Davm

Just getting into lacing. Now I need a fid. A lot of tutorials have punched holes, well fast and easy but when you're done the holes are visible. So, what's the drill? I plan to punch slits (I have 1 prong, 3 prong and four prong also slanted. These slits will allow once pass but on a braided edge you go through the same hole twice and need a biggger slit but not as big as a hole, so... I am guessing that's the purpose of the fid, to enlarge the hole so you can make a second pass through that hole. For a beginner such as myself, using 1/8" leather lace, what would be a good fid? I have a Tandy store near where I live and buy most of my supplies there but will consider other options as well. I first was using rawhide, some of which I cut. I got the width okay but home made rawhide can be too thick in many instances. You can get away with it on a plain wrap but it is too thick to braid an edge. I've switched to leather.

Well last night I tried the second method and I like it better in the respect that you start at one end and continue the the far end and are done and it covers both sides of the edge very well. Thanks once again.

Well, last night I tried method one and that's more of what I want, the entire edge pretty much covered with the lace. I used leather rather than rawhide. I noticed the page was 296 so what book was it from and is the book worth buying? The only book I have right now is a Tandy leather work manual which is about 1/2" thick, are there any more extensive leather work books covering more aspects? And, thanks again. One reason I like the rawhide is that the contrast is nice and rawhide is tough but with multiple wraps of leather lace- it seems it ought to last a long time.

Thanks I'm going to try the Bruce Grant methods, I think that is what I am looking for. As I said the Tandy method leaves a lot of material really above the edge with the lace then protruding by itself to the holes- if that makes sense.

I want a way to lace the edge of a knife sheath or holster and cover the edge. The Tandy Double Loop- I don't like that stitch because tere is a single long section to the hole and all the lace material is bunched together outside of the edge- if that makes sense. Is there some type of a stitch with lace that stays closer to the edge and covers it up better? Thanks.

THANKS. I had thought about a slit in the end but I would have had it between the stitches- never thought of the slit between the holes in the two sides, makes a very neat job. Snowshoes use rawhide lace and the slit on the tag end is common but it sort of takes up space- no problem on a snowshoe but a problem if between two pieces of leather.

Hope this is the right place to post a question. Most tutorials on how to buck stitch are so a continuous border back to the start, such as a wallet or a belt- all around the perimeter. On knife sheaths and holsters this doesn't happen- you have a straight edge with a top and bottom. How do you handle the tag ends? In a wrap stitch you simply place the tag along the edge and cover with wraps. On the buck stitch you can't really do such. All help appreciated. Thanks.

This is just an observation as I continue to learn. I make old west style holsters and knife sheaths. I had no knowledge about skiving and some edges on a few projects were way too wide. This was especially true of knife sheaths with a welt. If you haven't tried skiving the edge- do so, skive the inside so it is not seen. Makes a big difference.

Thanks- I'll try that.

Thanks Dwight. I recently made two pouches for 45ACP clips/magazines and I couldn't get the leather right so I used side panels and had the front go around the bottom, up the back, and then become the flap. Came out okay but I really wanted the type you made. Couple of suggestions. 1. If you leave the knife in the sheath the brass bolsters turn green. If you glue on a cloth liner- solves the problem. 2. Finish. I have had trouble with a brown dye bleeding when wet and staining my clothes. I have therefore gone with a unique answer. Brew several tea bags into a very dark tea. Soak the leather and then sun tan. Then a dab of Neats foot oil, then repeat the whole thing 3 times. You will get as dark a brown as you have in the photo and so far- a fast color, doesn't bleed when wet.

How did you form the leather?

Thanks, I will. Since I started carving I see things in the work of others I didn't see before. AND WHILE I'm at it, as a new carver. I have found that scroll type carving can be very difficult. The swivel knife may waver, the stamping can be off, and the result is not a proper curve- doesn't look good. On the other hand a flower, if a pedal is a little off, who knows the difference? Easier to do. At first I thought the Sheridan style might be easier because a lot of flowers have equal pedals, etc. but then I realized you must get every one of them the same. Now in my planning I have changed things a little, such as a leaf rather than a scroll. I'll work up to a scroll but I also want a finished piece that looks as good as possible. I really love the carving- I've made leather goods for years but stayed away from carving- it has opened up a whole new world.

