Jump to content

Tim Schroeder

CFM
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    769

  • Joined

  • Last visited

5 Followers

About Tim Schroeder

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday November 10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Leatherworking and Fishing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    No real specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Making Saddles and Boots

Recent Profile Visitors

21,388 profile views

Single Status Update

See all updates by Tim Schroeder

  1. Sheilajeanne

    Hi, Tim,

    Just wanted to say I am a great fan of your work. It's some of the best I've ever seen on Leatherworker.net, and I am wondering if you can give me some tips.

    I started doing leatherwork last fall when I bought a starter kit from Tandy, which included 8 weeks of free lessons. I am now thoroughly hooked! I moved in January, and that was the beginning of a long hiatus from leatherwork. I am only now getting into it again, and know I have a lot to learn.

    Questions -

    1) How do you get such remarkably smooth, even beveling? You'd almost swear your work was stamped rather than carved! I see you use a smooth beveler around the outside of your design, but what about on the inside of the carving? 

    2) Of course, due to time constraints in the leatherworking classes, we'd just moisten our projects with a sponge. Is Hidepounder's method of casing leather REALLY that much superior? What's the best way to tell if the leather is properly cased?

    3) The finish on  you work is absolutely first-class! Can you please tell this newbie how you achieve it? From reading your posts, I know you use Fiebing's dye, thin it and spray it on with an auto sprayer. In projects like the recent ones you did for your wife (computer case, etc.) how did you keep the dye off the areas you want to highlight? Did you use gel antique for highlighting the carving, or just let the dye stay in the cuts? And what is the order of the steps you use for dyeing and finishing your work?

    Thanks for your time, and KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!

    Jane, in Ontario, Canada

     

    Tim Schroder1.jpg

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. Sheilajeanne

      Sheilajeanne

      Tim,

      Okay, now I'm a bit confused. You said you sprayed the dye on but now you're saying you brush it on. Let me see if I've got the steps right:

      !) Spray with the brown dye - whole piece

      2) Use a brush to dye the background and border of the carving with black dye. Use a pen on edges. Borders can be done with trimmed wool.

      3) Spray 2 light coats of Wyo-Sheen, buffing in between coats

      4) Spread Antique finish on carved areas with a piece of wool, remove excess with t-shirt and wood block

      5) Remove Wyo-Sheen from borders with deglazer solution to give a matte finish (optional)

      6) Use wool to apply Tandy Satin sheen to whole piece.

      7) Let dry and then buff.

      I think I've got it - is that correct? :)  Can the pen be used to touch up small areas in the background, instead of a brush?

       

      Jane

       

    3. Tim Schroeder

      Tim Schroeder

      Yes spray the the tooling brown then brush and trimmed wool the black. The  dye pen is 3/4" wide like a big fat marks a lot sharpie. You have to use a small brush on the background.

    4. Sheilajeanne

      Sheilajeanne

      Got it - that's what I thought.

      One more question: looking down the road here to when I have some spare cash - which of Barry King's bevelers do you use the most?

×
×
  • Create New...