Halitech
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Posts posted by Halitech
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nice work
kiwi, try doing it on a full 48" belt
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great work and nice explanation on the family crest
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I've always used cool to lukewarm water when doing my wet molding. I know boiling hot was used in armour making but cool water seems to give me more time to get things stretched out and in proper position over hot.
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I really like the way you used the tools but I have to admit, and maybe it's just me, but I had to look a few different times before I actually saw the JD. Now that I do, cool work
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I did a belt a few months ago just to have on stock and finished both sides with snoproof. I also hit it with a hair dryer on low heat to help melt it in and it almost gave it an artificial patina, looks really good.
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I have some of the 5-6 water buffalo and I wouldn't want a bag made from it unless I was planning on using it as a weapon to knock people out. It is really really stiff.
3oz calf is going to be nice and soft so you may want to line it and put a stiffener in it as well.
If you are planning on doing any tooling, you want veg tanned regardless of the weight
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I really like this. Stitching looks really nice, edge looks great but my eye keeps getting drawn to the snap piece and it just looks odd to me where it is off centered by so much. I know it's done to match the cut out of the body but it just doesn't look right to me.
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I do if I'm doing a bigger project but for something like a watch strap, too much work to dig out the sprayer.
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are you using water based dyes or oil based or alcohol based? I use mainly water based and seldom have an issue. Maybe try spraying it on with an airbrush or a small preval sprayer
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only time I've had that problem with resolene, and for that matter super sheen or any other finish, was when the dye wasn't dry enough and buffed enough before applying.
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Ian Atkinson actually did a comparison of finishes including to how waterproof they are, smell during application and after drying, and what the finish looks like.
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looks good. I really like the color combination and with a little modification you could use it for a bible case or artists case.
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I'm basically the same except I dye my edges when dying the rest then wet with just water, burnish, beeswax, burnish. If it needs more wax I'll add as many coats as needed.
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I use to use straight beeswax, its very sticky. I dont know if it the right procedure but I used edge coat before putting the beeswax on, while spreading it on it would take the edge coat off with it. I went to Hobby lobby and bought beeswax and paraffin blocks to make my own 50/50 mix. It made a big difference . The mixture glides on without any damage to the edge coat.
what would be the point of putting on edge kote then covering it with beeswax? Far as I understand, edge kote was designed to replace having to burnish
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I would avoid gluing the middle section where it bends. When you made the inside section, it should have been about 1/2" shorter then the outer piece to allow it to bend closed, same principle as a wallet.
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I'm with Dwight, I cut them as long as I can then trim off what isn't needed and it usually leaves me with enough for a wrist band or something else I need shorter pieces for. If I need them thinner, I run them through the splitter.
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if it was a prefinished bag, it would have a sealer on it and chances are, it's not veg tanned leather. You would need to at least strip off all the sealer they put on it from the factory and even then, it probably won't take the new dye the way you expect it to
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I take a piece of 9oz leather and flip it flesh side up and lay that on my anvil
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BadDad, I would but it's a little cool on the Bay of Fundy right now lol
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I second Boriqua on Maine thread, I started buying from them and even though it costs me a lot more with shipping and exchange to Canadian from US, the quality of their thread in my mind, makes it all worth it. In fact I just ordered 3 rolls (2 black and 1 scarlet 0.030") 3 weeks ago and received them in 9 days
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thread is typically round so it's going to rotate somewhat when you are stitching, unlike lace which will lay flat. As long as you pull both sides with the same amount of tension, your threads should look the same and then when you tap them down, everything will level out.
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I normally make my pockets 4" with 1/2" between the 2 sides for a total of 8 1/2"x 3 1/2" and the outsides I make 9"x 3 3/4".
My outsides I usually use 4-5oz, the inner piece I usually split down to 3oz and my slots I split down to 2ish
This gives me a nice 6 slot wallet
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In most cases, you will be using a leather keeper so you can actually sew through the keeper. With the metal ones like you are using, makes it a little more challenging but you still want to avoid going across at 90degrees.
you don't need to groove the front and back, just do the front. Once you are done stitching, tap them down with your maul.
And honestly, you really want to dye before you stitch, especially if you end up using white thread or you are going for a contrasting color look.
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are you thinning the tan kote to 10:1 water:tan kote? regular tan kote is way too thick in my experience to act as a resist. You'd be better off using something like supersheen and letting it dry for 24 hours before applying the antique or top coat
about done with vinegaroon
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
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You don't need to soak it for a long time in the baking soda solution. If you dunk it for 5 minutes in the vinegaroon, then 5 minutes in the baking soda is all that's needed.