zaynexpetty
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Everything posted by zaynexpetty
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That makes sense. Thanks! Also, I just posted a new thread about natural alternatives to rubber cement, considering you know so much about natural dyes, I was wondering if you might know anything on the subject? You can check the topic from my page if you feel so inclined. I haven't received any responses yet. -
Hello, you leather geniuses, you. I am wondering if any of you have discovered any good natural leather adhesives with the same, or similar, holding strength as rubber cement (I currently use weldwood, with the red label). I would prefer something that is store bought, but I am completely open to brewing something up myself. I am sick of the fumes, and I always prefer the more natural route. I've heard that some people use PVA glue for leather on leather bonding, but it takes about 24 hours to set, and time is money. Also, PVA isn't natural. At the moment, the only thing I really use glue for, is to join two pieces of leather together at the edge, so I can set my stitching holes. As always, thank you so much for any advice! Zayne
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Okay, will do. Although, originally I wanted to stay away from using alcohol, I can not find anything else that seems like it might do the same job, that is less hazardous. You know, honestly, I don't really even know what is bad about using isopropyl. Is it the fact that they "poison" the alcohol so that people won't drink it? Im assuming vinegar black doesn't need a mold retardant? Or does it?
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I decided to toss the batch and start a new one. I ordered about 5 dozen black walnuts (in hull, of course) online, and decided to give those a shot. They are 1 week into fermentation. The only reason I decided to discard the previous batch is because I want to have a more consistent color with subsequent batches, as I plan on using the dye for items I will be selling. I do have another question about storage concerning both vinegaroon, and the black walnut dye. I would like to store them in 1 gallon, glass wide mouth jars, preferably with plastic lids, as you (at least I think it was you) mentioned that vinegaroon can be harsh on metal. You did also mention the inevitability of mold growth. If I decided not to go with using isopropyl, would using an airtight lid help inhibit mold growth? Would using an airtight lid cause any problems like, say, causing the container to explode/crack, with either vinegaroon or walnut dye? I wouldn't want to have to cook out the alcohol if I used it in my dyes, is that step even necessary in your experience? If I did use isopropyl, does the percentage matter? I have some 91% isopropyl that I would use if that was the decision. Thanks again!
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GAH! I just found out that the "black walnuts" that I had been fermenting are, in fact, english walnuts. For some reason the family friend had thought they were black. Back to square one.
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I had it in my mind to not use q-tips any more because I had tried using them to apply gum trag to the edges with messy results in the past, I never thought to use them with water. Great suggestion! I also will keep the advice for burnishing thinner leather in mind. Thanks!
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Ooooo, I like the use of eucalyptus in your mixture! I am a big fan of essential oils and had been wondering in what ways I might integrate some into my leather working. Do you think that substituting Extra Virgin Olive Oil for Neatsfoot in your mixture would do a similar job? Thanks!
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Awesome. Thanks. The walnuts are 1 week into fermentation. Seems like it is going well so far. When I go to boil the nuts, you mentioned that you haven't noticed a difference when adding the nuts along with the peeled husks to the dye. Would it be safe to assume that peeling the husks isn't necessary? Also, I assume that when boiling the husks/nuts for 3+ hours you'll be also boiling off a lot of liquid. Should I be adding water to the boil as needed? Or should I just leave it and wait til the boil produces a somewhat milky texture? Would adding a small amount of steel wool to the boil be at all recommended? The majority of the walnuts I gathered were old and rotten for the most part, not a ton of husk, so I am kind of worried that the dye might not turn out too color/lightfast. There will probably be about a half gallon worth of soak water remaining after removing the nuts from the container. Zayne
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How much water would you suggest putting in the container for the pre-soak? level/a couple of inches above the water? or does it not matter? Also, when doing the pre-soak, is temperature a factor when letting them ferment? Would it be okay if I left them outside in 60-80 degree weather? Would it make a difference if it were in the sunlight vs. shade? I just filled a large pot half full with walnuts and put water over them and they are all floating, should I weigh them down so they are completely submerged? Sorry for the plethora of questions, I just want to make sure I'm getting this right. Thanks again, Zayne
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Those look great. Ill have to give that a shot. Mine is going to be a perfect circle, how would you recommend pressing that? I would imagine in a "+" shape starting from the center?
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Would this press be able to be modified in a similar way? http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html I like what you did with that, although I am not a welder, Is there another work around? Thanks! Is the 6 ton press the harbor freight one? I might buy one. Did you have to make any modifications to it?
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No transfer? Even if i were to dip dye a belt in vinegaroon, it wouldn't transfer to ones pants? That is amazing. You are an encyclopedia of leather. Thank you. I also really like that that olive oil/beeswax paste idea. I will give it a try. I have my first batch of vinegaroon brewing outside right now, it is a week in so far.
