Parott1

I'm using a size 26 needle

I've been using #138 thread on my Biothane Beta dog leashes, but recently tried going to 277 top & 207 bottom; per Biothane's recommendation. I can't for the life of me get the knot to pull to the center. It's at the halfway to 2/3's on the bottom piece. Anytime I back tack, the bottom looks like crap because the knots aren't pulling up and are all jumbled up on the bottom. The machine is threaded correctly and the thread is ran through a lube pot. I tightened the side and top tensioners exactly how Ryan Neal shows in his YouTube videos. I've also tried to tighten and loosen the bobbin tension to no avail. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I backed off both tensions and started from square one. I cleaned the hook and race then added a few drops of oil. The bottom tension was very loose, so I started there until I got the loop in the center. Switched over to the beta and just made adjustments to the top tension. The stitches are nice and tight and the backstitching is working flawlessly!

It was sewing beautifully, but the knot wasn't burried in the center. So I made a few more adjustments to the top and bobbin tension. After the adjustments it would sew 4-5 nice stitches then I would get 1-2 with loose loops on the bottom. The top tension is almost too tight in my opinion. Ill double check to make sure it's threaded correctly.

I bought the cb4500 mainly to sew biothane beta. I swapped out the stock feed dog with a slotted plate, but after some advice from forum members, I put the stock feed dog back in yesterday. After I installed the feed dog I was getting nice stitches, but the knot was in the bottom side of the beta. I tried loosening and tightening the bobbin tension, but as you can see in the pics below, I keep getting loops on the bottom. The thread did get stuck in the shuttle a few times. Every once in a while the top thread breaks by the needle. I'm running size 138 black bonded nylon thread with a #24 794s needle along with a lube pot. The primary thread tensioner (on the side) is as tight as it can get and the secondary (at the top) still has room for adjustment. The top thread tension is already very tight, so I didn't want to keep cramming down on the secondary tensioner. What adjustments would I be able to make on my own without voiding the warranty? . .

I posted a pic above and think I got the backstitch pretty close. I added a shim to the bottom of the stitch nacelle and it seems to have corrected the problem

The stitch is aprox 1/8" from the edge. That's a 5/8" piece in the picture. I didn't add washers to moving parts. I just loosened the plate to adjust the stitch length and slid a shim under to shorten up the forward stitch.

After playing around with washers and pieces of business cards, I think I got as close as I'm going to get without having Teflon coated plate.

The reason I bought the slotted plate was because the biothane didn't sew right with it. I'm sewing the leashes aprox 1/8" from the edge. Anytime I did this the biothane would pull down into the gap and the bottom stitch wasn't lined with the top stitch. Is there a way to use the feed dog with beta and still get within an 1/8" from the edge? Also this may be a dumb question, but is it possible to use the swing out edge guide simultaneously with the drop down guide? I tried to flip the work around, sew 3 stitches and do a 180 and go back around the piece, but I had a hard time getting the stitches to go exactly in the first 3 holes. When I say simultaneously, I mean set one guide to keep the stitching equal distance from the edge, then use the other guide once the work is flipped around.

I followed all the steps above with the exception of #4. I think the needles I have are triangle point. The washer seems to have shortened the back stitch. It looks half decent from the top, but the thread on the bottom side is slightly frayed. I just bout a pack of 1/4' washers from lowes. Here are a couple current pics. The first one is the top and the second is the bottom side

I didn't send a sample of the biothane to Bob before I purchased the machine. The feed dog that came with the machine wouldn't let me sew as close to the edge as I wanted, so I had to purchase the slotted plate, Wiz, when you say, you spin the work 360 degrees and stitch through a few stitches in the forward direction. Do you mean you spin the work around and sew 2-3 stitches forward and then spin it 180 degrees and sew in the direction you normally would?

Purchased a CB 4500 with a slotted plate to make biothane beta dog leashes. I'm using 138 bonded nylon thread with size 24 organ needles. I have no problem sewing with the machine IE going around corners etc, my only dilemma is back stitching. It seems almost next to impossible to get the needle to feed back in the same holes. I tried lifting the presser foot to align the needle, but then I get loose thread/loops on the bottom side. Sometimes they align, but most of the time they are just slightly off. Every now and then when back stitching, the thread on one or two stitches looks to be slightly frayed and I'm worried that this will weaken the product instead of adding strength. I included a few pics of the test pieces I made

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll be using the beta, not the regular biothane. Is it necessary to melt the ends of the thread once snipped?

I plan on making heavy duty dog leashes and harnesses out of biothane. I've read a few threads About it being a pain to work with... Does anyone have a recommendation on what size thread to use and what size needle to use? Thank you

Thanks Rebecca! I'll take a look at your products!

Does anyone know of a supplier for black tubular rivets? Preferably with no minimum order amount i.e. $200 minimum order. I will be using these to make pet products out of biothane and leather.

Thanks Art! I'm always bad with timing haha. I'll just wait until I hear back from him.

Is Toledo Industrial still in business? I called a few times last week, left a message and also sent them an e-mail, and have yet to hear back from them.

Ultimately, I would like to find small metal tags similar to these to rivet to my products. I've searches high and low and can't seem to find anything small enough. http://www.hundewelt-pfalz.de/product_info.php?info=p6833_hunter-fettleder-dressurhalsung-solid-education-55cm.html

I've been making dog leashes for a little over a year now and I would like to start making collars & harnesses It doesn't have to be anything fancy; just capable of sewing 12oz leather doubled and biothane? Ebay seems to have a lot of nice machines, but I would like some input on brands before I make the mistake of clicking the "buy it now" button Thank You

I was thinking about making leather labels and sending them out to be laser etched and then use a contact cement to attach it to the product. Not really sure how contact glue holds to chrome tanned leather though

I make dog leashes, collars & harnesses. Up until now, I never used a logo because it was just something I did on the side. Since my business has grown substantially I would like to add a logo to my products, that way people remember where they got the product from. I work with some veg tan, that's no problem. I also work with a lot of leather that has been chrome tanned and biothane. The chrome tanned leather is too soft to hold a stamp and I really don't want to brand it due to fumes given off. Is there any alternative? There is laser etching, but the machines are way too expensive and I don't have anyone locally that does it? Is there something I can use like an ink or anything else?

The leather is between 10-12 oz. Not sure if it will be going through all three layers.

I make leather dog leashes and one of my clients asked me to make a 3/8" leash with a thumb loop riveted about half way down from the handle. Should I even attempt this? I feel that the integrity of the leather might be compromised by doing so, but maybe I'm completely wrong. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Their stuff is made in china according to the website. I don't trust the quality of items made in china