Jump to content

zaynexpetty

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    143

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by zaynexpetty

  1. zaynexpetty
    Can someone explain to me how this is done? I was wanting to do card slots like this for a wallet that I am making, but couldn't figure out, so I went on etsy to see if it was even possible and found a good example, but still can't figure it out. How do the cards in the higher slots not fall to the bottom? I am confused.
  2. zaynexpetty
    That helps a lot, thanks for the advice! I contacted leathercrafttools.com and they responded saying that they can probably get them for me. Do you know how much they charged in your currency for the two different sizes?
  3. zaynexpetty
    Hello, I have a dilemma. I am looking for a good brown to dark brown dye. I used fiebings pro oil dyes in the past with good results, but I do not like how toxic they are, and won't be using them. I looked into Tandy's Eco-Flo dyes, and in doing research, I found a leatherworker.net thread with a bunch of people talking about how they had ruined projects by the dye turning a greenish color, and I don't want to chance that. I actually spent a lot of time and effort brewing a batch of black walnut dye a few weeks ago, and I am not at all happy with the results. It takes WAY too many applications to get to dark brown, and WAY too much time (oiling, then waiting for it to dry, applying the dye, and waiting for it to dry, repeat). I have tried multiple ways of dying the leather with the black walnut dye, only to get disappointing results. Long story short, I would like a brown/dark brown low VOC leather dye that is not fiebings pro oil dye, or tandy Eco-Flo. Any suggestions? Thanks! Zayne
  4. zaynexpetty
    Why is it that I can never get a more in-depth and thorough response than the ones you give?? Haha. I will have to give this a go. Thanks again!
  5. zaynexpetty
    Thank you for the quick response. My vinegaroon blackens the leather really quickly, and with just one coat (when brushed on). Would you recommend more than 3 TBS of baking soda to the same amount of water? I do understand that oils need to be set back into the leather after applying vinegaroon, but I was just curious if anyone can confirm that oiling the leather before it had completely dried after the neutralizing bath and rinse worked better/saved time? I'm pretty sure that one of the highly respected members of the cascity forum did that and had great results. Everything else I have read says to wait until the leather has completely dried before applying any oil.
  6. zaynexpetty
    Hey all, I have been searching for a tried and true method of neutralizing vinegaroon, and most methods I have found seem to be kind of vague, leaving me with a couple of questions: What is the ratio of baking soda to water? Does water temp matter at this stage? How long to dip/leave the leather in the baking soda/water mixture (all I have read is "not too long". I have no idea what that means)? I read that you need to oil the leather after you have bathed the vinegaroon dipped leather in the baking soda/water mixture, and then washed with warm, clean water in order to "bring life" back into the leather. I seem to have read (I think on cascity) that better results might have been had when applying oil before the leather had completely dried. Does anyone have any experience with this? Also, I have made a black walnut dye, and the leather still has a strange smell after dried, would neutralizing using the same method be beneficial? Thank you for any input! Zayne
  7. zaynexpetty
    I have not, I was going to try that after. I never thought about oiling them before hand, but that does make a lot of sense. I will give that a shot. Is there a type of oil you recommend (I may have asked you before, but this feed is ridiculously long, haha)? I have some montana pitch blend, but I was planning on using that for my last step after dying (also heard, or read, or maybe you told me, that this oil is good for helping to mask the vinegar smell from vinegaroon) . Im assuming some Extra Virgin Olive Oil would do the job? I am ridiculously impressed with the vinegaroon. It is incredible to me how it changes the color to black pretty much instantly, and how you can get an almost grey color from just doing a quick brush. I know i've thanked you before, but seriously; I am so grateful that you have bestowed your knowledge on to me (even if you say that you found your information through this same medium) and It isn't easy to sift through the volumes of information just on this website alone, even that can be a daunting task within itself. I haven't found anyone else that has been this helpful, and I can whole-heartedly say that I would not have a gallon of Black Walnut dye, and a gallon of Vinegaroon if it wasn't for your help and in-depth descriptions, and timely responses to the ridiculous amount of questions that I have. So, THANK YOU, again.
  8. zaynexpetty
    So, I finished the dye, and it is pretty weak (or so it seems). I was hoping for darker brown, but what I got is more of a tan color. I boiled the walnuts for about 4 hours, thinking it was done, I let it cool, tested it on some scrap leather, and it was pretty light (except on one piece), almost what you'd get from coffee staining. So, the next day, I boiled again for 2 hours, then strained and decanted. It is still pretty light. After looking at the scraps I tested after the final boil, one method of applying the dye did result in a darker brown, but it was splotchy. I'll attach a picture of the three test pieces. From top to bottom: -Dip dyed (only let soak for about 10-15 seconds). You can see the undyed natural leather on the left of this piece for reference. -Brush dyed with a wool dauber, after wetting the surface of the leather first w/ sponge (learned this when dying with fiebings oil dyes in the past, creates a more even dye). -Brush dyed without wetting the leather first (good color, but not even). Maybe if I applied another coat it would look more even? I don't know.
  9. zaynexpetty
    I didn't see this post until just now, for some reason. I will definitely have to experiment with some maple leaves, sweet find.
  10. zaynexpetty
    Sweet! Thank you! -Zayne
  11. zaynexpetty
