Ian1783

I've just started to set rivets in bags that my wife has been sewing, and am having some difficulties. I'm hoping to hear about possible solutions. I really like the copper rivets we've been buying from our local Tandy; they have the look we're going for. But I haven't been able to get a completely smooth, peened dome. I've availed myself of discussions about this in this forum, and am heartened by the fact that many of you eventually succeed in getting good results. I wonder if my problem might be the surface I use to set rivets: typically, our dining room table on which is placed a plastic cutting board (that's my surface, that cutting board). I use a medium weight ball-peen hammer and a Tandy rivet setter - the type with both a hole for setting the washer and a concave for pounding the dome into shape. I have not as yet been able to set a river that doesn't have some rough spot, or space between the rivet post and the washer. This is very slight, but is rough enough to have me worry that one could scrape a hand too easily on these. Buy this, I mean the edge of the domed post is not fully contacting the washer, leaving a slight, but noticeable, and sharp edge. I'm cutting the rivet with diagonals, leaving what strikes me as enough river post, while not being too much, I figure about 3/64" or so. I'm hoping to put together a table better suited to rivet setting - small, heavy, stable, with a final surface of a metal plate or small anvil. My thinking is that all pounding forces will be better focused on the rivet, rather than been absorbed by the combination of inappropriate table, surface, etc. Does this seem to be the proper direction for bettering my technique? And will I see an improvement in setting quick rivets as well? Quick rivets are bending at the post before they are completely set. I realize I've been attacking them too aggressively, and hope to get better at that. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I notice your thread isn't routed through its final guide, the little rounded arm first thing up the needle. Maybe you have it this way only during your photo shoot. Nice photos by the way! I don't know if your thread routing might be causing your problems, but thought I'd point that out. I've never reconditioned a hook, but I do believe it's an option. I would think it may be preferable to replacing the hook assembly. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

My wife and I are just getting into this and haven't yet put anything to the test, but we expect to use a website for general information and more in-depth product awareness (photos, etc.), and perhaps Etsy as an e-commerce vehicle. We may also begin showing (and hopefully selling) at a farmers-market booth in the spring. I'm sure there's much to learn. Thanks for posting the question. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thank you all for your responses. As I prepared my reply, it dawned on me that when my wife ever made articles of clothing, whether skirt, shirt, blouse or napkin, she certainly considered it hand-made - always on a sewing machine - no matter that the fabric was store bought. I think, as Tim pointed out, that our process fits the description of what most would regard hand-made, as opposed to a "push-button" process. Our leather bags are not of the hand-stitched variety, nor is that our goal. In fact, the stitching is quite secondary, or even more removed from our first intent to produce simple, hand-made, leather bags, pouches, workshop aprons, etc. We're hoping to have fun with a new hobby, while possibly making a few bucks to help pay for the venture. Thanks again. Great forums. I'm glad I ventured here. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I'd like to market what I produce as "hand made", but wondered if there is a fairly distinct line between hand-made and machine-made. If I use a clicker to cut out pieces and a sewing machine to assemble, is that then machine made? If mine is a home-based business where I design and assemble (make) leather goods, essentially by hand, but not hand-sewn, can I say my wares are hand made? In that vein, if I clicker-cut and machine-sew products (in this case, small bags and purses) using leather from who knows where and hardware (buckles, conchos, etc.) from Tandy, say (almost assuredly made outside the USA), can I market my finished products as "Made in USA"? Or would I be constrained by the possible overseas source of my materials to "Assemble in USA", or (worse) "Assembled in USA with Parts made in China" (for instance)? I'm hoping some of you on this forum have considered these things and might provide direction, as I have no idea how this works. Thanks! Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thank you all for your responses! A fellow LW member posted a template that I regarded as his attempt at producing such using a drawing program. The template itself seemed to be based on a particular online seller's "possibles" bag. My wife and I used this pattern for the basis of a few bags sewn out as tests while we acclimated to the craft of machine sewing. We made some adjustments to the design to better fit our design sense and purpose. We're enjoying the process, and have had encouraging responses from a couple of small retailers who'd like to carry our bags. Interestingly, I pointed out to my wife a detail on a vintage Black Forest Cuckoo Clock owned by friends: a hunter's bag as part of the whole carved-in-wood theme - stag's head, rifle, bugle and bag. The bag was remarkably similar to what we now know as a "possibles" bag. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Beautiful little machines - remarkable quality in so small a package. Please don't grind anything. These can be adjusted to work just fine. Interestingly, Arthur Porter has a "how to" video where he assembles a handbag, disclosing at the end the machine he used: a Singer 221 Featherweight (skiving was the trick that allowed him to do so). I've had a number of these. It would be difficult to explain any quick fixes, but if you had success timing it, you should be able to adjust for distance between needle and hook. Be sure the needle is in correctly. Googling will net you good advice. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

