MY63

I fitted the handle and have finally started assembly the back and middle sections are sewn together and I am about to start sewing the front in place.

Thanks Bob I think you are right the handle will stay as it is.

I am still undecided about the handle although I think there is a chance I will keep it. In the mean time I have made the shoulder strap I wanted to have adjustment on both sides so I have attached the trigger hooks to the buckles with short pieces of leather.

I had a bit of a panic yesterday in my mind I had decided that the front of this case would look really good if the centre of the lock was in line with the buckles. Somehow this became more important than the actual position that the lock needed to be in for the flap to close onto. I was quite relieved to dry fit everything and found that it still worked. The handle is my next concern as I now feel it is a little too large for this case it is 175 mm between centres the case is 400 mm wide If anyone has any thoughts I would love to hear them

Yesterday I learned another important lesson don't assume you have plenty of suede just because it is rolled up and wrapped. So as you can see from the pictures I started making the little stuff. The straps and buckle holders as well as the anchor points for the "D" rings for the shoulder strap. In the first picture you can see where I marked out the wrong arc for the "D" ring anchors I spotted this before I started cutting.

Your mistakes are exactly what I am aiming for that is a very high quality wallet.

The thickness was a compromise I decided on 2 mm after speaking to the guys at Abbey England my plan is to keep this case so I will find out if it does not work. I have thinned the leather around the joints and plan on lining the whole thing in green suede. I think it will be ok strength wise once it is sewn together. The old document cases have the trade name pendragon on them the name is now owned by Swaine Aideny Brigg which having read your thread elsewhere I am sure you will recognise. I am quite lucky the two document cases I restored recently were sold before I had a chance to advertise them but my main aim in restoration was to learn how to make cases.

Here is todays progress I cut out the pieces using the templates I made this morning. I marked out the gusset piece and used a groving tool to score the inside of the leather which I then wet to make it easier to bend. More detail on my blog Michael

Thanks Monica I am happy to share the progress. This morning I have marked out and cut the front flap the document case I used for my inspiration has gone to a new home and although I have others in my restoration queue they are all slightly different. I wanted to check the symmetry of the curves so I made a single corner piece which was a really good idea as they did not match.

I am making a new case for myself the design comes from some old English cases that I have restored. Although the handle design is a combination of an old Gladstone bag I am working on and a video I saw on youtube. I am using a London Tan English bridle hide from Sedgewick's. Hopefully I have uploaded three pictures one shows my components all the brassware is made by Abbey England and was very reasonably priced. The other two show the handle which is the first piece I have made there is a full story on my blog if anyone is interested. As the interior will be green suede I have decided to use green thread I am not 100% sure of this (thread colour) but I am going with for now. Thanks MIchael

I have restored these cases in the past and I am currently restoring one now I remove all of the stitching and add a suede liner which adds strength they are high quality cases from an interesting company. To answer your question I use Fiebing's mink oil with excellent results.

I can't help with your first issue but when riveting using standard rivets the front of the rivet needs to be held tight against the front of the lock, I use a rivet set a metal rod with a cup for the rivet head to hold it tight. Wood or leather will deform and make for a loose fit. A ball peen hammer is best for riveting but I often use a small bolt with a slightly dished end to peen over the end of the rivet as I can place it where I want it then hit it with the hammer. I am sure you could remove the rivets and try again a tighter fit may resolve your locking issues small washers behind the rivets may also help them to grip the leather. If all else fails would it be possible to cut a piece of leather larger than the lock mount the lock to that and stitch that to the case and make a feature of it. Hope that helps I am not an expert but have had similar issues.

I have restored an old English case with a similar lock they are riveted in place with a piece of leather glued over the backing plate no stitching that I can see. I have a few of these cases in my restoration queue I will try and post a picture although flicker has just changed all of the settings again so I am a little lost. I would also like to make such a case from scratch so would be interested in watching your progress

Hi Monica I am fairly new to leatherwork and have only bought one english bridle hide it came from http://www.je-sedgwick.co.uk/category/bridle-leather/ I bought it through Abbey England it had very little in the way of marks and blemishes it had a waxy finish but it is supposed to. You bags are very good quality Michael

Hi Britkk I am new to leather work and have been asked to make a ten pen case from English bridle leather I tried edge kote etc without success. I have had success using what leather workers call vinegaroon it is steel wool dissolved in white vinegar left for a few days until dissolved turns edges black instantly. I am getting lots of wax coming off but not colour so I can't help there.

Hi Guys I am new here I have some experience with veneer I have a very small block plane that uses razor blades so no problems with sharpening. it is called a David razor plane in the UK less than £10 not sure on availability elsewhere.