zaynexpetty
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Everything posted by zaynexpetty
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I will try this, thanks guys.
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I tried it in the past as well and this was my experience. Maybe if I fold in the edges before I glue... I dont know. I didnt like getting whipped.
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I planned on using it with a dremel, so it would need to be secure without me having to hold it.
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Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!
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I emailed them yesterday but havent received a response yet. I guess I'll wait a couple days and see what they say, thanks!
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Just curious, is it still holding up? Zayne
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Hello all, its been a while. Anyway, I am in the market for a new edge beveler, and I have been told that Barry King Tools makes some good edgers for the money. I was looking to either purchase their grooved edger or their common edger. They told me that the common edger gives more of a rounded edge than the grooved edger, but that the grooved edger lasts longer. I havent really had great luck with precision and consistency with the style of edger that the common edger is. The grooved edger seems more like Tandy's pro edger, which is what i'm used to. The problem is, the smallest size pro edger tandy sells is a #2, which isnt small enough, and their new fine edger is too small. I'm working a lot with 4/5 and 5/6 oz leather, and the #2 tandy sells takes too much off and does not always cut a perfectly straight bevel. I guess my question is, does anyone have any experience with the sizing of barry kings edgers and possibly how the sizing compares to tandy's? What oz of leather is recommended to use with each size beveler? Do you think the grooved edger or the common edger would be more ideal? Thank you for the input! Zayne
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I will have to try english walnuts next. I still have my batch from about a year ago that I made with black walnuts, and it gives an interesting color (see attached picture). Since, I have added some 91% alcohol to my batch to help stave off mold, which has diluted it quite a bit. It takes twice the amount of coats now and doesn't have quite the same brushed effect. -
Hello, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as far as dyeing leather with indigo goes. I love the color it produces, and I am not a huge fan of using oil based dyes. I'd like to dye leather with actual indigo. Has anyone had any experience with this?
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I am also interested in this.
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A side question: I have not been able to efficiently heat up my 10 x 10 cm (approx. 4 x 4 inches) brass stamp with a "500 degree celsius" adjustable branding iron (approx 932 fahrenheit). The irons plastic handle melts before the time it heats up to the advertised temperature. I bought a blow torch from walmart, and I'm going to attempt to heat up the brand that way (I will be using it to brand both leather and wood). It was also suggested to me to attempt to heat up the brand in the oven. My question is: which would be more efficient? I will be attempting to brand multiple wood pieces/leather pieces at once. Also, If I did it in the oven, what temperature should I bring the oven up to, and for how long? Same with the blow torch, what temperature should I bring it up to? I have an infrared thermometer to check the temperature. Thanks!
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Well, I definitely don't want to put anyone on blast, the company was great to deal with, especially when I tried to heat the large stamp up the first time and the embosser melted, they sent me a new one free of charge. Even though that didn't solve my problem, it was good customer service to do so. The embosser works extremely well with the smaller stamps (I would say anything 5x5cm and under), just not with the 10 x 10 cm size which, in fact, was advertised to work with the specific adjustable embosser I purchased (which was more than another embosser they sell, and is the whole reason I purchased that specific one) which is my only gripe. They suggested hooking up both of the embossers to the stamp to heat it up, but I am in america, and the tool was made for 220v, so I had to buy a $60 step down transformer to operate the 1 embosser, however I would need to buy another transformer to operate both of the embossers at the same time, and that is kind of ridiculous. The company also did an extremely good job making my brass stamps, Ive had about 7 made so far by them. The company is lwleathers on etsy. I actually found the same exact embosser on another etsy shop, and they advertised that the maximum size of stamp that the embosser would be able to heat accurately is 5x5cm, NOT the 10x10cm that the company I purchased them through advertised. Good suggestion, what temperature would you recommend heating a 10x10cm up to? Thanks! Zayne
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Hello all, Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in, but it seemed the most logical. I have a large brass stamp, 10cm x 10cm. It came with an electric branding iron advertised to handle that size of brass stamp, but it does not get hot enough to properly brand the leather. It will smoke the leather, but it wont singe it like with the smaller brands. I am planning on using it on both wood and leather, but the heater I have simply wont work, by the time it gets to its maximum temperature, it starts to melt the black handle. So, either I need a cheap recommendation (under $200) for a better electric iron, or I need some advice on how to heat it up alternatively. I have heard that you can heat it up over an open flame, so I was planning on getting a butane torch from walmart and trying that out, but I am worried that I will get the brand too hot and it will burn the wood/leather too much as I have experienced in the past branding when an iron gets too hot. Is there a good method for doing this? How long to hold the flame over the brand? If the brand gets red hot, is that TOO hot? Thanks! Zayne
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I am very interested in trying out the Red Puccoon root dye. Only problem is; I don't think I'll be able to find any locally. Thank you for the suggestions!
