thekid77

Thank you both for the advice!! I really appreciate it

Hi folks, I have seen plenty of saddle stitched and buck stitched belts and none of the stitching ive seen seems to be causing a ripple effect along the edge. When I am bucktitching a regular vegtan belt, no matter how far from the edge I am, it is causing the leather to buckle......I want to have a perfectly flush edge on the belts I make but am not sure how to achieve this....any advice? Thank you!!

Hey friends, I have an old angled thonging chisel from my grandpa for lacing/buckstitching.....when I compare it to what is being sold at tandy today, the teeth on the lacing chisels at tandy are much less angled....resulting in a buck stitch that just looks like a square and not the classic diamond shape.... I have searched all over the Internet for 1/8" and 3/32" thonging/lacing chisels like my grandpa's but it seems like they just don't make them anymore..... Better yet, reference the angled thonging chisels in the how to buckstitch book by stohlman.....I can't find the angled ones anywhere and it seems that tandy doesn't have them either.... Have they stopped making these all together?

Great, thanks again one more question if I may... I have noticed that when I buckstich a belt, the stitches cause a buckling of the edges of the belt like a wave.....the leather fairly thick......does this happen to you? Any thoughts on how to avoid?thanks!!

Thank you for sharing!!

Thanks:) I do have the stohlman book but I'm still confused unfortunately lol...I do know exactly what you're talking about though....post pics once you finish the belt!!

Anything you can share is greatly appreciated!! Thank you!!

Hey friends, Just wondering what the best way is to navigate around the curved edge (including the tip) of a belt, in terms of spacing the slots and angling them? Do you start away from the tip on one side and just navigate around the perimeter? Or do you begin at the tip of the belt and punch slots for one side, then the other? If you start away from the tip and just punch slots on one side toward the tip, then do the other side, how do you know that once you reach the tip of the belt that the slot will land there and not be off? Sorry if my questions are confusing...thank you in advance for any help you could share!!

Hey friends, I was wondering how to end a line of buckstitching on a single layer of leather? Thank you for any help you can provide!

----------- Thank you for sharing guys!! Much appreciated!

Hi friends, Just wondering if anybody knows if the smell or odors coming from vegetable tanned leather are dangerous? Every time I get home with a new roll it has the strongest smell ever...just wondering if there are any health implications from the odors alone? Thanks!

Thanks for the advice Tom I will definitely need to research and experiment with this more!!

Hi friends, I am currently working on a book cover, and want to line it. I got the cover cut out, and I am trying to line it with sheepskin...I tried just gluing along the perimeter (contact cemented edges only), and it was a nightmare....bubbles everywhere when I tried folding it...also, I believe I made the mistake of gluing the sheepskin flat to the cover...a couple of questions... 1. Do I need to glue the entire surface area of both sides? 2. I know I need to glue the cover on the "curve" as opposed to the pieces being flat when glued, but can you suggest a good way to do this? To avoid bubbles and wrinkles in the liner? Thank you so much!!

Look great Chief!! How do you get the letters so neatly aligned and spaced?

This came out really nice!! I was just thinking about making one of these bags...do you just lay the tabs in before you stitch the ends?

Hey there, I have found that acrylic resolene works way better (cut it 1:1 with water).....I currently take a couple paper towels and fold them into a small square and cover with a piece of old cotton shirt....put that up to the bottle and tip the bottle onto it......blot it out a bit and apply a light coat of resolene, let it dry for a few minutes, then a second light coat.....then buff..... Also the eco stuff does lift up a lot......try the tandy pro waterstains......once they are dry there is very little to no rub off....you can buff them and they almost don't need a top coat.... Dampen and bend the leather first, then dye it to take care of the cracks... Just my experience....hope it helps

In addition to thw other members fantastic suggestions I like the red tandy glue spreaders....you can cover a large or small area quickly and with great control....you will also waste less contact cement and get a more even coat

When I originally posted this question, I should have been more specific...the context of the question are two plies stronger than one (assuming same thickness), was in reference to reinforcing the buckle ends on a leather belt.....my apologies for lack of clarity....the topic has gone six ways from Sunday.... Thank you everyone for your input and for sharing your experience....personally, I feel that two layers laminated together are stronger than one.....not saying this is the truth, but I'm relating it to comparison the strength of single plies of wood vs wood laminates...i don't see why the same theory would not be true for leather

With all due respect, what "old books" are you referring to? And where does it say this..not trying get to argue just trying to learn......lots of info out there, some bad and some good..

Could you be more specific about your reference in the Hasluck book? I found the book but I don't see that info in there... How about a page number? Thanks

Thank you for the input.....another question if I may... From ym experience, when properly "set", contact cement such as dapper weldwood from the red can is virtually indestructible....to get the leather to separate you'd have to destroy the article, whatever it may be, from my experience.......just my opinion, but I feel like dapp doesn't really need stitching to reinforce it.... Thoughts?

Thank you for sharing.....so, even if they wind up to be the same thickness, according to what chief said (see above comment), they are "much stronger" because there are two grain sides resisting get each other....do you agree or disagree with the this? Thank you

Hi John! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge Much appreciated!!

Thank you for sharing Chief, much appreciated