Rayban

Twin...unlike yourself.....I'm not saying K-man is wrong, I'm just saying I disagree. Big difference. Rg

So in your case, (holster), no retention at all works good for you....good to know.

Hey K-man......so what if the gun comes out of the holster...it's still in your pocket.....a little funny there.....other than that, we'll just disagree on the detailed molding.... I guess too much molding isn't for me...there's only a couple spots on a semi-auto where there is retention, all the other lines and stuff serve no purpose cept make it look like molded plastic. Just MO.

See that little tab I stitched in at the top of the holster? If you push down on that with your thumb while you grip the gun, you disengage the gun from the retention in the holster. Then the hook feature finishes the job. After a little practice, it's a quick fluid motion. But I agree with you about deep forming, not a good idea, and not necessary.

I called in my order to the distributor (police outfitter) and they had it in in exactly one week.

I ordered this one from a Ring's distributor. I had my choice of blue or black....I thought it was kinda cool to have a black one.

I finish them same way I do a regular holster. I would rather they be stiff to start out and will break down somewhat as time and usage goes on.

Nice clean and sturdy work....question, the backdrop articles hint that this holster is for a LEO (?), if so, does this style always have such exposure to the trigger....and no retention feature? This style of holster just doesn't look safe to me, but I do not know what this style is meant to do or be, so please excuse my ignorance.

What Luke says....

Very nice work.....do you ever have a problem with the USMC black with Bag Coat rub off on clothing?

Big O....I've done the same process only with leather.....mold, then wet to lay flat.

I tried ordering online last night but wasn't working, I'll call them today....Thanks!!

Just need a couple little pieces, about 2" x 6". I'm experimenting on some strops, and I hear horse butte is the primo leather for it. I'll pay, of course. Thanks much,. Rg

Ya done good....at first glance I said to myself......self, this is for a fast-draw dude.....I was right! Good work!

Kat, I think Noah thinks I meant putting both needles in the hole at the same time.....which of course I didn't......front needle thru first, pull thread all the way thru, then the back needle.....

I believe my Bob Douglas awl is about as sharp as they come.....but going through 4-5 layers of 9oz. is a bit of a struggle for me. And because of that struggle, the back side didn't always look so pretty. I find that with using a 3/64" drill bit, the leather removed is a few particles of dust at best........and the hole isn't big enough for the second needle/thread to come back through! So that's why I call the 3/64 hole, my "pilot", I still use the awl to ream out the hole to a bigger size and for the diamond shape that I want. I've also done another experiment.......I've reamed out a line of holes with the awl, then left the work alone for the night. next day I found that the holes had closed up enough that the awl would not fit through....had to re-ream them. So the holes still close up around the stitching. In theory, you're right about drilling removing leather....but I say, "so what?"...it's insignificant.

Still avail......must sell!

I like them too...only POTENTIAL problem I can see in them is that if they break down over time and need to be replaced or repaired, it could be a problem. Other than that, they look good.

Anymore, if I have to go through three or more layers of leather, I take the work to the drill press for 3/64" holes. These act as a pilot hole for the awl (Bob Douglas "medium" size) , which actually reams out to a bigger stitch hole. That's my way, and I'm sticking to it....

Darn...I just bought a rawhide one on the Bay last night....if I don't like it I'll be back....thanks!!

Is this mallet still available?

I understand completely, it took me 10 years to wear out the inexpensive awl I used....then when I went to the same store to replace it, I found that they had actually downgraded in quality....that's when I made the decision to invest in a custom made one. But I agree with your rationale.

Don't be afraid to make the boo-boos....that's how you learn. The notching out of the welt is how I do them too.....works fine.

Another vote for the Bob Douglas.....at first I hesitated parting with the $$, but after enough frustration with the cheap stuff, I decided to get a Bob Douglas and I'm sure glad I did. Since the awl is my most used tool, I figured I should have the good stuff.

Looks good and solid...only thing I would comment on is that the additional stitching you did on the belt slot/reinforcement layer seems a bit much. While it may be stronger, I don't believe it's needed. If there's a Woodcraft store in your area, they sell small slabs of hardwood, Perfect for making your own edge slicker. I would recommend cocobolo.