cmantz

I had to see 8 nosebands tonight on the new Toro 3000 that I picked up this pat weekend. It went pretty well for my first time but I did notice on one noseband I had an area with a few skipped stitches. What would cause that? It only happened on one noseband. Thanks Chris

All the sets I have seen have rivets where the buckles are attached (tug straps on breastcollar, throat strap on headstall, cheeks on headstall) How else would you secure the buckles?

I am going to attempt my first tack set. I have nothing as far as hardware is concerned. So, going through the Weaver catalog making up a list of stuff I need to order. I have buckles, d-rings, and my center ring picked out for the breast collar. Now...what do I need as far as rivets? I am assuming these are pretty standard. What is the difference between the "Jiffy" rivet and the "tubular" rivet? Do I want a double cap rivet? What is the best choice if I have to set these rivets by hand? I am getting a spot/rivet setter but for now I will just do these by hand. What sizes should I have in stock? What about chicago screws? Or would rivets be better? What size hole punch would I need to pre-punch these holes? And lastly snaps...oh my, so many different choices? which swivel snaps do I want? Thanks in advance.. Chris

I am getting ready to attempt my first tack set... Questions for you: what type/weight leather did you use for this? I think I am going to make a 2 ply breast collar and wonder if it is better to two pieces that are the same weight of if you could use a heavier weight for the front and a lighter weight for the lining. I am also going to do an overlay with spots...but probably use hair-on hide. I am assuming you just glued your overlay and then spotted. I have seen some sets that have stitched around the overlay before they added the spots. I wonder if that is necessary? What kind of spot setter do you have? Looking to make a decision on one this week. Setting spots by hand is definitely not my thing! Off to do some research on hardware for my new project.. Thanks Chris BTW...looks great your first one. LOVE the look!

I just saw that you asked a question...and I never answered. I am sorry. It was not intentional. There are tabs on the nosebands that I either fold back or forward and I attach them to the halters with the conchos. This way customers can change them out if need be or they can just buy the noseband and put them on their own halter. I have seen them with tabs that are folded to the front and sewn to the noseband.

very nice job! I wouldn't know where to start and I have sewn all my life

definitely separate in case she every needs to adjust for a different horse.

I have a Universal 30 watt laser (12"x24" bed). Go to my profile and you can see the images I uploaded of some of the items we have lasered. I am just starting out with the leather...be doing this about a month...so still learning. We have had the laser for 7-8 years and primarily use it for awards, plastics, signs...we also have a sandblaster (for wine bottles, glass, stone, etc) so he uses the laser to create the mask for the sandblaster. We also do some delrin stamps and acrylic templates. I may pick your brain when I start my first breast collar. I need to figure out what I need as far as hardware. Where is the best place to get those (considering I don't want to buy it lots right off the bat)? What size rings, buckles, etc. Do I cut the straps that attached the breast collar to the saddle or do you buy those precut? I don't have a strap cutter so what is the best way to cut straps? How to attach buckles and rings? Do I need to use rivets? Chris

see this topic http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27217 you will see a picture for an adjustable spot tool. This is what i use. Or you can use an exacto knife to make small slits in your leather.

I think it looks GREAT!!! Isn't it funny how we, as the makers, can look at something and see all the flaws but yet others look at it and think it looks perfect? I can't see any "glitches"..that is for sure. I love. I have yet to tackle my first breast collar...but it is on the books as I finally got a sewing machine. Chris

I have the spot setter from Tandy and it is ok. Here is what I have done. I bought the adjustable awl. I work on one of the rubber mats. I mark my spots with the awl so that it doesn't go through the leather all the way. Place the spots in the slits..they are in about half way. Then use the spot setter you just posted to set them in the leather. Turn the leather over and push the prongs over by with nail set (like you would use to countersink small nails in trim work). You can then place the leather, upside down, in the little "tray" thing they provide, with the spot in the right size circle and then hammer the prongs flat as long as the spots aren't too close together. All this is a pain! And definitely not a way to make any money considering the amount of time it takes to do it. Just my opinion.