MikeG, - Yes, I figure I'll have to create something like what you posted; some kind of spindle that fits the small bobbin, plus a means of driving it. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out, though I'd prefer something more readily at hand. I did enjoy the musical interlude! Thanks Bob. There isn't anything that "flips" on this device (at least not in the condition it's in). That "blade" is held in place by a screw in the side of the casting, and two smaller screws, top and bottom, at the back, adjust the blade in and out. But no apparent purpose as it stands. Curious. But I do think you're right - it has to do with holding up the presser foot for darning. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I picked up a new-to-me Singer 29-4 yesterday. I had a 29K-60 a few months back, but without a treadle base, and with its being a long arm, I sold it it. This 29-4 came with its base, and what with my having had some experience with the machine type, I found it easy enough to understand, but... There is an attachment on the machine (see photo) that I'm unfamiliar with. It has an adjustable blade-like insert on the operator's side, and a bolt on the back side that looks not to be a Singer part (the bolt, that is). It's forked so that the walking beam nestles between the fork tines, but the beam rubs against the back fork tine. I'm figuring I'll keep it off, as it doesn't serve any purpose that I'm aware of, but I would like to know what it is. Anybody? Also, the bobbin on this (boy, is it a tiny little thing!) has a split in the bottom disk. Is this normal? The machine works well, and the bobbin split doesn't effect operation. I figure I'll have to get more bobbins, so want to get what's right. (EDIT) So, checked for bobbins on eBay and found that, yes, the split in the bobbin is supposed to be there. And then... because my machine does not have a bobbin winder, can anyone suggest a bobbin-winding solution for these little guys? Very small spindle hole means none of my other machines can be used for this. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the response, Will. While I'm still not sure I'm especially on top of this, any input gets me closer to being comfortable with where it is I'm heading (I think). Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I want to be able to fashion an assortment of bags for sale in shops, at craft/farmers markets, etc., but worry that what I create from patterns I create using clues from other people's work might constitute copyright infringement of some sort. I'm talking simple designs (time honored?) like possibles bags. I create a template from an image or pattern, adjust for size, material characteristics, etc., the sew out a bag to be sold for profit. Do any of you see issues with what I'm hoping to do? Not talking Gucci knockoffs, or anything like it, but I am using basic designs that I re-purpose with custom touches. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks, FD! I've looked at Porter's videos and find them great. I'll have to revisit them, as I'm sure he'll have much to show about what I'm hoping to learn. Thanks for the reminder. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks Cammo. I did note that Spinner hadn't made the bag, but rather just created the pattern. The pattern isn't what one would expect from Simplicity, say - no notes or guidelines; very simple, but open to custom adjustments. Mary and I have gone over it again and believe it may be that the D-ring tabs are sewn onto the front and back pieces while they lay flat, with the D-ring on but not sewn into place. The front and back, together with the reinforcement tabs, would then be sewn together where they do sew together (the gusset, not shown with Spinner's patterns, would have been sewn on first), with the D-ring tabs already sewn in place. I realize this isn't easy to visualize; hard enough to explain. I'm hoping to get the proper sequence down without too much waste (the fabric tests help). What I can see is that this sort of assembly process, and its sequence, needs to be exact for best result. First steps are the hardest. I'm sure it will get easier. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

