from an air conditioner will also work nicely. Either way, you leave the compressor inside its original housing, which helps to keep it quiet. Put an intake filter on the inlet side to keep the dirt out of it, and connect the output side to your tank. You can tell inlet from output by feeling the openings of the pipes when you connect the power. These things pretty much last forever, as they are sealed up in a housing free from dirt.

Is there anything that can be done with a needle and awl machine that cannot be done equally well with a properly adjusted 441 clone ?

I frequently see mention of "needle and awl" machines in this forum. Can someone please explain exactly what they are, and how they work, and their purpose ? I don't think I need one, but I'm really curious about what they are....

When I took delivery on my Cowboy 4500, I had to go UP a set of stairs with it. I got my neighbor to lend a hand. We took the table section up one step at a time strapped to a hand truck, lifting together. The head section is best left in the box. The easiest way to deal with it is to SLIDE it, up (or down) the stairs, rather than lifting it. One man can manage it if it is SLID on the stairs. Going down is of course easier than going up. The box should be opened AFTER negotiating the stairs. You will need a hand lifting the head on to the table, but it just needs to be set in place, and can then be easily slid a bit to line up the bolt holes. Be sure to attach the wheels to the base, BEFORE lifting the head on to it. You should also lock the brakes before trying to get the head up on to the table so that the whole thing doesn't try to scoot away from you while lifting the head in to place !! One thing I found that makes life easier is that I lowered the table all the way down before installing the head. Makes for a much shorter lift !! I am going to use the machine while sitting down anyhow. I can't see working standing up if I don't have to !!

After you get it freed up, DO NOT FORGET to lubricate it completely with a good sewing machine oil !! Mystery Oil and other thin penetrating oils are NOT suitable for long term use as lubricants. They will not lubricate well for any length of time and protect your machine against excessive wear. After using the thin penetrating products, you will need several applications of a proper oil to flush the thin oils out of the bearings. Properly warned, sez I !!

ALWAYS keep in mind that there is no such thing as an "Industrial Strength" sewing machine, no matter what the Craigslist or ebay listings say !! Just because a machine is made of cast iron and painted black does not make it an industrial machine. Back in the old days, ALL sewing machines were painted black and made of cast iron. Most machines on ebay including 15-91's and other old machines listed as "Industrial Strength" are simply old domestic machines. Many are in good shape if well cared for, but not suitable for leather or other heavy sewing such as canvas. For the newbies, the easiest thing to do is to look at the motor. If it's the size of a man's fist, and mounted of the back of the machine, it will be a domestic machine. A true industrial machine has a motor about the size of your head, and it's mounted underneath the table !!

I have a 42-5 which I use for everything from medium weight leather to heavy canvas and upholstery fabrics. It will sew very nearly a half inch thick if I'm careful. Three eighths of an inch is no problem at all. The large heavy flywheel helps it to punch through thick materials easily. One of the greatest features of the 42-5 is that as the foot is raised by thick materials, it does not release the thread tension. Automatically releasing the thread tension as the foot is raised limits the thickness capability of a great many machines !!

Thanks !!! I have always been curious about that. I have a Cowboy, but never knew what was involved to put it right for leather. Might be a good topic to pin.

I have seen several mentions recently about 441 machines and clones needing to be "set up for leather", or adjusted to be suitable for leather. What, exactly does this amount to ? Simple adjustments, major modifications, or what ? I understand that the machines bought from the dealers that advertise here already have the needed adjustments, but what do they consist of ??

I did a project like that once. I ran it through the machine to get evenly spaced holes around the edge, and then laced it together using brass wire. It was a custom knife sheath.

It can be found on ebay fairly inexpensively. I bought a gallon several years back, and have plenty for a long time. Just enter "sewing machine oil" in the search window.

With my CB4500, I dropped the stand all the way down to the level of a regular machine, and use one of the nice office-type swivel chairs on casters that I use with my other machines. I really don't care to work standing up if I don't have to !!

Thanx !!!

Just took delivery on a new CB4500. Can somebody explain the accessory feet and plates to me ? I sort of figured out the purpose of the left and right Harness Feet, but under what circumstances would I use the Blanket Feet ? I also have a Stirrup Plate, a Holster Plate, and a Slotted Needle Plate, in addition to what I assume to be a standard all-purpose needle plate that was already installed on the machine. Can anybody explain each of these items, and when I would use them ? I am sure these items can make life easier if I can learn what they are for. I have always "made do" with what was already attached to my other machines, never having had any accessory items for them. Other than not understanding the accessory items, it is a truly amazing machine !!

I have one of these 42-5's, and I use it for just about everything. Excellent machines within their limits. I use 135x16 and 135x17 needles in mine, depending on the material being sewn. It will handle up to 3/8 of an inch of leather or heavy canvas or webbing with no difficulty. Thicker leather can be handled, if you are careful. I have sewn fine upholstery fabric in various thicknesses also with good results. Of course, you will have to adjust upper tension and sometimes lower tension with a change in thread sizes, but that is expected. I usually use #69 or #138 thread, mostly because that is what I have on hand, and they are good for most of the stuff I do. I find one of the biggest advantages to these machines is that raising of the foot does not release the upper tension, so if you need to "bump" the knee lifter to climb over a thick seam, you will not create a problem for yourself. I don't know if other machines have this feature or not. Most I have looked at release the upper tension when the foot is raised, either by using the lever or by "pushing the limit" on fabric thickness or climbing over thick seams, which limits the thickness that can be sewn. If something will fit under the foot, it can be sewn with these machines !!

No apologies necessary !!! I value your opinion. Some features will be more important than others to different people. The more info and opinions I can gather, the easier I it will be to make a decision. .

OK..... I don't really know that EPS is an important feature. I've been sewing for years in many different materials with many machines, and never had a problem stopping where I wanted to. I guess it could be handy, but not a deal breaker.

OK........ I give up, what is meant by "EPS" ???

So apparently there are no important differences in these machines, other than the stainless steel feet on Cowboy machines ? Perhaps I should mostly consider what is offered for accessory packages and shipping cost as the deciding factors. Any thoughts.... ?

Is this machine still available ?

What would be the advantage to stainless steel for these parts ?