Halitech
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Posts posted by Halitech
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I've worked with the double milled vegtan and it does not take the stitch grove very well but it is soft enough that you can almost pull the thread tight enough to get it below the surface. Only downside is you end up really curving the belt and not in the direction you want.
If it was reversed with the lining being 5/6 and the front being 3/4, you might be able to do it and get away but I don't think you or your friend with the weights you have right now
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Pretty sure I saw some in the templates section done by tboyne
they make a 2/3oz tooling leather so that would probably be my guess on the thinnest you are going to get unless you split your own
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Billy, that makes more sense. The way you worded it was your glue line was in 1/4" from the edge, not that you were gluing in from the edge to 1/4"
BeUnico, that looks good and I would really recommend getting the multi-tool slicker. It makes it much easier to various thicknesses of leather
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I agree, if we keep the info in private then eventually the info will be gone. It's not like providing info on what weight leather to use is a national secret.
For a cell phone case, depends on the style but for molded, I use 4-5 and the ones like tandy sells kits for, I use 3-4 and then line it, mainly to protect the phone from the snaps (seriously, would anyone really use self stick velcro to close a cell phone case?)
For bags, depends on the type. I did a travel/lunch bag out of 6-7 with the bag stiffner and then lined with pigskin. For the motorcycle tool bag I did, 4-5 lined with pigskin with bag stiffner in between.
Tandy actually has a nice chart on their leather buying guide that gives suggestions on what weight to use for different items
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that's why I glue right to the edge, burnish, sew, burnish again. And my stitch line is usually 1/8" from the edge and I don't get any separation
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What you'll want to do is glue the pieces together a short distance in from the edge (maybe 1/4"), trim the edges totally even. I usually stitch next, then burnish the edges using more or less Bob Park's method. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101
Bill
I have to ask, why stop in 1/4" from the edge? The edges should be close enough that you could almost "trim" using sand paper and unless you are using 2 pieces of 14oz, your stitch line is going to be 1/8" - 3/16" from the edge and from what I've seen, burnishing doesn't keep the edges completely together.
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the first I think you are talking about an electric edge creaser. It may look like a soldering iron but it's not
Haven't seen any for doing basket weave but you are referring to an embossing roll
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I use them because they are faster and I'm able to get a straighter line then using a stitch groover and over stitch wheel. There are different sizes and different number of prongs depending on what you want. I use the 3mm 2 and 4 prong the most often but you may find you want the smaller or larger depending on the look you are going for.The size is basically the distance between the prongs.
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For being new, you did a really good job on the freehand work. I'm going ot take a guess that you used a kit from Tandy to make both knife sheaths. I haven't looked close at the kits but do they include a welt so you don't end up cutting the thread when you are taking the knife out and putting it in?
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leather is measured by the weight of a 1" x 1" square so the more it weighs, the thicker it is. (when discussing oz)
http://www.tandyleather.ca/en/leather-buying-guide.html
There is a good chart at the bottom converting from oz to " to mm
Chrome tanned leather is tanned using chromium salts and is already dyed and finished so it can't be tooled. Veg tan is tanned using things like bark and take longer but, will absorb water and allow us to tool it and dye it the colors we want.
The holes that are punched in Tandy kits are close to 1/8" and in my opinion, are more suited for lacing then sewing. the holes should be just big enough for the needle to go through and "disappear" once you tap the thread down.
When you are lining, you would only groove the top side if that is the style of stitching you are going for. I usually mark my stitch line with a line divider then use diamond stitching chisels to punch my holes -
short of encasing the leather in some kind of plastic coating, you will never make leather truly waterproof due to it's nature of being a fibrous material. With the things I make that require making them as water resistant as possible, I do everything the same until the final step then I do both sides with sno-proof and the edges with beeswax. Once I apply the sno-proof, I heat it lightly with a hair dryer until it soaks in and the buff with a clean cloth.
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As Dwight said, they aren't tooled. In fact, they are nothing but raw leather cut out and punched with the sewing holes. Some kits are "better" then others but you'll have to decide what is better in your opinion of the styles.
Most of us use 3-4oz veg tanned for the outers if we are tooling, 1.5-2oz if you are using chrome tanned. Insides, no more then 2oz regardless of type.
Far as a lined belt, you can make a lined dog collar the same way but be prepared to do a lot of hand sewing unless you already invested in a sewing machine. You make your top layer, glue on the lining, sew them together.
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Chicago screws would be good but price just went up on materials compared to rivets
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Hate to say it but you might be looking at doing some by hand
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latigo is hot stuffed with oils so chances are a resist won't soak in the way it does on veg tanned. Probably would have gotten faster help by saying what you were trying to do instead of being vague about it
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nice design but if the leather doesnt take casing, it's probably not veg tanned leather and if that is the case, doesn't matter how long you soak it, it won't tool
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If you are nervous about using an awl by hand, get an awl blade, put it in your drill press but do not turn it on. Use a stitching wheel to mark your hole locations. Put a piece of cork board on the drill press bed, put your leather down, then use the drill to punch (not drill) your holes. Just make sure you put a slight angle to the holes to make them look right.
Also, make sure you use a good quality glue and let it dry first.
Is the above proper use? No but at least you end up with the right shape holes and they will go straight through
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I mixed up the 2 types, full grain is untouched, your basic veg tanned leather, top grain has been sanded and a top coat added. I meant full grain when speaking above., sorry for the confusion.
Yeah, top grain probably would look cheaper and wouldn't develop that natural aged patina like full grain would but full grain will develop a patina as well.
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welcome to the addiction lol
That punch shows what quality is all about and I bet if it could talk it would have some real stories to tell. Treasure it and I bet your grandfather is smiling down on you as you start your leather crafting journey
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I do all my belts from top grain veg tanned leather and no one has ever said they look cheap. Personally, I like the look and feel of a top grain belt as I know it's not going to break unlike the "top end" belts you buy at wally world. The only difference between regular veg tanned and English bridle (from what I understand) is that English bridle is dyed and finished after it's tanned but both are tanned in the same way.
It all depends on what you consider "classy" and what you consider cheap looking.
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I think I've got some of the same stuff and I agree, it's pretty stiff stuff. I made a wallet out a piece and even after 6-8 months in my back pocket, it's still pretty stiff. It has softened some but I think it's just the nature of the leather.
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I started out on an old kitchen table then moved to my old military desk when I moved house. I picked up a sheet of 2x4 3/4" mdf and started making tool racks. I keep scraps and dyes and stuff in totes under it.
I try and keep it clean but seems everything ends up getting tossed to the right hand side of the desk :/
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hard to say on the type of lace they used, probably roo but could also be kodiak.
Far as how it's done, looks like a basic whip stitch done from the middle to me on both sides
Tool/stamp A Watchband?
in How Do I Do That?
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From what I've seen, you will need the leather down to about 1.5oz in order to get between the watch face and the strap pin, at least with the ones I've done.