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indypbear

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Posts posted by indypbear

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Timd,

    I've had some experience with 4H, Girl Scouts and Boy Scouts (mostly). I guess I would have to ask who is actually teaching the class? Is it you or the guy that has done it for years?

    If it is you:

    1) Pray a lot, then organize them into groups of 4 or 5 with an assistant for each group. You have better control with smaller #s.

    2) Inventory the tools you have to work with for each group.

    3) Prepare a lesson plan with enough time to case, stamp and put a simple finish on them. Saddle oil would be quick & simple or a spray lacquer!

    4) Quickly tell them what you are going to teach, teach it, set them to work, praise their creativity. Oh, let them know up front the time they have from start to finish (ONLY 1 Hour).

    5) Watch the group. The some of the older Scouts may be more mature and some may have some leather experience. Use them as peer control and some additional assistance for their group. They need to exercise their Leadership Skills.

    6) Keep it simple, Make it fun! (KISMIF)

    7) Straighten up and repeat with group two. Some of the older Scouts may want to stay and help if they have time on their schedule (Force Multiplier). Pick and choose. You may have some talented candidates for a more advanced class in the future.

    It will be chaiotic. Don't let it get to you! Set to rules of conduct and courtesy you expect then delegate, delegate, delegate. Just remember that PPPPP (Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance) so get prepared.

    Good Luck and you have fun with it!

    John aka Indy

  2. Posted · Edited by indypbear · Report reply

    David,

    Check in the current TLF catalog on page 39. There is a small bear paw stamp in the Native American Symbol Stamp set. The whole set is only $21.00 if you are on business pricing with them. The other resource is Silver Creek Leather Co. in New Albany, IN. Hope this helps!

    John aka Indy

  3. Posted · Report reply

    David, Those look great-as usual. As far as Bear paws comment by Moon, well I borrowed a fetish bear for my logo. The Commanches named me TaSa Wasupi, Lakota-Wapsu Mashke, Navajo-Schesh Leguy (White Bear). That's more than you wanted to know but I like bears also and especially love to see you bike seats. Keep putting out that geat stuff-Buckeye.

    Best regards,

    Indy

  4. Posted · Report reply

    This is cool. Where did you get your stamp made? How much did you pay...if i may ask...

    Spider,

    Let me know if you are interested in a Maker's Stamp. We made the one for TomSwede. Check out his Coffin notebook with the triangle and mariner's star. He wanted it for his rod acases and larger project but couldn't wait to use it so.........

    Indy

    :cheers:

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks to all for the leads! It's for a customer that used to buy it from Tandy but they quit stocking it. I checked with Jim Rastetter at Corp HQ. He is trying but has been unable to come up with a resource todate.

    Kevin-they are looking for white nylon 346 unbonded.

    Kat-the lady from Texas Thread told me she would send a sample the next day a week ago. They are in my backyard...Arlington, TX

    Duke-thanks also....I'll try Hoch & Selby also. Maybe we can help them. My motto is "if you don't see it, ask anyway....we'll help you find the answer".

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Tom,

    That looks good. You beat me to the punch on the coffin notebook. The stamp looks good also. you'll get the hang of aligning it with practice. I think Brother Freak is really observant. You are a southpaw (lefty). That was the first thing I noticed

    I've been working on the shop putting new lighting, doors, two windows. Maybe soon I'll settle down to working in it regularly. Gotta make that Toro 3000 pay for itself. Have a good trip to Scotland.

    John aka Indy :cheers:

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Craftsman,

    The answer is as stated to take the cap nut off of the handle end and drive the shaft toward the maul head. Be careful not to strip the threads. The leather may have swollen some in time but it should bread loose. The other end cap is a Stohlman brand concho cover for the pretty effect-not functional except to hold the head in place. Just replace the poly head with the rawhide and reverse the process tightening the cap nut. A little emery paperHope this helps.

    Corporate TLF wants to know who gave you the "I DON'T KNOW" answer. Policy now is toward good customer service and if they don't know the answer find it!

    Just stick with Front-Line Products (me) and we'll help you whenever and whereever we can.

    John aka Indy

    <front_line42@yahoo.com>

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Urb,

    Let me start out by saying those are really nice wrist bands. I like the artistic variety. I m going to make some wrist bands for a group locally that is a martial arts school. What is the most popular weight? Have you made a design that leaves the top section open for an impression 3/4 of the width with straps? Can you turn the one with straps over to see the fastening side (buckles)?

    Indy

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I just purchased an Al Stolhman brand maul.

    It comes with two heads.

    I want to change from the poly head to the rawhide head.

    It came with NO instructions. I emailed TANDY,they got back to me

    Said they DIDNOT know how to chacge the head,

    that I should just keep the poly head on, but I want to use the rawhide one!

    Does anyone know how to change the head?

