Jump to content

indypbear

Members
  • Content Count

    189
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by indypbear


  1. Freak, Well if Kevin, the wallet King, is speechless (for now) I'll jump in and tell you that it's "boootyfull". Gota question though regarding the pen/pencil loop! Why do you choose to place it on the outside edge rather than on the inside? I know you've got some logic to it!

    I really like the subtle use of the oak leaf l & r in the background. It adds a special touch that makes me feel like I've found an artist's secret message. You've put a lot of artistic thought into the design or it just pours out of you naturally. The borders. basket weaves and wood grain kick (that's a good thing). Where did you get those great initials? I know they can't be a 3D stamp.

    Best regards,

    Indy :cheers:

    Freak__s_notebook_inside1.pdf

    Freak__s_notebook_inside1.pdf


  2. Eagle.

    Call a local plastic company and they will cut you a piece of polycarbonate cutting material. It comes in several thicknesses- 1/2" is best. They may have a piece was left over from another cut. I bought an 4' x 8' sheet and had them cut it in half and we use it in two areas. They also cut us two 12" x 24" x 1/2" for $10.00 ea. It's the same material Hide Crafter sold in 12" x 15" x 1/2" for $17.95 ea (no handle or radius corners though). Be sure to get the textured material!

    Indy :cheers:


  3. Scouter,

    That is awesome :clapping: . You've got a good grasp of the feathers and other features. Try to get a hold of one of the Robb Barr Leather Art videos. He has made around 18 different VHS & DVDs that teach the carving, embossing and coloring. If Hide Crafter doesn't have them let me know and i'll hook you up with a resource.

    Keep on Toolin'

    Indy "an OLD Scouter"


  4. Hey Scouter,

    I agree with Clay and the others regarding colors. They can be intimidating when you have spent so much time on the carving and don't want to mess it up with color but you have to bite the bullet and go for what makes you feel good about your work. Play with it on some practice pieces. You could just develop your own style.

    Keep on Scoutin' & Toolin',

    Indy


  5. To ALL questioning Hidecrafter aka HideCo-

    1) The power shut down was a power company problem in transition to the new company. They will be back in the saddle soon so be patient with them. Leave Ron a message and the nature of the call (order, etc.) and he will call you back as soon as humanly possible. Just a little bump in the road!

    2) Ownership is SX Industries in MA, Silver Creek Leather Co. in IN and Teneria (Thorobred Leather) in KY. and are legally HideCo. dba Hidecrafter Leather Co. but will still go as Hidecrafter Leather Co. Wait until the new catalog comes out and see how it is titled.

    3) Tell Ron Stuhlman what you are interested in for supplies and suppliers. They did drop Gomph-Hackbarth tools (Ellis Barnes) but have Barry King and also a line of better less expensive tools (Craft & Co, Kyoshin elle) who are good Japanese manufacturers. :specool:

    Indy


  6. Indy Thanks for the tips, This piece of leather was only about 3 or 4 onces and a little thin to get too heavy with the undercut bevelers which I used first. I thought about going back and using them afterbeveling but on a scrap piece I was cutting through the leather. I agree that my finish cuts need improvement, and I am working on that. I will try for deeper thumbprints. Again thanks for the tips. Chuck

    Chuck, just strike it in and then tip it back to the heel and strike it again. See what that will do. In regards to the undercut bevelers 3-4 oz is the thinest that I would go using slick artboard or shelfpaper and lift gently when you undercut it. It lifts even that thin of piece. You'll surprise yourself with the results.

    Indy


  7. Chuck,

    :specool: Now that has been said my suggestion (if you wnat them) is take a leaf and flower design on scrap and work on the "thumb print" on the flower and leaf and undercut beveler in the loops of each to lift them more. The thumb print can be restruck once with the round heel only tipping it to deepen the impressions and they will jump off of the piece. The pattern flow is good as is the background. Keep the background depth as consistant as possible. Strop your swivel knife alot during the decorative cuts and they will be smoother in time.

    I hope that is constructive and not hurtful. You're are doing a great job. Keep up the work. You'll rival Chan Geer soon.

    Happy Toolin'. :cheers:

    Indy


  8. Vera,

    That vase looks good with the ribbon, plaque and buckle it earned in the IFoLG competition last October. I still think the folks in Israel don't understand the treasure they have in you and your skills-YET!!! Keep up the good work. They'll be sorry they didn't buy some now. Later you wil be able to get really great prices for them when you are famous. :cheers: Show us more-we like um. I want one. :specool:

    Best regards,

    Indy


  9. Eric,

    Welcome to the forum. Adding to the great advice from the "masters" here (not me) contact Ron Stuhlman at Hidecrafter regarding starter tools. He'll take good care of you! Tandy is good, too, for starters and they have four stores in FL. A good book that I wish I had when I started @ 15 is by Jim Simmons "The Book of Leather Work". Jim wasn't a gleam in his daddy's eye when I started but he caught up and wrote a great basic -advanced book. I may have an extra copy if you're interested.

