Sjm1027

Thanks, Yes the pinky is pretty much chewed up... hehehe... Thanks for the tips. I will continue to learn the correct process. That would be great if you come across the pinky protector thanks for the help Steve

I was reading a sewing book and it stressed to make sure you keep the awl in your hand and never drop the needles. Well I gave that a try today, first project that i sewed so I had a heck of a time. I have a few questions: 1, The book said to use the marking wheel to make the marks for the awl holes. The person at Tandy told me to hammer the holes into the leather using a 3 pronged tool and I did but I noticed I had to punch the leather over again to make sure the needle could go through both pieces. The book tells you to only use the wheel and punch holes after each stitch. What do you all do? 2, I used waxed thread, threaded the needles with no problem, made a knot in the middle and waxed the ends near the needles to stick the small piece to the main thread. Once I broke the thread by sticking the needle into the thread and one strand got messed up. Is it better to get linen unwaxed thread and wax it your self or is pre-waxed ok to use? Ok time to get a bandage to cover the blister from the thread!

Yes that's the stuff I was looking for. I remember reading about it in the Leather workers Manual. Thanks ~S

Yes, you mean the ol jackhammer!!

I have seen a few examples of this and would like to know when using the background tool I want to fade the texture out away from the subject. I just don't get it to look quite right. I don't have that gradual fading technique... Do you all just hammer lighter to the end or also use the modeling tool or a smooth stamp to help take out the texture to get the desired results? Thanks, ~S

Before you dye your leather is there something you can use to clean it so you get a uniform color across the surface. I notice the piece I am wetting now seems to be not so uniform. I have Lexol PH but I believe this is cleaner and conditioner. Not sure what to use on leather that has never been dyed and sealed. Thanks ~S

Thanks Clay, I will have at it tomorrow and try some test stampings. -S

I am working on a project and beveling around a flower on the outside and notice I needed a smaller size stamp... about small to medium. As I was stamping I went back and noticed that there are waves on the leather between hits... so on the bevel side it is not to smooth... small waves. I used a modeling tool to smooth over these areas and it does look better but is there a way to not let that happen... All I can figure is I am stamping the bevel tool to far apart only overlapping the hit 1/2 the tool face?? Thanks in advance Steve

Is there a formula to figure out how much thread to use on a project? If I have a rectangle I need to sew together and I add all the sides lengths up to total 28 inches how long of a piece of thread should I use? Thanks, -S

Thanks so it is dragged across the leather? I get it now

Can someone explain how the Tandy Hair Blade works. I was looking at it today and thought it was a detail cutter, like a small blade but while inspecting it I noticed it has ridges on both sides. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...number=88013-00 Thanks Steve

I am making a eye glass case and will be using 5 oz leather for the outside and 2 oz pigskin for a liner. I have cut both front and back out but when I put them together one is just a little bit off. No if this was wood I could sand the edges and make them both exact but can something like this be done with leather after I sew it? Is the process for the pig skin lining to rubber cement it to the front and back pieces and then sew everything together? Question on the cutting process. When I was cutting out my 2 pieces, front and back I did it with my swivel blade then went back over it with a knife. Is there a better way to do this? Thanks, Steve

Cool Idea, I like it... Do you have more? Steve

I have been spending a lot of my time tooling leather but now I am ready to make something simple. So I have a simple eyeglass case I want to make and have a couple of questions. I have leather (6oz) seems a little to thick the directions say not to use less than 3 oz and not to use more than 5 oz leather. I have 6 oz leather on hand and I will give it a try anyway. While reading the directions I came across a few things that weren't clear: The directions said to rubber cement the tracing film to the leather?? I know that masking tape messes up the leather but rubber cement? Not sure if it will mess up the leather when it's time to dye the leather I would have problems? So the directions said to wet the leather, then soap the leather, glue the leather and film with rubber cement, then place the tracing film on the wet leather. What is the soap for? What function does the soap do. Who knew an eye glass case would stir up so many questions? Thanks, Steve

Hi K-Man, I found this link and it lists sizes. Hope this helps http://www.ccsaddlebags.com/tankpanels.html Steve

Yes that worked fine, Thanks... I have it now

Still not working but thanks for trying!

Yes your right, See the trouble is I work in electronics and in my job everything is regimented... everything has to be done per standards, you have a process and follow it... you make one that works through this process and anything you make using the process usually comes out correct. I believe that is why I fell in love with tooling leather so quickly... no boundaries use your imagination... very nice feeling but you can't teach an old dog new tricks... I am working on training myself to relax, sit back, look things over and just have fun. Johanna, thanks for reminding me to relax use my imagination. SJM1027- for custom orders like that it is easiest to create your own pattern. Use some cheap fabric or a heavy paper bag from a store to make a pattern you like. It lets you see where your attachments and hardware needs to be before you start cutting your leather. To make a glasses case you just need to fold a piece of leather, with one stitch line. The glasses will slide in and out. Stich a half piece with it on one side for a pocket. Upgrade and sell the customer an attractive case that fits on his belt or with a shoulder strap and enough room for a camera. You are only limited by imagination. Johanna

Nice work indeed... You have to be proud of that! Steve

Thanks, I will do just that!

Yes I thought about that... I am right handed... The tool just feels weird in my hand... I will bring it in this week, maybe they will all have a laugh... I may be holding it wrong

Thanks, I'll bring it to Tandy this week and see if they can figure it out Steve

I just purchased this groover and am trying to cut a grove into 8 oz leather. This is a new tool and it just seems to make a groove but it's rough... Is this done on dry leather? I must be missing something. Steve

Yes I know about the side... What I mean about grain is, when you layout a pattern... does the leather / project direction matter... With wood you must always keep the grain in mind. I did read this morning that closer to the spine the leather is close fiber so the leather will wear better and this should be used in handle or strap areas verses belly leather. I am talking cutting direction. Steve

I am a beginner so I am looking for things like: (Actually I have more questions that you could ever imagine) : Monthly showcase of some project, explaining how it was made. Explain leather, what type and sizes to use when. How To articles Patterns Ads Looks like Leather The Crafters & Saddlers Journal is what I may be looking for.