    Craftsman,

    Hang tight and i'll get an answer for you tomorrow. It's not tough on a King maul, so the Stohlman should not be also. It's just a little flashier with that pretty end cap. I think Barry's is a Delrin™ head and I have two different weights and like them both. I also have a really large hefty rawhide for wacking my strap end cutters and rosette punches. Just a matter of preference and budget.

    Indy

  11. Posted · Report reply

    By now everyone has noticed that you don't cut a 1 1/2 inch strap for a 1 1/2 inch buckle. It won't fit. Straps have to be cut an RCH smaller than the buckle. If you have used a strap cutter before, you have also noticed that the measurements on the arm don't mean much compared to the actual size strap you are about to cut.

    Here's what to do: Get a few pieces of scrap and some buckles, and make a short strap to fit each size buckle. Write the magic number on the backs with a Sharpie, punch a hole through them and tie them together. The next time you need to cut a 1 1/4 inch strap for a belt, simply slide your 1 1/4 template scrap strap into the strap cutter, and tighten the screw. No guesswork or measuring involved, just cut your strap. If you make a lot of belts, the few minutes invested making this cheat pays off.

    Johanna

    Johanna,

    That's a great tip. Collect them and make a book like Tips & Hints by Joe McGuire. OK back to the RCH and BCH. What do the letters mean? I know when you give me the answer I'll slap my forehead. I'm already shrugging my shoulders. Tha'ts why us pollocks have slumped shoulders and flat foreheads-uck-uck-uck. Just go ahead and make my day-duh.

    John

    :cheers:

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks I have several sources for that I just thought for sure some one would have a bear paw pre made. Whats wrong with them, they don't have exactly what I want?

    David Genadek

    David,

    We'll make one for you in Delrin™ or Magnesium. Just send me the design and size of image. The Delrin™ will be a 5 1/2" shaft and the Mag. can have a center or hefty shaft or you can buy one from TLF. Let me know how we can help you with this.

    John aka Indy

  15. Posted · Report reply

    DJ,

    That's a nice looking belt for a first try. A good start is 3.5 times the material cost and hold to that until your skill and reputation for quality gets out with the customers. The you can ask and justly get more for good quality work with your maker's name on it. Tom's right about telling the early ones NOT to tell what you charged them but what it would have cost if full price. Keep up the good work.

    John aka Indy

    :cheers:

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Thought I would mention that my son Riley, 18 yrs old. Has a new articule in the Leathercrafters & Saddlerys Journal that just came out. He has a thing they call "Riley's Corner". His articule this time was on a roper style wallet. Some of you here know him from some of the shows we have attended. Be sure to look at his article.

    Randy

    Hey Deputy Dog,

    Good to see that there is literacy in your genes. We'll look for the article when my LCSJ comes. Are you going to Columbus in Sept.?

    Stay safe.

    Fraternally,

    John aka Indy :cheers:

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome to the forum. My association with England is from the Warwickshire/Rugby/Stratford area. If you are interested in an association with someone here in the States doing english saddles and repair, I have a customer in the St. Louis that would like to hook up with some one knowedgable to share in learning. He's not seekiing a partnership just networking. Good craftsmen (persons) are hard to find any more.

    Good luck with your business in Yankee country.

    Indy :cheers:

  19. Posted · Edited by indypbear · Report reply

    Yet another shameless plug. Here is the end result of the 'Black and Silver' commission. Description follows:

    We've got the breastplate with wet molded 'muscled' chest.

    Articulated cuirass.

    Lots of carving and embossing.

    Incredibly solid with a lot of overlapped plates and hardening.

    High Collar

    Cool new Pauldron design

    Greaves with high knee

    Unusual sabbaton design

    Scale 'Super Skirt' with hundreds of 'floating' scales where each of which are hand molded and, dyed, painted, studded, and assembled. Incredibly solid and a bit heavy but doesn't restrict movement at all.

    It's got full articulated arms with the elbow cop, vambrace, and rerebrace. Similar to metal plate designs.

    This is the first set of armor where I've tooled the Prince Armory logo into it. Shows up nicely in this pic.

    The mannequin doesn't wear the armor well at all. As usual. 90% of the armors I make are commissioned and are made to fit a certain person. A disproportioned 6' 4" mannequin doesn't really do the armors justice. I think there will be an immense difference when the intended wearer of this piece and hopefully they'll get some photos to me.

    All leather construction by the way held together with rivets, chicago screws, and floating retaining straps.

    Design and intricate work by me but a a lot of props go to my assistant and friend, Chris, on this one for a lot of the work on it.

    It doesn't have a name but if it had the right type of helmet I'd probably want to call it the "Leather Iron Man" armor haha

    Hope you all like it.

    Azmal,

    Nice work! The Prince Armory logo looks really REGAL. It appears that you have used the western floral carving. Did you intend to not have design symmetry on the breast plate and shoulder/arm plates & cuffs? I look for design symmetry and pattern flow. I guess that's the show Judge coming out in me-sorry. Please don't take it personally. Your design and construction is very good. What time period does this represent? I look forward to seeing more of your work.