Thanks

Thanks- I never thought about looking on ebay.

I am beginning to realize I need quite a few of these, Inside curves, tight areas, etc. I have smooth surface stamps but some are checkered. I assume the checked might create a darker effect but-never assume anything. Are there certain situations when you want smooth and others where you want checkered? Why use the different styles? Thanks. And- I'm a beginner- I am using small scraps of leather just large enough for a flower or leaf- for practice. I always saved the scraps and now I'm glad I did. Do any of you do the same thing?

Buying the correct stamps is on my bucket list. I am used to the $7.99 Tandy specials. paying $50 is a new thing to me. If I get to liking the effect I'll go ahead and get a couple.

I don't know how to post phots, in any event I tried the acid tube depression and then "eyeballed" the width of the seed stamp and used a pear shade stamp in an arch and then the seed stamp- looks better. I wanted a more burnished look but will keep working on it.

Tandy has the instructions of using a swivel knife to cut either a circle, or half circle- depending on the flower design. I have recently tried using an acid brush tube to make the circle and then putting a single line of seeds around the outer perimeter.- this looks somewhat similar to Sheridan type carving. In any event I need a dark shading between the seeds and the base of the pedals and I am not sure how to do it. I could make the impression with the acid brush tube and then use a shader and then stamp the seeds, or stamp the seeds and then shade or bevel. I've tried a few ways and I'm not happy with any of them. In any event- how do the rest of you complete the seed pod area? All help appreciated.

Spur straps (spur leathers) are a subject of interest to me- if you gentlemen don't mind- I'd like to talk about some aspects of it. I've only made one pair to date, they're okay but I want to make another pair. Spur straps are a project that doesn't take up much leather, has a practical application, and a chance to "go fancy" on all the work. The straps I made are just like those posted in the photo by Bland. I made some trials with fake leather and the two slots for the tongue seem to align the two sides and hold everything correctly. 1. One concern is the spurs themselves, some have the stud for the straps on a hinged part. The originals worn by the old cowboys didn't have this hinged part- I'm not quite sure why they started making them that way. 2. Folks used to put chains on spurs, that went underfoot. I like chains- I think they prevent the spur from riding up on the boot however there is a pivot type issue- even with chains the spurs can still ride up on the boot. 3. Conchos look good, I want one on the next straps I make. On the internet there is a tutorial using a ladder back type concho and then a leather tab is fitted into the ladder and this tab has a hole for the spur button. SEEMS overly complicated. My thought is to use a regular concho with a center post. I researched this and folks sew a liner to the inside of the straps with a slotted hole for the button but once again- seems overly complicated. Why not just remove the botton or stud from the spur and use that holer and then have a bolt go through the spur into the center post of the concho? Is there some reason that can't be done that I am not seeing? 4. Those who ride "English style" have thin straps for their spurs. Is there a reason the western straps are shaped the way they are? Extra protection for the foot if you rub up against a fence post, etc. ? 5. What I'm thinking is a border around the leather, a basket weave stamp with a mule shoe border around the edge. 6. ONE other issue. Some times I see straps with the buckle as in the above photo but the buckle strap seems folded back on itself or maybe it is going through the leather. What is needed are photos of the back side of the spur straps.

Just a guess but maybe to run the tongue in and out of. In other words the buckle is on the same part as the holes and the tongue goes in the first hole, out the second, and then the buckle. On CONCHOS....what size is typical? I see ladder-back type Concho on tutorials but can't you just use a post type?

Thanks- I am going to try to do a belt and was looking for a pattern.

Floral and scroll type leaves or oak leaves and acorns? Which do you prefer?

I've done leatherwork for years but I'm just starting the carving. Love it. One caution, I have taken standard "parts" from patterns and redrew them a little to fit into my projects- mostly holsters. I tried changing the size and all of a sudden thee stamps were the wrong size. I have copied known patterns and cut them out, a flower here, a pedal there and then rearranged them. When I stamp the marks match the size- if that makes sense.

Anyone visit this museum and is it worthwhile to see?

I am making Western, double loop holsters. You can buy 1/8" lace and 1/4" lace but to me, the 3/16" looks best. I figure I could buy 1/4" and cut it to 3/16". There are several "gizmos" for cutting lace but rawhide is pretty tough. Any help appreciated. Need to cut 1/4" to 3/16".