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Everything posted by Hilly
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I don't think the kit lens is junk at all. There are some bad copies out there, but the one I have is really sharp. It's a great little lens to use while you figure out what direction you're gonna take in photography, and while learning to use an SLR. I don't know why so many people love to slam it. I have many other nice lenses, such as a Canon 70-200 f4L, and a Sigma 50-500. I also own a sigma 105macro, and the Canon 50mm f1.8II cheapo, and I still find my kit lens on board quite often. I guess it's a matter of opinion. http://www.pbase.com/justpeachy/image/49252702 A macro to get you started http://www.pbase.com/justpeachy/image/62190573 Shot with the Sigma 50-500mm
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I have the Canon 50mm f1.8 II lens. It is a nice, inexpensive little lens, but it does have it's drawbacks, such as being notorious for inconsistent focus, and a cheap build. What can you expect for $80
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Maybe it's a mole?
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Hey, it's TONS better than the one I made! Maybe the braid isn't as tight as you'd like because you're going around a convex edge? I think maybe the holes need to be closer than if you were doing a straight edge? Opposite happens in a concave edge - the braid is too close together? BUT I could be wrong. Lord knows THAT'S happened on more than one occasion! Have a nice day!
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Jason, a man after my own heart 'cept that'd be a '65 Mustang fastback. Just like the one collecting dust in my garage....
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Yeah, I got the AS head knife from Tandy. Clay M. touched up the blade right out of the box so it was super-duper sharp when I got it. I loved it to death till I used it so much it got dull. Now I'm trying to master sharpening. I got it a lot sharper than it was, but still not exactly the way wicked sharp should be...
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Umm, what's the difference between a leather slicker and an edge slicker?
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ArtS, that is really beautiful and UNIQUE! I love it!
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That's a really nice impression. Where did you get that stamp? The ones I have are not quite that crisp looking.
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Thanks Keith. By "squishy", I meant that my lines of BW stamping got too close together, and they looked as if they had been squished together.
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I'm wondering, too.
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Thanks, Anne! I think this will help a lot! UPDATE: I tried stamping using the tutorial you provided, and it works awesome! Thanks again! :jump:
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I've given my basketweave stamps several go rounds, and every single time, my work ends up crooked, or some lines look squishy . How do you keep it going in a straight line, and keep it from getting squishy looking? I've tried very lightly scribing a line for each line of stamping, and it helps some, but I'm not sure it's the best way. Also takes forever. I have the same problem with that 3 sided basket stamp. Do others of you have the same trouble, or am I just a moron? Maybe I just need new trifocals... How to fix the problem? Still scratchin my head, Hilly
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I'm wondering the same thing. Jim?
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These guys sell spools for $42. Not much better pricing, but sixbux is sixbux. http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index...e2d4987195ad393
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Thank you for organising, Wild Rose. The "list" is fine by me. I have some leatherwork to do now, so please excuse me....
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Okay, sorry if anyone thought I wasn't happy with the other suggestions. I'm fine with the "list". JLD will be getting a package from me Can't wait to get started. Sorry Johanna and Wild Rose. Didn't mean to step on toes or make more work for anyone.
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Here's my thoughts on everything.... Johanna puts everyone's names in a hat, and draws one name. That person has to send something to the next name out of the hat, and so on. The last persons name to be drawn has to send something to the first name drawn. That way, you don't get to pick who you want something from, because that wouldn't really be fair. The item has to be gender appropriate. Johanna should get the snail mail and email addresses and genders of everyone involved, and send the name and address and gender of the recipient to the sender. Nobody except Johanna should know who has who's name, that way it would be a total suprise to everyone. Nobody would be able to voice preferences because they don't know who has their name. There should be a deadline set of at least 30 days. Everyone should send their items out on the same day. That way most everyone would get a package on their doorstep around the same time. It would be sort of like Christmas. A copy of the pattern/plans should accompany each project! Maybe even photos of the work in progress or photos and a tutorial? Everyone has to post photos of the item they recieve, and tell who made it. Now, this is just a thought, but maybe several months later, we could all make the item we recieved (because the plans/patterns were included), and auction them off for a good cause, or something. Maybe give the proceeds to maintain this website or something.
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I'd like to get in on this, though I'm not real great Just lemme know who what where, etc.
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It depends on what you're stitching, and whether you are stitching by hand, or using a machine. For general hand stitching, a lot of folks use waxed linen thread.
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While I was using a utility knife, I got results much like you are describing. After stitching, I just sanded the edges till they were even. I have since bought a head knife, and am able to effortlessly cut through 8-9oz leather in one pass, with straight edges (no undercutting). It cuts curves very easily - even pretty tight curves. Just have to tip the blade back onto it's point to do curves. Head knives take a little practice and demand a LOT of respect, but after buying one, I will never go back to cutting with a utility knife! If you plan on continuing with leatherwork, consider purchasing a head knife. They cost a few $$$, but you won't regret it.
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I don't know why, but I can stitch and stitch and stitch, and my fingers/hands never get sore. It's been that way since day one.
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Wow Marlon, I've never heard that. I guess we can all learn something new. Thanks for the education.
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First off, hello and welcome! You can buy edge bevelers from Tandy and many other leathercraft supply places for about $8. They're just little wooden handled tools in different sizes that you push along the edge of your leather. Why do you need to bevel lace? You can also buy "round" lace already on a spool. The top surface is rounded and the bottom is flat. Check out http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/ for starters. It could make your life a lot easier Have fun!
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Looks like Osborn #4700 - T12 nylon tufting twine to me.