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I think I am going to purchase a beveler from Weaver for now, as they are the lowest price, and seem like good quality. I think I will have to try Barry King if the Weaver edger doesn't work out. As far as the Weaver beveler goes, does it leave any tracks on the surface of the leather like the tandy one does? And are they easy to keep at a consistent angle? Thanks! Zayne
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I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
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I have been using a dish drying rack with a light fan in front of it to dry my leather as of late, It has been working really really well. Rather than taking 24 hours for my pieces to dry, it only takes about 7-8, sometimes less.
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Thank you all for your responses opinions!!! Bob, I think you have figured it out, and your testing method/formula seems promising. I think I may have to try the ribbon/glue technique out. Although I do like the idea of stitching reinforcing the ribbon/fabric pockets, I do think that it makes it look less appealing aesthetically. I like to make my items with as little stitching as possible, as I think that too much can easily complicate a sleek, minimal design. The only problem I can see myself having is that I use weld woods green contact cement, which might not hold up as well as the original weldwood, but I will test it out and let you know! Thanks! Zayne
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I received the Craftsha dye, and I love it. There are almost no fumes, and after a couple of layers of dye, and buffing with a clean white cloth, the dye transfer is VERY minimal, especially compared to Fiebings. I can not comment on the "long-lasting coverage" because I have only just received and tested the product, but I am sure that if my customers aren't happy, they will let me know. As well as with my own experience, as I use my own products for months to test them. I think this dye is exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
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Is there a quicker way to dry leather indoors than just letting it sit? Would putting it in front of a fan work? Or over a heater vent? I am trying to finish some projects that were dipped in vinegaroon and I would like to shave a little bit of time off the drying process. I have dipped the items in vinegaroon, then in a neutralizing solution, then rinsed in warm water. Also, if there are simple methods for wet leather faster, would the same methods work for drying oiled leather faster, so that I can apply multiple coats in shorter amounts of time? Thanks! Zayne
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I also plan on using 2/3 oz for the pockets if I do the stacked method. I have a whole side of it and haven't been able to think of anything to use it for besides interior pockets. Yes please! Let me know how it goes!
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I actually really like and prefer the minimalistic look of the type of pockets in question, but the stacked pocket method does seem to be a lot less complicated and more durable. I am thinking I will have to resort to the stacked method, because I don't like the idea of using wide ribbon or thin leather pockets, which would more time in constructing the wallet.
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I was looking into some Angelus dyes before, but I am trying to avoid the more toxic dyes, of which their dyes are. Probably not as bad as Fiebings, but I would like a more water-based dye. If this Japanese dye I ordered doesn't work, I may have to give that Angelus Coffee Dye a try. Thank you for the input! Have a great Christmas and New year as well!
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Hmm... Interesting. Maybe I will give them a call if I can't find a solution. Thanks! That was my first reaction. I was thinking that maybe there are pockets made out of some type of cloth or something to hold them in place, but that doesn't even really make sense either.
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Should be getting some of the Craftsha dye in soon! Thanks for the recommendation.