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I am going to purchase a large (10 x 10 cm) brass stamp to emboss some veg tan. The stamp will fit into my adjustable heated embossing tool and would work well for its intended purpose, but I prefer the look of the stamp when simply hammered or pressed into the leather, rather than burned. I was going to buy a 1/2 ton arbor press from harbor freight to see if that does the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html The problem with that press is that it only has a 1 inch square ram, and I am afraid that the pressure won't be spread out evenly across the stamp, resulting in an uneven emboss. I was thinking about getting a couple of square pieces of thick metal to place between the ram and the stamp, and then on the opposite side, under the leather, to see if that would help, but I am unsure. Do you guys have any better ideas? The most economical approach is the one I would prefer. Thanks! Zayne
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I was considering buying a 1/2 ton arbor press with a 1 inch square ram for a large 10 x 10 cm brass stamp. I also had the idea of placing metal plates on either side of the stamp to see if it would even out. Are their any other ideas you might have for achieving an even stamp with a press like that? Here is the one I was considering buying: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html
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Is there a need to apply a finish (like resolene) to seal in the dye to avoid crocking for vinegaroon, walnut dye, or other natural dyes/stains? Do you know of any natural finishes that would do as well as resolene?
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Look who it is! Everytime I try to find more information on dye, I keep finding your comments the most helpful. Anyways, how much water do you put in the pot before simmering? do you fill just past the top of the husks? If I were to make say... 1 gallon of walnut dye, and I wanted it darker, how much steel wool would i put in the dye, and how long do you think Id have to wait for it to resolve? Thanks Zayne
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Do you have an example of what technique is used as far as the iron is concerned? Do you think just using beeswax would do the same thing, rather than the "special edge paint"?
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The only problem with glycerin is that I have read that some animals might be allergic to it, and I plan on making dog collars, I would like to be able to use the same products throughout all of my items. I also know that paraffin is a petroleum derivative and can be harmful. What would I use a soldering iron for? I have one, but hadn't thought that it might be useful in leatherwork. What do you use one for? Thanks
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Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!
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I actually just realized that a family friend has a few black walnut trees. Do you know what time of year is best to harvest the nuts for the husks? I think they are probably still green now, does that matter? Is there a method to drying them out (if necessary). Thanks.
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I think I am going to try out the vinegaroon. I have done a little more research about it and about removing the odor, and I feel more confident. A couple of questions, how exactly do you "burn the oil" out of 0000 steel wool? You mentioned it earlier, and I have read it in all the threads concerning vinegar black. When you say walnut husks, you mean the green outer part of the walnut, before the shell? Where would I get walnut husks if I don't have/know anyone with a walnut tree? Thank you so much, by the way. I really can't believe how helpful everyone on leatherworker.net is. Zayne Also, If I did want to make some brown dye with walnut
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I see! I kind of figured so about the mordants concerning leather (maybe because tannins are used in the tanning process of veg tan leather). I have read that you can get black when using black walnut husks, have you had any experience with this? I would prefer avoiding the smell of vinegar all together, if at all possible. Thanks! P.S. - It does sound like you have a VERY understanding wife! My girlfriend would not be happy. Luckily I have an ugly basement room that no one ever goes in.
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Thank you for the plethora of information. I have experimented with super dark concentrated coffee, highly concentrated black tea, and blackberries. I am going to give black grapes a try tonight, and vinegaroon and the walnut husks a try in the very new future. I have a question, I have left a scrap of leather in a cold coffee bath for about 30+ hours now and have reached a color that I like. Does it damage the leather or affect the strength at all by leaving it soaking for that long? I have also come across an article that mentions that you can use salt for berry based dyes, and vinegar for plant based dyes, to act as a mordant. Would salt damage the leather at all by either letting it soak in bath that contained salt for 24+ hours? With vinegaroon, or even if I was to use vinegar as a mordant with my other dyes, would that make the leather stink of vinegar? Also, does dipping the leather and allowing it to soak in any of these baths make a difference whether the bath is hot or cold? Basically, I am just trying to avoid damaging the the leather. Thanks! Zayne
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Wow! I wasn't expecting such an in depth response, thank you so much. This was EXACTLY what I was looking for! Would it be reasonable to store the dyes in glass mason jars? Also, although I am not opposed to using isopropyl as a preservative, are their any other alternatives besides freezing? I really would like to avoid any chemicals if at al possible. I found this: http://www.naturalcosmeticnews.com/new-ingredients/the-most-popular-natural-preservatives-2/ Would any of those ingredients be a good substitute for alcohol/freezing? I read that potassium sorbate is a fairly good natural preservative, although I wouldn't know if I would need to use it in combination with anything else.
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Hello all, I have been using fiebings pro oil dye on all of my dyed projects. I do like the way that it sits in the leather, but I am the type of person that would much rather use a more natural alternative when it comes to most methods. I have heard about using cold black coffee to darken leather, as well as multiple light coats of extra virgin olive oil left out in the sun. I am more keen to these types of methods. I was wondering if anyone knows of, or has had any experience with, making their own plant based leather dyes? I have heard of people using organic material such as: onions blueberries cedar walnut husks alder blackberries elderberries fern fronds etc... I do have access to these items, but I am unsure of the process in which to get the pigment out of the item, as well as applying the dye, and storage. Edit: Do you think this method would work for dying leather? http://pioneerthinking.com/crafts/natural-dyes Thanks! Zayne