Joy

Does anybody know where I can get headless screws? I've recently acqired some belt buckle sets and the tips are attached with them. They are soooooo tiny, and I can see myself losing them while I'm puttinng the belt together, so I'd like to get some before that happens. Thanks! Joy

I have allergies to metal, too. It's the nickel used in most metals that does it to me and includes being allergic to sterling silver. I can usually do 10K gold and more. Most hardware has nickel in it and all the silver coloured stuff has nickel coating, so it's bad for me. I've found that copper is OK for me, so your customer might try that, but when the clearcoat on most copper wears off, it'll make your skin green or black where it rubs. Clear nail polish works, too, but it wears off eventually and has to be reapplied. You can spray some items with a clear acrylic coating - try Krylon indoor/outdoor 'cause it comes in matte or gloss and is flexible - but it will work its way off, too. I would suggest that if you do this, you tell your customer and don't make any promises. One customer of mine told me she puts fabric bandages (not the pad) on the back of the rivets on her jeans pockets and metal buttons - it stays on in the wash.

Thanks, Chris.

I am going to have to get the blade for my Tandy Professional Leather Splitter professionally sharpened 'cause I've tried, failed and decided I can't do a decent job myself. Does anybody know the correct angle? Can you share any other info regarding sharpening this blade that may be helpful? Thank you! Joy

Go to the stationery store and buy some Carbon paper. I use it all the time.

It will probably cost between $2-300. I am using what Tandy calls "upholstery leather" which is thicker than garment leather (they say it's 4-5 oz). I cut 1.25" wide strips using my strap cutter. I only got it on Friday but have been using it over the weekend. I am very happy with it. I'm sure that Tom can make you one that uses thicker leather or wider strips if that's what you need. You have to figure out the exact angle you neeed before you actually sew anything "good" because if it isn't set up right, the stitches won't catch on the bottom. I found that in a couple of instances, the binding wouldn't feed freely through the attachment. After scratching my head for a while I concluded that the binding strip was a wee bit wider in some places than others, and that if I stretched it to thin it out a bit, then it worked just fine. Next time I cut a bunch of them I'll make them a tiny bit narrower. Considering the time it used to take me to bind these edges and the time I will be saving with this attachment, the investment is well worth the price I paid for it. This binding attachment will work on lots of things - maybe I'll start making hats. ;-) Joy

I got an attachment made for my Artisan 3000 made by the Tennessee Attachment Co to do bindings for the corsets I make. I though the price was reasonable, considering this was custom-made. They will need a sample of your material before proceeding. Give them a call. Joy Tommy Galya Tennessee Attachment Company 4603 Hwy. 70 E. White Bluff, TN 37187 (800) 251-5000 or (615) 797-3144 fax: (615) 797-4716 www.tennattachment.com

I just got one custom made for me to fit my Artisan 3000 machine to sew binding for the corsets I make. Tom at Tennessee Attachment Co. was very helpful and I thought the price was reasonable, considering it was a custom job. Give him a call - he will need a sample of your materials. Joy This is their details Tommy Galya Tennessee Attachment Company 4603 Hwy. 70 E. White Bluff, TN 37187 (800) 251-5000 or (615) 797-3144 fax: (615) 797-4716 www.tennattachment.com

I like it without any colour. Maybe just some antiquing. Great design.

There are lots of other forums people can discuss what they want. Keep this a leatherwork site - that's what it started out as, and I think that's where it should stay.

I have an Artisan 3000. I use it for sewing corsets and got it primarily so I could sew the trim. The reason I bought the 3000 was so I could sew heavy saddle bags if I wanted to. I also have the speed-reducing motor, but in hindsight should maybe not have bought it because I have a ton of machine sewing experience and I find it's too slow, even on the "fastest" speed. It has never skipped a stitch since I've had it. The shop sets it up to your specs so when you get it you can start sewing. I have adjusted everything on it since then ('cause I got them to set it up for sewing really thick leather), and it was easy to do. Joy

I got my first leather stuff at the Tandy store in Winterpeg about 100 years ago (naw, it was really only about 30 years ago), but like you, put it down for a long, long time. (Does this make me "stale" Canadian blood?) This is a great forum to learn practially anything to do with leather. From beginners to professionals, this site has it all, and you will learn lots. Welcome back to the world of leather! Joy

I put a sheepskin polishing thingie I bought at a hardware store on my drill. Works great! Joy

I use fabri-tack - available at fabric stores for about 10 (in Canada). Bonds fabrics, lace, leather, wood & trim. Dries clear. Acid-free & washable. Joy