carver

I strop constantly seems like on every cut . I have 8 different head and round knives most take a great edge just won’t hold it like this Leather wrangler swivel knife . I have probably used it for 40 plus hours of actual cutting and it is still sharp ... ( this is my full time job ) . looking for a round knife like that .

Looking for a new round knife something around 4 inches any recommendations ? I have I stolman not impressed a gomph and and an Osborne that are my main knives but looking for something that holds an edge longer . have an old rose but the blade is 5.5 inches just too big . do use it for skiving . All take a great edge but the stolman . just don’t hold them as long as I would like . Bought a leather wrangler swivel knife and it holds and edge for ever and got me to thinking there had to be better round knives . Any recommendations?

Weavers sell a pour on product to harden soft leather like belly . I haven't used it but have seen it in their catalog . Maybe give them a call and talk about it there is usually somebody around who can give accurate answers . Hot water will make it stiffer on a temporary basis but if it isn't immobilized it will eventually become limber . I have done that on some holsters . I was told by an old timer to dip it in boiling water but have been afraid to try that . But he insisted it wouldn't hurt the leather . I tried drying a piece of scrap in the oven at 300 degrees and it burnt the leather and caused it crack . I only left it in about 5 minutes .I have sandwiched kydex between layers of leather to stiffen up notebooks I made and it worked much better than the traditionally used cardboard .

I have used the Tandy pro dye and fiebing on suede saddle seats it didn't really rub off but it does make the leather stiff . Was trying to dye a yellow seat black best I could get was dark gray which it looked nice that way saddle was black . It just didn't have a feel customer was happy though . Actually that's why I came on here too see if their were any better alternatives for dying a saddle seat . I will give angelus a call

My Toro very rarely will miss the holes in reverse so you should be safe . the trick is not to flip the reverse lever until you are on the up stroke about 1/4 inch from bottom position of needle if your really worried about it just flip the lever to reverse and run the wheel by hand . you can adjust where the needle is going that way . also make sure you are picking the foot up so the leather is free to maneuver and not mark up the surface of the leather . on that thin of leather I will make the edge a folded over seam so their is no edge to need finishing or another way to explain it make your bottom layer look like the top layer without the core. like where you folde it over at the hardware I dont know how far your sew line is set in but if you have enough room you may be able to slide a thin piece of plastic or even card board between the 2 layer and use a round knife or sharp knife to clean up your liner leather. make it more even . Nice collar I like your design

need to be pretty close to square the above companies dint carry them so still looking for a supplier....... If I was smarter I could post a picture of the hobbles

if your stamp has a lot of detail the steel stamps hold up well and can give great detail the delrin also work well but wont hold up as long. Delrin are cheaper to buy both of these would be to make an impression in the leather. I wouldnt try branding with a stamp .

thanks guys I hadnt look here in a while had given up getting a response and if you find some more somewhere just message me THANKS AGAIN

I am looking for a supplier of approximately 2 in square metal loops around 1/4 in round stock and welded . preferably stainless they need to be pretty strong as they are for a quick change horse hobble. mast used to carry them but they are out of business and weaver doesnt have anything that big

I doubt you did that with the sprayer it looks just everyday wear and stuff being stacked on it as already mentioned I use an air compressor to blow the loose the dirt off then blue foam cleaner and water and a tooth brush to get down into the tooling grooves . the foaming helps lift the dirt . and brush gently for the really stubborn dirt down in the tooling grooves I use a hand held pump srayer and on the tightest setting and squirt the dirt out . then let it dry out completely at room temp this can take several days depending on the humidity, after its completely dry I will put a product like Bic 4 on it restore the fats in the leather don't saturate the leather with oil light coats for restorations . If its a work saddle the power washer works just stay back a little . the water wont hurt the leather as long as you let it dry out and replace the fats in the leather without saturating it.

I bought my first new machine and its the best money I ever spent from Steve at cobra . any problems were caused by me and Steve straightened it out over the phone . I bought a second new machine from another vendor and have regretted it since it got to my shop . the machine is fine the after the sale service sucked and even the president/ owner of the company was a total ass. Steve STILL helped me straighten it out even though I didnt buy from him I have learned that the sale price of the machine isnt always the only cost involved . Great customer service is also part of what you are paying for and going forward I wont be trying to save a few bucks .... and it ended up costing the same anyway just to get it do what a cobra would do. and when you screw up a project because the machine isnt working right there is yet another cost. CALL COBRA . and I promise Steve can talk you through any problem you may encounter .

I bought a used 1750 rpm 1 horse motor off Craig list years ago mounted it on a board with a on off switch . . I make discs out of hard 100% wool saddle pads. Weavers leather sell padding I believe .the synthetic pads will melt I am told . center punch the disc then turn it on true it up with a rasp to get it truley round because never seem to hit dead center for the arbor to go thru . it works pretty good for stuff I dont need a hard glass finish on but doesnt compete with a hand rubbed edge in my opinion

I have one it works fine as long as you keep the blade sharp . .... the blade gets dull pretty quick and has to be re honed seems like maybe a steeper angle on it would help . what happens is the edge on the blade starts to curl and chip. That said it must not bother me too much because I use it almost every day. I had a guy in the shop bumped the blade with the side of his hand and he had to get stitches. I had asked him several times to to move away from it and warned him several times how sharp it was.

I would like in as well