    Hello! I would love to use Lepages green contact cement, but I think it is only found in Canada, as I can find it nowhere online, only Canadian hardware stores, and the product can only be ordered for pick up. Would you or anyone else happen to know if the Weldwood non-flammable contact cement (green label) is similar?
  12. zaynexpetty
    Exactly what I thought. Thank you for the assurance!
  13. zaynexpetty
    That's what I thought! I was beginning to think I was an idiot.
  14. zaynexpetty
    Although I have not tried it yet. I talked to an optician and he said that microfiber is what he would use (the kind used for cleansing lenses, NOT the terry cloth style). The problem is, I CAN NOT find any of that kind of microfiber wholesale or by the yard, I have been searching the internet for a couple of hours, and I can only find it sold in up to 14 x 14 cm squares, with not a lot of color options at the larger size. The optician also said that the material usually found in glasses cases is similar to velvet (he gave me the name, I can't remember what it was). So, when I build my case tomorrow, I will be using some black velvet that I purchased from the fabric store. Ill let you know how it goes! P.S - I have done some searching, and it looks like a lot of glasses cases are lined with velvet, so it should be good enough.
  15. zaynexpetty
    This might be a stupid question, but, does anyone know if Hermann Oak's Grade A tooling leather is full grain or top grain? I am assuming it is full grain, considering that "A" is their highest grade, I'm just not 100% sure. Thanks Zayne
  16. zaynexpetty
    Yeah, thats kinda what I was trying to get at in my last reply, definitely over-thinking it, haha (something I am notoriously guilty of). I think I will do the same, and line half of the inside of the case with suede. Shouldn't be too difficult! P.S - I purchased that Ev-R-Round circle cutter yesterday, Ill let you know how I like it!
  17. zaynexpetty
    Are you saying that these are all seperately different types of traditional leather glues? Not multiple ingredients for one type of glue? Thanks Hmm, interesting! So the tape just remains in the leather after it is stitched? Does it make any sounds when the leather is bent, like cracking? Also, how wide is the tape, and is it really sticky, as in, will it hold a folded piece of 4/5 oz. leather securely in place, so that I can hammer my stitching chisel through the two layers? I have used the scotch double-sided tape to hold two layers of leather in place to sand off and match up rounded corners, and that worked pretty well. Haven't thought of using it for stitching, because it would probably be a hassle/impossible to try and remove the tape after stitching. Thanks
  18. zaynexpetty
    Just wanted to let you all know that I purchased the Ev-R-Round circle cutter by Lion. It seemed like the easiest, cheapest route. If anyone is curious how well these cut circles, (up to 1/4" thick, without a center hole, I might add) I will post an update as soon as I get it, which should be next Friday. Heres the link to the website I bought it from: http://www.misterart.com/tools/paper-trimmers/lion-ev-r-round-circle-cutter.html I got the circle cutter and a pack of 40 refill blades for $40. I have been told by another helpful user (LNLeather) that it works well for cutting circles in leather. If it turns out that the Ev-R-Round doesn't fit my needs, I will definitely give Texas Custom Dies a shot, thanks! Zayne
  19. zaynexpetty
    Gah! I am racking my brain trying to think of ways to attach the microfiber cloth so that it isn't permanent. I want to have it attached so it isn't just lazily floating in the case. I was thinking velcro, but that is kind of tacky. A couple of snap buttons might work, but they'd be bulky. Im thinking now, that I may just line the one side with some suede, that way, no one will be rubbing any dirty microfiber which might scratch the lenses. The suede will at least protect the lenses when they are in the case, which is the purpose of the case, and I don't expect that the glasses will be moving around a ton inside of the case to cause the suede to scratch the lenses. Thank you for finding that thread by the way, I didn't even think about needing to clean the cloth.
  20. zaynexpetty
    I like that idea with the conduit. That just might work, I actually know someone that might be able to get some for me. Thanks!
  21. zaynexpetty
    Ohhh, okay. I think I will try that out. On that website, they offer an "extender arm" or something for that circle cutter. Would I need that for cutting a 4 1/2 inch diameter circle? Thanks!
  22. zaynexpetty
    Does this cutter cut a circle without making a center hole?
  23. zaynexpetty
    I really like the idea of lining it with something, but I am trying to make the case look minimalistic, so I want to avoid having a lot of stitching. Is there a way this can be done without stitching/extra rivets? Thanks I kind of like that Idea, I do want to avoid having to line the whole case with stitches, but if I just had to do one line of stitches to hold the microfiber in place, that might work. Thanks!
  24. zaynexpetty
    Does anyone know where I can get a custom circle punch made? I would like one for cutting out circles in 8/9 oz leather for some coasters I'm making. I need a pretty specific size (4 1/8"), which is why I would probably need one custom made. I tried cutting one out by tracing a circle with a stencil I made, then cutting and sanding, but it took way too long to just do one coaster, let alone a whole set of coasters. I also don't want to spend a lot of money, so I am not opposed to tackling making one myself, I just wouldn't know where to start. I could use some kind of pipe, but I doubt Id be able to find something with that exact diameter. Thanks, Zayne
  25. zaynexpetty
    I am about to design a leather sunglasses/glasses case. I am concerned that the flesh side of the leather, which would be on the inside of the case, will scratch/mark/scuff the glasses. I am using full grain hermann oak, and the flesh side is very tight, not hairy at all. Is this something I should worry about? I really do not want to have to line the inside with suede or another material. Would it be reasonable to lightly sand the flesh side to make it softer? I had thought about that but I don't want any flesh particles to be left on the glasses (I don't even know if that would happen, just hypothesizing). Maybe theres a conditioner or something that can be used? Thanks! Zayne
×
×
  • Create New...