See that is what I am saying. It is upside down. The other spot setters load on the top and you put your work facing up so you can see where you are placing your spot. With this you would be working upside down...and in my opinion, that just won't work because you won't be able to see you work as the leather would have the finished side facing down. How do you know where your spots you are placing would be in relation to the other spots? Not practical and probably a waste of money. You would be better to set them by hand.

this is similar to the Little Wonder by Weaver. I wonder how much the dies are for it? I think Springfield Leather has something similar as well for about the same price. Oh...it looks like it is bottom loading. Not sure if I would like that as it would be impossible to see where you are putting the spots.

Did you get the 4 prong rims or the two? The ones I get are two prong rims so you can set the with an adjustable spot tool (do a google image search and you will see it). But I had to file the prongs down so they were narrower and didn't leave such a big slit in the leather and they work better. But I QUICKLY realized it is a pain to set these and in my opinion...not a way to make any money doing it by hand. Also, I ordered some rims and stones and tried to do them myself and again, it might be a little more expensive to order them put together but in the end I can't do it fast enough to save any money. My time with worth money and anything I can get to speed up the process and do it more efficiently will actually make me money in the end.

I am pretty sure most are done with rim set rhinestones. It seems like the rivets would be top expensive. They aren't fun to set by hand. I am looking at the spot setter made by Standard Rivet Co to set both spots and rim set rhinestones. It is a manual machine but a good price for entry level machine. Price is $595 and includes two dies...your choice of size. Rim set die was around $70. Weaver also makes one that is very similar As far as suppliers, I get mine from Dreamtime Creations. They make a "bling in a ring" and you can get any color stone set...either Swarovski or Preciosa. They don't do acrylics. You ca also buy the stones and rims seperately and set them yourself in the rim. Hope this helps. Chris

Thanks for the info on the sale. I didn't realize they were running a special. I will check it out tomorrow.

I have talked to Bob as I was looking at a new Cowboy but then ran across this used machine. I will call him tomorrow. Not sure why I didn't think about him

I would like buy a spot setter. I am looking at the hand/foot machines from either Standard Rivet or Weaver. Does anyone have any recommendation on which is better? I know Standard comes with a 100% money back guarantee. Price is $595 and includes two dies of your choice. The one from Weaver is a little less expensive when you figure in the cost of the dies. Thanks Chris

I picked up a used Artisan 3000 today. Glad to find a good deal on one that was relatively close to me. Now what do I need as far as thread? Needles? Extras? It came with only the left pressure foot. It does have the roller guide and the wax pot. Do I need any of the other feet? Different plates? Where is the best place to buy industrial thread and needles? I don't think my current embroidery thread supplier would carry it. Thanks in advance! Chris

sent you a PM...very interested.

I am also new to leather work and trying to get the hang of the stains, resists, antiques, finishes etc. I quickly found out that I am not a fan of Tandy's Eco stuff or their gel antiques. And I really don't like the All-in-One from Tandy. I tried some of that followed by the gel antique on my first job and it did not work at all...the gel antique stained areas of the leather darker where apparently the all-in-one didn't protect good enough. I have been using the Fiebings Acrylic Stains and then I use the Fiebings Leather Sheen if I want an all over coat before I antique. Or I use Super Sheen if I want to resist an area. Then I use the Fiebings antique paste. I found it works much better than the gel antique. Then of course follow up with the Leather Sheen as a top coat. I am not completely happy with acrylic stains for a dye and would like to try some of the different dyes..but thats another story. Good luck...keep experimenting Chris

I am curious what extras come with the Cowboy 4500 compared to the Cobra Class 4P?... I am pretty sure I have narrowed down my choice to either one of these. If I could only find a used one!

Pete.....I have a question for you. I have a laser also (Universal 30watt) and have just starting doing leather. I cut out a noseband for a rope halter last night and included the stitching holes for hand sewing (most of my stuff I have machine sewn but this was just a small item that I figured wouldn't take much to hand sew). But I noticed my thread was REALLY discolored by the time I got to the end. Maybe my holes were too small (.035") and the waxed thread was picking up some of the burnt leather on the way through. The thread on your pictures looks cleaner than mine. I am using horse leather (as I think it lasers much better than veg tan leather) so maybe due to the coarser grain I am having to set my power/speed higher...causing more burn. I would be curious what wattage laser he is using and what settings. Chris

jealous

I have used embossing powder when doing stamping on cardstock. You use a clear ink on your stamp, stamp on the card stock, pour embossing powder on top, shake off excess. The powder sticks to the ink you have stamped and then you heat with a heat gun. This creates a raised image on your cardstock.