My wife and I are attempting our first leather bag project, a possibles bag, and looking for input on the assembly sequence. This first foray is using a template as provided here on Leatherworker by one of its members: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17185&hl=possibles What do you suppose the right assembly sequence would be? Mostly, the issue seems to be when and how the D-ring tabs are sewn on. Everything else is fairly straightforward. My wife, Mary, has sewn out a test in fabric, and found the D-ring tabs difficult to line up if one is to sew them on last with the back-side half of the tab hidden (folded under). Should the D-ring tab be sewn on when the material is laid out flat? When is the ring itself sewn in? Any insight would be appreciated. If and when we get this down, I'll post the sequence that works best for this project. Thanks! Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Google hemstitcher or hemstitching. I have my machine working, as far as I know, but it's missing one set of tension disks, so I can only get it to sew one needle at a time. It uses two needle, two bobbins. It has "piercers" - one is an auxiliary piercer that preps the hole for the needles. The needles group with the second piercer and both, along with that second piercer enter the hole prepped for it, widen it, then stitch the hole open. You get a chain of small holes sewn into the fabric. Vintage linens often had these. Or, at least what I recall. Quite a process. If I get mine going completely (and I should, soon), I'll post pics. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Yes, CD, your 72W19 is pretty much the same as my 72W12, though I'm sure there must be an added feature or upgrade. I'm loving the treadle. Made for industrials? I see it was shortened. I see these 72W's (having now done a little research) going for quite a bit (asking prices, in some cases, over 2K). Seems a lot for a machine with such a narrow use. Another feature of my 72W13, one that might interest leather workers, is the motor: it is an industrial, but is meant for slower speeds for the hemstitch - usable, perhaps, for leather sewing. And a question: can the pulleys used on the hemstitcher, originally for the round-leather treadle belt, be used with more modern belts? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I picked up a new-to-me sewing machine at a garage sale last week. I'd never seen one like it, and thought, from the complicated foot mechanism (I couldn't see much in the dim light of the storage shed where it sat for years), that it may be something used for leather. It's a Singer 72W12 Hemstitcher. These are, apparently, pretty rare. It's for creating a particular style of decorative stitch: and old-school (once hand done), vintage-linen stitch. What I thought others here on LW might take note of (other than the coolness factor for those who just dig vintage machines), is the wrought-iron stand and the thick, solid-wood top. I picked this up for a song, and while I'll keep it as is (after putting a few hours into it - cleaning, adjusting, etc.), I thought it showed how some finds can translate to use as parts machines (there was a thread here about How Best to Make a Table Top). This should fit any number of machines. The wood top lends a nice vibe. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Google just about any home machine model, and you're bound to find a Youtube video of it sewing leather and multi layers of denim. And they may, for a bit. But they are not the "industrial-strength" machines they are often said to be in these huckster videos. You'll hear advice here to stay away from these machines for serious leather sewing. I suggest one heed that advice. That said, the 15-91 is a great machine for home use on garment fabric. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Looks like Pfaff 145 to me. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Spinner, can you (or anyone) explain how the "rear support tabs" are used? I can see how the rest of the bag is meant to go together, but have no idea about those tabs. What do they support? Perhaps you could use your new way of working up designs, to see how they look (computer rendering), on this bag. And thanks! This looks like a perfect first project. I'm thinking of adding a gusset to the design. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks you both! I don't know that I'd be particularly interested in stiffening "floppy" bags, but thanks for the suggestion. It's good to know I have options. And it does look like the leather we have is suitable for the bags, etc, we want to sew. I'll definitely be back here for ideas and suggestions. I took a closer look at the "stingray" leather, and it looks like an embossed pattern on cowhide; very interesting. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

This is perhaps a backwards approach to matching leather with its best use, but it's what I've got. I'm hoping those of you with experience might direct me toward the best use of a lot of leather I have. I'm just beginning to get into working with leather, as something of a natural next step from my hobby of working on sewing machine (now industrial machines, and specifically walking-foot machines). A backwards approach, perhaps, in that my wife and I have been gifted quite a bit of leather from someone working in a high-end furniture company - mostly (all?) upholstery-grade leather in about 3 oz. What products is leather of this type best used for? We're thinking: bags, pouches, purses, etc., but haven't exhausted the possibilities, I'm sure. Chrome-tanned, I think; supple, smooth and in a limited variety of colors: dark, med, light brown; tan, buff, fawn, white; grey, muted blues. We just got a roll of what appears to be stingray, though my wife thought she heard something else when she picked it up. None of this is of the type useful for "stand-up" bags - no stiff leather here - no veg-tan, or bridle (as far as I know). Does what I describe have a most appropriate use? Again, though our imaginations may be limiting our range of projects, we're thinking handbags, totes, clutches, etc., with - possibly - belts, straps, buckles, clasps. You get the idea. I'm posting here, as I'm sure I'll be back for info on patterns and templates. Thanks all, Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

Thanks Wiz, I did think think it was probably not something I could use for leather, but it did look interesting. There was another machine with it for free as well, but it seemed clear it was a button machine. I wouldn't know where to begin with something like that! Ian Sf Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

No serial number provided. I saw this on Craigslist for free, and while I emailed the owner, I thought I'd ask here just in case someone recognized it. The owner didn't offer anything else in his ad. As it is, I did miss out. Someone else claimed it before me. Looked to be in good condition, and the table alone looked worthwhile. Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/

I put in a reply for this Singer industrial as a freebie. Can you identify it? Ian SF Bay Area http://imcinnis.blogspot.com/