    "Measure twice or three times and cut once then be patient and practice-ALOT!"

    Good toolin',

    Indy


  10. Pete-Tandy still has it or can get it for you. The item# is 3500-00/yard @ ret. $2.99.

    For the back of your project try shelf paper. It comes off easily for no lining projects or spoiled x-ray film (that they throw out) with rubber cement for lined projects. Hope that helps.

    Indy


  11. Thanks to ALL-Wolfie, Kani, Bronco & Hidemech. :cheers: I couldn't get a picture in my mind of a can/bottle holster but now I do. I agree with the pattern concept. I usually make my own patterns or modify a pattern when I have the idea in my mind.

    Bronco, if you have the dimensions or would share your pattern that would shorten my production time a lot. This is my e-mail address <front_line42@yahoo.com>.

    FYI-I usually try to find some flexible material like a 24 pak with the foil coating for my pattern material or go to the X-Ray Dept. of our local hospital for cardboard/plastic dividers from their film boxes. They discard it!! It's good stiffner for notebooks, etc. and the price is right-free.


  12. Nice job!!! If you need a good/reasonable maker's stamp let me know and I can get one for your in Delrin™ or Magnesium. I use both and like my simple Delrin™ better for the crispness of the design. I can also get good prices on Barry King tools. He makes some of the best along with Wayne Jueschke, Ellis Barnes (Hackbarth) pricey and Robert Beard. You can buy from Barry and Robert direct or HideCo formerly Hide Crafter is a dealer for King. Hope that helps!

    I like that strap pattern. Wher can I get a copy of it?

    Indy


  13. Good first effort. Try shelving paper on the back for the same reason as the blue painter's tape-not as sticky to remove. Or go to your local hospital and ask the Chief Tech. in X-Ray for some old film they re going to discard and rubber cement to that. None are bad ideas, just what works best for you. Keep on toolin' and it'll get better with each piece.

    Indy


  14. Robert's DVDs are always worth it. He is very exacting with his words, nothing like in person, but his scenery is really good basics to learn. He has one called "Carving the Rocky Mountain Elk" that is excellent for figure carving

    Check with the Tandy store that was referred earlier with the 800 number and see if Jim will be coming to their store soon. They might even create a class if there is enough interest. If not them call the store HQ in Ft. Worth on 820 and speak with him personally.

    Plan on checking out the IFoLG in Columbus, OH October of 2008 and see who is on the class agenda.

    Indy


  15. Patdf.

    That's better than my first pieces. It looks real good at this point just more practice and you'll develop your own style and do what your head tells you looks good. Catch some of Robert Beard's DVDs or classes. Jim Linnell does some really good figure carving also and does classes at Tandy sores from time to time.

    Happy toolin',

    Indy


  16. Steve,

    Welcome to the forum! :welcome: What's this "Goody Two-Shoes" thing? Most of us got started in Cub Scouts, Boy Scouts, Girl Scouts, Camp Fire, 4-H etc. Some are still paying back what we were given by teaching the next generations. That's not a shameful thing! Sorry I didn't mean to get on a soap box. :devil: Your picture is a pretty good practice piece. That's what scraps are for!

    Peter now lives in Houston when he is not traveling. He was in Ft. Worth last October for the IFoLG and might be in Columbus, OH next year at the IFoLG in October. Check with Allan Schiederer, Pres. of the Buckeye Leathercrafters of Central Ohio guild (937) 644-9434. They meet in Columbus on the 1st Sunday of each month. That should be some help close to you for now. There is a lot of experience in the guilds networking and event information. The Leathercrafters & Saddlers Journal is good also.

    Keep practicing and put that first one back to review after ten+ later. You'll be amazed at the results.

    happy toolin'!

    Indy


  17. Hilly,

    ALL are good answers to your questions. Re- stretch and rubber cement (RC), if you are going to line it any way use RC and find a hospital xray dept that throws the cardboard from the film out or the film itself (bad images for trash) and RC to that. Ask the Chief Tech. to save it for you. Try shelf paper for the project that you are not going to line. It will peel off after tooling and leaves no sticky residue.

    As for the stroping, follow the recs for the group above.

    "Happy Toolin'". :thumbsup:

    Indy

×
×
  • Create New...