Jump to content

stef73433

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    180

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by stef73433

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, I don't think I asked my question in the way I intended. I understand how to create the paper pattern. My dilemmais actually cutting my angles perfect so that they match the template once cut. I can be a slight bit off the pattern after I cut and I sure can see it in my work. Here's a pic of what I mean by the angles, etc. this piece came out ok, but some of them are "off"

    post-36557-0-83013900-1377317981_thumb.j

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I dyed my roughout saddle fenders with a fiebings oil dye, mocasin brown. I am having alot of run off, so I think i should seal it. I tried some resolene on scraps, that makes leather all hard and nasty feeling.

    Am I missing a step after the resolene to make it soft again, or wrong product?

    Any advice would be great. I just dont know what to do to lock that dye in. Pretty new to me still.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    hum,

    i would vote for welt or lacing....

    reminds me of the Legcut bowman i had ......Keith Siedel told me it was "possible" to cover it without welt or lacing (see one of his legcut bowman covered without welt)

    I can tell you = i tried , failed and gone at last for the welt.....

    i guess you can do it if your piece of leather is really really really stretchy .....and even though....not sure it would do

    Good luck ;)

    and do not forget :

    If Plan "A" did not work....the alphabet has 25 more letters ...so stay cool"

    :D

    Thanks for response!!! I opted for plan L- laced welts!!!!!!

  24. Posted · Report reply

    OK...that's a photo I posted earlier this year. This saddle had a rear jockey so the installment of the flank ring is different than a set of skirts without a rear jockey. With that said: first, determine the design of your skirts and block them. This is easier done prior to putting in your seat. After installing your seat, come back to your skirts and align your top piece. Cut your leather oversize on the outside edges of your bottom piece. Using rubber cement glue the bottom and top pieces together to insure fit. Fitting up includes rigging placement.

    When satisfied with the skirts on the tree, remove the skirts from the tree (without pulling the cemented skirts apart) and compare them to each other to insure they're alike. Trim your top piece to match the bottom piece and attach your rigging plates and dees. Check your edges once more, sanding them if necessary to insure that they are cut at a 90 degrees. When satisfied, sew them together about 3/8ths of an inch from edge.

    If your skirting leather is light weight, you can install filler pieces as you would regular skirts; however, this isn't necessary with heavy weight leather and does increase bulk.

    These skirts are held into place on the bars with screws at the fork, at the cantle corner at the bars (covered by seat jockey), and rear rosettes or conchos.

    The sheepskin is installed as usual and the sitch line is about 3/16ths from the edge.

    I'm old, but not an old saddle maker. This method has worked for me on three saddles without any client complaints, knock on wood. Hope this helps,

    Ron

    When you say sheepskin installed as usual, could you explain what "usual" means to you? (when in the process would you sew it and would you sew to just bottom layer, or to both layers of skirt? I dont like the look of the 2 rows of stitching, but i will do it if not a better way.

×
×
  • Create New...