Bigfoote
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Posts posted by Bigfoote
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There are three topics that are best avoided on leather working forums, Sharpening, Oiling, and Gluing! Best to find out what works best for you and use it. There are no right or wrong in these topics, just differing opinions.
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I use Rhynowet sand paper to sharpen my tools all the time. 800 grit is great to start with but way too coarse to finish. I use 2500 to finish my tools with. when you get your tools real sharp, strop them every use and then you won't have to sharpen ever.
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try some JB weld, any hardware carries it.
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I gave up on Barge, too many fumes. I use a bunch of different latex based ones, they all work great!
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I use 3-4oz for exterior, 1oz for interiors, 4oz for interiors is way too thick.
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I'm sure he will like it! Looks great!
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You have to make sure your holding your chisel straight up and down, don't lean it or the back will be out of line. The backing isn't that important. Cut a small wood block, and use it to hold your chisel 90 degrees to your leather until you get used to holding it properly.
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Fiebings pro dye solved all these problems for me. The USMC black bleeds a lot so stay away from it.
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Yes open a Canadian site, would be awesome!
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Wow, nice job! What more can you say???
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Everyone has a slightly different technique, and method of antiquing and use of other products. You have to do a little experimenting and find out what works for you, then stick with your process. I use gel antique for dye, have for years because it works for me. I also use resolene for a resist, and top coat, but others use different products. Whatever works for you is the proper method, and you won't find that process unless you mess around a bit. That is what that big pile of scrap leather is for, and if you don't have any, most leather shops sell small chunks of leather cheap.
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Start in the middle, between the two layers, leave a tag end about two inches, go through one layer to come out one side, two or three rounds through both layers, end up coming out in the middle between the layers, then continue over to the opposite side, come out one side or the other, go around two or three times through both layers, and end up coming out in the middle between both layers. Take the end of your thread and make a reef knot with the tag you left when you started. The knot will be hidden between the two layers and as long as you tie a good knot will never come undone or be seen. Done with one needle, hope this helps.
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On 5/14/2019 at 6:30 AM, Rossr said:Looks like a well executed sheath. I do wonder about one thing the rectangular box stitched across the belt loop. I wonder if that is a weak point so to speak. I have read where doing that on a belt makes it weak over time due to the holes. Just food for thought. Love the carving work and its a tight package that will last the user a long long time
Ross
It's 8 Oz leather, don't think it will be a problem. It's also glued.
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On 5/21/2019 at 4:53 PM, AlexOstacchini said:Very tidy- What resist was used on the lighter areas?
Resolene.
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Thanks guys!
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33 minutes ago, YinTx said:I agree, it turned out great! But I must say, you violated rule #1 - must show blade, as I was aptly informed when I posted the sheath I made.
YinTx
Ok then. Just for you
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Wow Rohn, that is a beauty, really like the lace on that, cute little gun!
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Finished this up the other day, WC 8oz, medium brown Eco Flo gel antique, sewn with tiger thread. I think it turned out great!
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9 hours ago, jrny4wrd said:Do you think, or noticed if, the Tyvek weakens when it is perforated by the threading needle? I just made 2 and stitched mine as well. Then I was thinking, will it cause it to rip? I hate thinking double sided tape is the only thing holding it.
Punch a row of holes in a piece of Tyvek and try to rip it, bet you won't be able to. It's pretty tough. I really don't trust just the tape either, but lots of makers do and it seems to work. I sew mine with a 5 SPI chisel, not so many holes, and quick!
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I have a set the same. The black paint doesn't help them slide out, actually seems to make them stick. I sanded mine with 600 grit, then 800 grit till they were bare metal, then use beeswax on them fairly often. I also strop them every once in a while. They work fine now.
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I'm not a carver, I'm a stamper! Haven't done any carving at all, but did watch Don's videos and thought I'm bored, hey why not give it a try? I don't have half the tools he recommends, don't even have a flower center, lol. I have been doing leather for many years and consider myself fairly good. Any way just for a laugh here is my take on this pattern. I'm not going to buy any more carving tools because I don't really enjoy carving. Not looking for corrective criticism because I won't be doing this again for a while. That all said Don's a pretty good teacher.
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Yes I've had the same problem, partially solved by using one of these.
Does anyone recognize this stamp?
in Stamping
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Fredk is right, that is two stamps. Look closely they vary, stamps don't change shape.