JohnBloch

I have bought some stamps from ST-Leather, a local wholesale place in saint louis, and they are only $4 a piece, some of them aren't that great, but others have been fine.

Yo, I know this thread is pretty dead, but I just wanted to ask where edges fit in if I am not using an edge-coat product. Is constructing the piece first more ideal? Aka, dying everything, constructing, and then edging? I'm just worried about using a sealer or finish before I do the edges. Thanks. Oh also Sylvia, I know your post is a year old, but I've just tried both, and as far as a consistent color, I've found that piling after dying works best, and is darker.

Oh my lord. I've had all the tools to do this, but for some reason thought I needed a lathe. My brain never ceases to amaze me. Like the other guys have said, wood would probably be ideal, but I'm curious as to how abs would differ. Get some gum trag or another edging product and I bet your edges will be looking slick! As for me, I know what I'm doing tonight!

I went to my local auto store and purchased a "pre vail" it's not an airbrush, but it's a start. Anyway, my question was more about dyes. I've got an eco flo all in one that I want to spray over with fiebings professional oil dye. Will this work? I don't think that the all in one dyes are very good at sealing themselves and or resisting, but I'm just not sure. Any insight on this would be great!

I can understand where you are coming from. I get pretty bent out of shape when I screw something up, but handcrafted items are always going to have variances. I feel like even the people who are the best at anything, be it leatherworking, woodworking, any kind of art or craft, can find imperfections in their work. It's about learning from the imperfections, they will never go away completely, but it takes mess ups to get better!

Yeah, I didn't put any shell holders on it. Someday I may get into SASS and want to have a specific size.

I made this piece for my Halloween costume, and it's what really got me started in the hobby. I just figured I would post it here. The lady at tandy kept trying to get me to buy a pattern but I knew better. =P

Hmm. Well I bought size .18 which was the largest they had, but it does seem kind of small. However, I did at one point buy a tandy stitching awl needle because I thought it would fit in a stitching awl I own (and it doesn't) do maybe that will do the trick, I feel like it might leave pretty big holes though. My main problem is that I want to get started on this project this week (seeing that I'll have Friday to work on it as well) but my local tandy is like 45 minutes away. I've attached a picture of my sewing awl needle just to see what you think. The fact that it has the ridges on the channel that let's the thread run through the awl might prove to be a problem though. I'll try it out on a couple scrap peices and see what it looks like.

Any clue on the needle size? I'm at a fabric store now.

I recently purchased a saddle bag pattern, and the pattern has no stitching holes marked (I'm not sure what I was expecting) but I'm converting the bag itself into more of a purse per say. My question is, if I score an equidistant line from each edge, and then run the stitch spacer around it, will my holes line up exactly when I go to stitch it up?(with the front, back, and the gusset) You're probably saying "well, just mark the front and back portions of the bag, cement them, and awl your way through to the backside" But the problem is that I've never used an awl, I've always used a drill press, and I don't think I will be able to make it work on this project. I'm just wondering what y'all think, I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to stitching gussets, so I figured i might just ask what you all think. Thanks.

There needs to be one that says "not "ginune leather""

That is pretty sweet!

This is not my pouch, and it's a but more complex, but it's got a finger acess hole that looks like it wouldn't be hard to replicate. If this is your first project this design might be a little harder since it involves stitching. Good luck and have fun!

I did however mock up a paper version last night, I'm just wondering if a piece of neats oiled veg tan will have a little more give. I feel like the answer to my problem is to just make the whole pouch wider, which will in turn allow for more give. I'll keep fiddling with it for a while, but I have so many things I want to make for people I need to just settle up and get cutting.

Here's the deal, my brother has a slew of pipes, and I would prefer him to choose which pipe he would like to use in it, and it's all a surprise. While I agree that a wet formed pouch/case would be awesome, I don't think wet forming is really an option.

The feibing's royal blue pro oil dye isn't that far from that shade, but I'm not sure if that's what they used =\

Hello! I've made several things out of leather, a holster, a gun belt, spur straps and cowboy cuffs, but I haven't ever made anything resembling a bag, so I figured I would ask a couple questions. I'm making my brother a tobacco and pipe roll up pouch as a Christmas present, and I'm concerned about the actual pouch section. To give you a rough estaminet of what I'm going for, I've attached a photo below. My question is, when I fold the flap over to make the pouch for the pipe, will it have enough space and or give to fit the pipe in it? I will be working with unlined 3-4oz veg tan, and I'm just concerned that when I stitch it up there won't be enough space. I figure the other option is to angle the cut so as to make it have a wider mouth when I stitch up the pouch, but I'm afraid that I won't like how it looks. What do you guys think?