Troy Burch
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Posts posted by Troy Burch
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I have one inside presser foot for my Cowboy CB4500 that has the ridge on the bottom. It works great on straight stitch lines, but creates nasty impressions on certain turns. Sometimes the off-track impressions can be spooned out, other times, not so well.
I never thought about that. So going around a belt tip would be one of those certain turns? I guess I need an open toe type.
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Yes Sir, I've had it long enough that I'm starting to get comfortable with using it. I've been using a guide just not the fancy deluxe flip up kind I got from Uwe. Following a stitch groove is still a pain for me because of no speed reducer which is next on my wish list. The ridged foot sound like it would make that worry free and one less thing to fret about. My situation is a little unique as I can't use my feet so I'm basically using one hand for the controlls and the left hand to sew and I'm right handed. lol
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Thank you for going to that much trouble, I'm going to order one Monday. It'll be nice not to have to worry about trying to follow a stitch line. I've always used 277 thread but seriously considering going to 207, nearly all of my sewing is belts or scabborts.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I've gotten so used to the Boss being able to align every stitch that the adler seems like I'm sewing blind. I always use a stitch groove to inlay my stitches on things that will get a lot of wear. Uwe, does the ridged foot inlay the stitches well? if so you may have solved my problem. Thank you buy the way I installed the edge guide you sent and it's great.
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I'm fairly new at this sewing machine stuff so I need help to figure out what kind of feet or needle bar I need. I'm having a hard time seeing the stitch groove. Could someone point me in the right direction. What are the different needle bars and their uses. I just need to be able to see where the needle enters the leather. Thanks Troy terrible pic but I think you can see what I mean
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Thank you Sir.
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It sounds like the stitch lever is not holding when you set it. In the back of the machine is a nut with a set screw inside it. If I remember, it is below the lower shaft and on the left side of the machine . If you loosen the nut and go inside it, you will find a set screw. Slightly turn that clockwise. It locks the fork on the stitch length lever a little tighter so that the lever stays where you set it. Try that to start.
glenn
You say slightly turn the set screw. Is there a way to tell when you've gotten it right? My 205 only does this when I sew fast and not every time. Should the set screw be firm, or tight? Trying to trust this thing again. Thanks
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I like Native American stuff. Interesting, never thought of the braiding for hair and opal for eyes. Here's her boy friend. lol
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How oily is the skin?
If you get the contact cement on uniformly, it doesn't discolor the hide, but you have to be super careful because you can't rub off drips from snake skin like veg tan.
It's not very oily, just enough to cause it not to bond well.
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I've used Tandys contact cement on rattle snake skin several times and never had a problem. Mine were knife sheaths, use a damp rag of alcohal on the side your glueing to take off some of the oil thats on the skin.
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Sorry, I seen it for sale not long ago I just don't remember where. I do most of my shopping at Springfield, Weaver, and Sheridan leather sites I'm thinking it's probly at one of these. I bought mine at Hidecrafters store in Ft Worth about 8 years ago.
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Uwe, I messaged you
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Tandy sells that video, I think it's $19.95. At least they used to.
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I believe your setting them too tight. That flat spot is the post driven into the top of the cap. That will also slightly deform the snap making it a little out of round or at an angle and be hard to snap and unsnap. The snap doesn't need to be tight against the leather just snug. The female part should be able to turn some.
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A customer wants a basket weave belt with his initials on the tongue, I can't seem to come up with a design that transitions the initials into the weave that I like. I've done lots with foral but I seem to be brain dead on the basket weave. Anyone have a picture of something that you don't mind sharing? Thanks
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Al Stolman's making cases book shows step by step process with pictures for making all kinds of cases. Old style cases but the technique is solid and the design can be changed to be more modern. I think it will show you everything your needing to know. I have all three of the set of books and they are great info for about any kind of case you need.
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I'd like to see a video of that in action.
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I tried some BKF yesturday on some leather that had gotten so dirty I was going to buy some more instead of using it. I just wet the leather, sprinkled some BKF on a rag and wiped it in circles on the leather. I rinsed it immediatly after and after it dried it was prettier and cleaner than the new hides I get. Thanks for the tip.
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just go to the "follow this topic" at the top right and click unfollow.
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Thanks Avion , thats what I needed to know.
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Thanks King's X, I use a Barry King SK and blade. Has anyone used both brands and have an opinion?
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I skive the buckle end before I glue them together, it looks much more professional than an abrupt cut off and leaving the rough back showing. Two layers of 8 or 9oz leather should be plenty thick.
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You can probly take the finish off with some deglazer and redye it. I don't use a sponge to put on finish it's too abrasive, I use sheep wool and rub lightly. Are you letting the antique and dye dry 12 hours or overnight before the finish? If all else fails someone might like a solid black holster.
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Ray, they are key fob "badges". Search key fob badges on ebay and a bunch will come up. You can probably buy straight from the company of whatever kind your wanting.