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Everything posted by rfkoen

  1. This is a Harbor Freight Arbor press modified by a professional machine shop to accept Tandy dies. The ram and anvil were drilled out to accept Tandy dies, and a thumb screw was added to the ram to lock the top die in place. The anvil is spot welded (no longer turns) to hold proper alignment for the dies. In addition, it works incredibly well for 3D stamps, letter stamps, etc. I will include a metal plate you can place over the anvil for doing 3D stamping. I would put the leather on the metal plate, position the stamp, then put the plate on the anvil to stamp. With packaging shipping weight will be around 40Lbs. Price will be $100 + shipping costs. Shipping costs will be roughly $25 for 5-7 days USPS or USPS Priority Mail is 2-3 days and would cost around $40. Will only ship to the United States. Message me with any questions. Thanks! arbor press-compressed.pdf arbor with dies-compressed.pdf arbor press ram-compressed.pdf
  2. I use a Harbor Freight Arbor press drilled to take the Tandy dies. I also have a Tandy Hand Press, and have started using it most of the time for snaps. The arbor press does great with rivets, but you really need a fine touch with snaps. It is too easy to use too much force which distorts the snap either as you are seeing or in worse cases affects the snaps ability to function correctly. If I'm using the arbor press I pretty much have to stop as soon as I feel a little resistance. With the Tandy press I have to be standing up putting most of my weight on the handle, but I've never over done a snap with Tandy press. Hope this helps!
  3. Lowering price to $3500 OBO. He really wants to move these machines! I'm helping a friend of a friend by posting these. He is a retired leather worker and is trying to sell his remaining equipment, 2 very large clicker presses. I saw both in operation. His main stipulation is that the buyer needs to take both units. The Schwabe is I believe a 25 ton hydraulic clicker press. The Fales is about the same size but is mechanical. He is willing to negotiate on price and may be able to help arrange shipping (buyer would pay shipping costs.) If you are a serious buyer I can put you in direct contact with him. Thanks for looking!
  4. My daughter is a cosmetologist and at a recent visit to her new shop I saw several stylists using a leather tool pouch to hold combs, scissors, clips, etc. Any idea where I could find a pattern for these pouches?
  5. I'm also having difficulty seeing how all the parts go together for the interior. Was the tutorial mentioned in the comments ever put together? Thanks for any help you can provide!
  6. Anyone in central Indiana have a 1/2 HP clutch or servo motor for sale?
  7. Motor says FDM clutch motor model DOL12L
  8. My wife just turned on ojr machine and we smelled ozone and the machine had a slight hum but not its usual running noise. Where is the most likely place to.start for.figuring out the problem?
  9. I'm using the Tandy Ashford heavy duty clasp to repair a pool cue case. The machine screws that came with it are too short for my application. Does anyone know what the screw size is so I can purchase some longer screws? Local hardware stores have limited options for screws that size, and I have not found the right fit yet. I believe it is a #3 but not positive of that. I would also need the thread count. Thanks for any help you can provide! https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/ashford-heavy-duty-bag-clasp-nickel-plate?sSearch=ashford
  10. Okay, here is a strange question. We make leather koozies that we sell at shows. They are riveted together, and have a leather handle in addition to the leather that goes around the can. We like to personalize them with a separate leather rectangle with names, decorative stamps, or even conchos. I typically rivet this little panel in place as well. My problem is that it is difficult to rivet the leather customization piece to the koozie after the koozie is already made. To get the leather into the press you have kind of crunch the body together to reach the rivets. I think if we could use pop rivets it would be quick and very simple to add the custom patches to an already made koozie. Have any of you ever used pop rivets to hold 2 pieces of leather together? My two concerns are: Can you get the rivet to set and break off the stem without pulling it through one or both layers of leather? If you do set it, will there be any sharp edges to the rivet that would be a potential hazard to someone using it? Thanks for any help or suggestions you can provide!
  11. I see the C-clamp being used to hold the letters together once you have spelled out what you want to emboss. What do you use to actually press the letters into the leather?
  12. I'm not sure if there is such a thing, but is there some sort of portable system that could be used to engrave names on leather bracelets? Although I put all my creative energy into hats, journals, specialty cases, etc, it seems like most of my sales at shows are for leather bracelets. Right now I stamp names by hand and probably lose some sales because of the time it takes. Is there a portable system option that would give me a couple different fonts for engraving names on bracelets? Thanks for any help you can provide!
  13. I recently received a large order (well large for me LOL!) for luggage tags with "Happy Retirement" and a date stamped on them. I would ideally like to get 2 custom stamps, one that says "Happy" and the other "Retirement" since I can see reusing at least the Happy part. Any suggestions on the best sources for having custom stamps made affordably? Thanks for any information you can provide!
  14. Thanks Samalan! That makes more sense to me now. I will give that a try!
  15. For karlpv, the math does help! I hadn't thought in terms of being able to calculate the circumference reduction needed. For samalan, I did skive the edge to make it easier to fold it over and glue it in place before sewing. I guess I'm not seeing how I can do that fold over and reduce the wrinkles without some notches. Can you go a little deeper with your explanation because it has my brain working overtime right now LOL!
  16. Made my first western style hat straight from the Tandy "Hombre" pattern. It seems a bit tall to me, so I'm planning to make the next one with the crown about an inch shorter. This is my first hat using a wire in the brim so the wearer can shape the brim to their choosing (I wet molded my prior hat brims so the wearer was stuck with how I shaped it!) The one issue I ran into with adding the wire was that the wrap around bunched up a bit in places underneath. I think I can alleviate this by cutting some notches out to take up some of the slack that was generated when the edge was folded over. How many notches will I most likely need to smooth this out? Thanks for any comments or feedback you can provide!
  17. Thanks Wizcrafts! We bought a Singer pressor foot with an edge guide that is working great. As a side note, my delay in some of these responses was from a self induced vacation from leather work recuperating from quadruple bypass. Not the recommended way to lose weight (I'm down 25 pounds!) or get the summer off LOL!
  18. Finally realized the machine did need 135X17 needles, and the leather needles I thought were that size were actually shorter. Once I got the leather needles in a 135X17 size it is sewing like a champ. Thanks to everyone for the help!
  19. When I was hand sewing projects I would use contact cement to hold everything together while I punched holes and then completed the lacing. I'm guessing that the contact cement would not be good for a sewing machine and its needles. What is the best way to hold projects together while you are sewing? I'm sewing the veg tanned milled leather (a bit softer and 2-3 oz) with a standard 2-3 oz veg tanned leather. Thanks for any help you can provide!
  20. Is there an adjustment we need to make on the machine to use the 135X17 needles? They just look so much shorter than the needle in the machine now.
  21. The needles we bought are 135X17, but they are a lot shorter than the needles that were with the machine when we bought it.
  22. We have a Tacsew T111-155 machine. We are sewing 2 layers of 2-3 oz leather. We bought #138 thread and #22 needles. The needles are way shorter than the original needles in the machine. Did we get the wrong needles, or is there a trick to using these needles with the machine? Thanks for any help you can provide!
  23. I believe I read in another post that the Tacsew T111-155 machine can take Singer 111 pressor feet and attachments? Can anyone here confirm whether or not that is true? Thanks for any help you can provide!
  24. How well do the edge guides work that are built into the pressor foot? I realize the distance from the edge is not adjustable, but right now all our edge sewing is the same fixed width.
  25. Okay, another noob question. How do we adjust stitching in the corners to work out properly? We are sewing rectangular items and having an issue where ending on the current stitch is too far from the edge to start running down the next side, and doing one more stitch puts us over the edge or too close for the next side. How do we handle the corners?
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