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Found 10 results
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Ok so Im working on a suit of leather armor and I have an old hide that is thin enough to use for a certain part of it. Only problem is this hide is old has a bit of mold and is a little stiff (it doesnt roll up really it sorta folds) but its not rock hard and still has give and pliability to it. What (if any) steps should i take to clean up the hide, get rid of the mold and get it a bit more flexible again? Thank you all for the info in advance!
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Okay so I'm completely new to any sort of leatherwork, but I've been thinking of doing a project that involves it in honor of my all time favorite movie and need professional advice on the names of hardware that I need as well as how to treat, cut, paint, and sew the leather to fit onto the rods that connect to a metal base that individually pivot so the tail piece can be opened and folded. I attached the screenshot from the movie that I want to replicate as well as a couple of blueprints for how I think I should go about the project. Like I said, I'm an amateur so any professional advice would be appreciated. This is a project I hope to do soon once I have more free time and money on my hands, but also want to stay on a budget while still getting the highest quality stuff possible. I hope to have a life size genuine replica of the tail (4.5 feet) long and opens at about the same length at the longest point of the tail for display at my home to hang on hooks or nails. Also if I somehow pull this off, I want to know how to keep the display looking its best so it lasts a lifetime. Right now, in terms of hardware, I need to know the names of the objects I'm hoping to build the metal framework out of. I want to find a metal flate piece that has holes where I want to attach to the metal hollow rods using some sort of pivot hinge so it moves on horizontal plan to open and close the tail to make it realistic to the one from the movie. Also in terms of the leather, I want to know the best type of leather to get. Looking for the type that isn't too rough while still being flexible and thin so its easy to work with so I can sew the two pieces together once they are cut so that there are slits between the two pieces that will be placed over each of the rods. I need to find the best way to go about painting the leather so that the paint looks roughened while still looking vibrant and want the paint to last as long as possible. I hope my blueprints help explain this a little better and maybe someone with the expertise can guide me in the best way to go about this project. -
Does anyone know where I can get a custom circle punch made? I would like one for cutting out circles in 8/9 oz leather for some coasters I'm making. I need a pretty specific size (4 1/8"), which is why I would probably need one custom made. I tried cutting one out by tracing a circle with a stencil I made, then cutting and sanding, but it took way too long to just do one coaster, let alone a whole set of coasters. I also don't want to spend a lot of money, so I am not opposed to tackling making one myself, I just wouldn't know where to start. I could use some kind of pipe, but I doubt Id be able to find something with that exact diameter. Thanks, Zayne
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I am going to purchase a large (10 x 10 cm) brass stamp to emboss some veg tan. The stamp will fit into my adjustable heated embossing tool and would work well for its intended purpose, but I prefer the look of the stamp when simply hammered or pressed into the leather, rather than burned. I was going to buy a 1/2 ton arbor press from harbor freight to see if that does the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html The problem with that press is that it only has a 1 inch square ram, and I am afraid that the pressure won't be spread out evenly across the stamp, resulting in an uneven emboss. I was thinking about getting a couple of square pieces of thick metal to place between the ram and the stamp, and then on the opposite side, under the leather, to see if that would help, but I am unsure. Do you guys have any better ideas? The most economical approach is the one I would prefer. Thanks! Zayne
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I have purchased some Hermann Oak tooling leather recently from Springfield Leather Company, and I was very satisfied with it. Although, I found out that Hermann Oak (or at least the stuff that springfield supplies) is "grade c" quality. I was surprised, because the leather seemed to be higher quality (I am in no way knocking Hermann Oak or Springfield, both are great companies that I will probably continue to do business with). I have noticed that it is no easy task to find a leather supplier that supplies "grade A" leather in small quantities. I want the top grade stuff. Mainly for advertising purposes (that may sound stupid, but I have done research, and it does wonders for marketing). Does anyone know where I can purchase some Natural Grade A tooling sides/shoulders/etc.?? Thank you for your input Zayne
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I have bought a couple of brass belt buckles from tandy, but 5 dollars a piece seems a little pricey. Also, I am curious about what type(s) of metal is best for use with leather? I dont want anything that will leave any residue or anything on the leather, or anything that will bend/break. Is there a good website that gives measurements and is of reasonable price? Thanks! Zayne -
I just recently purchased an 8-9oz Hermann Oak double bend, for belts/straps, and it is very stiff, and will only get more stiff with the application of dyes. I know that the leather being as thick as that, it will only get to a certain amount of flexibility, but I would still like to make it more supple, if possible. Any suggestions? Thanks Zayne
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I always hear that you should buff leather after you dye it. However, I don't know exactly what that means. I use feibings pro oil dye. I am making belts currently but will be making other items in the future. I dye the inside of the belt, even when using black (yes, I know), because I don't like how it looks undyed. How does one "buff"? What stage do I buff? After the final resolene finish or right after I dye before I do anything else? And what is the best way to avoid sealing the leather on the flesh side to avoild bleeding? I have heard that using 50/50 resolene on top of gum trag is the way to go. Is that recommended? Thanks! Zayne
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I am new to leatherworking. I bought a 6 oz side of discount Veg Tan from Tandy and a 4 oz Veg Tan shoulder. I have been working with them both, and while the shoulder quality doesnt seem too bad. The side could be better. The flesh side seems really uneven and full of long fibers. I don't know if thats a normal thing or not. I hear tandys leather isnt that great overall. I hear amazing things about horweens chromexcel, among others, but I'm assuming it is really expensive. I also have heard that springfeild has some decent leather. All in all, I want to buy some good quality leather without spending a ton of money for making belts, collars, wallets, key fobs, etc... What are some good suggestions? Thanks Zayne
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I will be building New yankee workshop's cigar chair. How can I order a whole hide of upholstery leather brown and know that I'm getting a quality product? This will be my first leather project ever.