    Indy :cheers:

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Finished this one today. It's a dayplanner for my daughter. She loves Alligators! So some embossed cowigator (albino) was located and this is what I came up with. Her name is Rebecca, so I personalized it a bit and added her nick on the spine.

    The stitching is by hand, and I THINK I am getting better! Thread is the new Tandy Orange Braided Nylon. The color is Eco-flo Range Tan as a base and Eco-Flo Antique Saddle Tan as a top coat. I finished it in good ol' neet lac, three hand rubbed coats.

    Lemme know what ya think!

    Ken,

    That looks really good Brother. :You_Rock_Emoticon: I like the finish. The design appears to be kind of a "celtic western floral" hybrid another famous Froghunter design. I'll bet my square that 'Becca really likes it. Your stitching looks so good that I have to look closely to tell if it's machine or hand stitched. How did you finish the edges-slick or just raw, can't see it?

    John aka Indy

    :cheers:

  21. Posted · Report reply

    OK, I give up. I'm not going to stay silent and in the background on this one. I've been frustrated with the problem also and listened to an OLD TIMER, for a change, a long time ago. These TIPS are for SCOUTER and all of you frustrated lacers.

    1) Better lace is always good but other is usable with treatment (see #3)

    2) Measure the distance around the area to be laced and figure 7-8.5 times the circumference if doing western double loop. Others will take more or less so learn to dry splice shorter lengths. I'll try to find my chart for sewing and lacing reference and post it. It was in an old issue of Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal. Measure the lace you get and be sure you have more than or at least enough before you start.

    3) Put a little Leather Balm with Atom Wax on a soft cloth and pull the lace through it a couple of times after you have it on a needle. It will soften it somewhat and keep from cracking as much. Your lace will pull through smoother and wear a lot less (your temper too!). When you're finished it buffs up nicely also.

    Ref Kits: All kits that are pre-punched are going to be a challenge due to stretching during tooling even if you tape the back or rubber cement it to a board. That's why "usins bin roun uh whal" don't use them 'cept in extreme cases mostly NOT though. It's not just Tandy Kits. Kits are punched to match and we tool them to screw that up. "When you become more experienced with leather carving you learn how hide your mistakes better".-Pete Gorrell

    I hope you like these hints and they help. Now I have to kill ya'll. Oh well-send me your addresses!

    Happy Lacin',

    Indy :cheers:

    Boy that died quick-it was a joke gang!!!!! Well all except for the tips! The lace with Leather Balm really works. Try it and let me know what you think of it. :feedback:

    JKK

  22. Posted · Edited by indypbear · Report reply

    OK, I give up. I'm not going to stay silent and in the background on this one. I've been frustrated with the problem also and listened to an OLD TIMER, for a change, a long time ago. These TIPS are for SCOUTER and all of you frustrated lacers.

    1) Better lace is always good but other is usable with treatment (see #3)

    2) Measure the distance around the area to be laced and figure 7-8.5 times the circumference if doing western double loop. Others will take more or less so learn to dry splice shorter lengths. I'll try to find my chart for sewing and lacing reference and post it. It was in an old issue of Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal. Measure the lace you get and be sure you have more than or at least enough before you start.

    3) Put a little Leather Balm with Atom Wax on a soft cloth and pull the lace through it a couple of times after you have it on a needle. It will soften it somewhat and keep from cracking as much. Your lace will pull through smoother and wear a lot less (your temper too!). When you're finished it buffs up nicely also.

    Ref Kits: All kits that are pre-punched are going to be a challenge due to stretching during tooling even if you tape the back or rubber cement it to a board. That's why "usins bin roun uh whal" don't use them 'cept in extreme cases mostly NOT though. It's not just Tandy Kits. Kits are punched to match and we tool them to screw that up. "When you become more experienced with leather carving you learn how hide your mistakes better".-Pete Gorrell

    I hope you like these hints and they help. Now I have to kill ya'll. Oh well-send me your addresses!

    Happy Lacin',

    Indy :cheers:

  23. Posted · Edited by indypbear · Report reply

    Check out a new product by Bee Natural Leathercare. www.beenaturalleathercare.com

    We just got the information in the mail today and we like their other products like RTC, PRO-CARV, Leather Finish and #1 Saddle Oil with Natural Fungicides. They're a little more expensive but "penny wise and pound foolish". I like to get the best available as it pays in the long haul.

    Indy

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome to the forum. We're glad to hve you here and help. Although Lignum Vitae is a very dense wood an equally good slicker that you can find more easily is made from cocobolo wood. The slicker/creaser from Hide Crafter Leather in Fort worth is the best I have worked with todate. I also have cylinder of cocobolo I use in a drill press and a finisher from Weaver Leather.

    Smudley is right on regarding the edge finishing. The work just doesn't look finished without a slicked or rolled edge. It just adds a bit of professionalism. :cheers:

    Indy

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