kellyblues

You are next in line. I will keep you posted

It's been said the best way to find something you've lost is to replace it. Well, I can verify that one. I miss placed several of my hand tools and after nearly a year of not being able to find them I started replacing the ones I was missing the most. As luck would have it I found said hand tools one week to the day after I purchased the last thing I needed. Up for sale here are 2 C.S.Osborne edegers. Size 2 and size 0. I purchased the 2 about 9 months ago and has been used maybe 5 times. I purchased the 0 exactly one week ago. It's been used twice. Both of these edegers are very sharp and in perfect condition. They edege dry leather with minimal effort and on wet leather they glide along like they are cutting air. Price is 25 each+ shipping for the Osborne's & 20 for the Ctaftool. Some may wonder why I don't just keep them because having a back up is always nice. I have multiples of all the sizes allready , no need for another set of multiples.

Thank you very much! Properly casing IS the only way to go IMO. The other thing is make sure you are using a glass slicker. It makes a world of difference. Another step I make sure to do if I'm stamping a full piece like this is rubbing some saddle soap on the surface of the leather before it soaks up all the water and then slick it down. It makes a difference. The other thing that plays into the crisp stamping are the Barry King stamps. That crisp color wasn't easy to figure out. Took me a while and it looked like I was in the business of making small pieces of green colored leather for a while. This picture isn't 1/2 of them and no two of them got the same process.

We have the Motorola Moto Max phones. There's a JBL speaker you can get that magnetically attaches to the phone. It's freaking awesome. So, I of course had to make a protective case to put it in when not in use. I got called away just as I made the last border impression and wasn't able to return for a few hours. By then it was too dry to tool and I didn't feel like casing it again just to bevel a couple of lines. It looks okay as it is. The stamps are all BK. Lined with supple pig leather.

I have had the same concern about the support on some of those. Particularity the Cowboy CB-4500 because I'm going to make the trip over there very soon to purchase one. I've heard they are surprisingly sturdy despite the appearance.

I have a Consew 227R on a conventional table and find it quite handy having the extra work space.

Looks like a Juki DU-1181N clone to me.

Or the same. lol

Looks great!!!!! I can't wait until I get home tomorrow and show you pictures of mine. You will understand why when I share. I made mine about 5 years ago.

And me

I mark my spacing most of the time where the stamp will cover it up. I'm not sure I understand what you are saying about a guide line ( my fault I'm sure ). As for the tool, It's a Barry King so I won't be filing it down. However that does give me an idea....

Right! I have a project I'm working on in which I've run into this problem. I can do 90's and full rounded. It's 90 on the inside and rounded on the outside. I don't want to change the layout to the point of making both either 90 or rounded..

That is all GREAT information. I didn't see where anyone addressed a rounded corner exactly but I found a lot of that very useful. I could have missed it too. lol I'm off to try that out..... What about where the outside is a radius and the inside is square?

I can't seam to work out using a Serpentine on a rounded outside corner without ending up with a blob in the corner. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I didn't recognize it. I glanced at the thread and thought you needed help getting something so I offered to help. I have a bunch of machines and couldn't begin to to profess what they all are. Heck, I haven't seen many of them in a long time. I've purchased a good number of groups of sewing machines and set aside the ones I have no use for. There was a factory close to me that made jeans for years. When it shut down the building and everything thing in it sat dormant for about 30 years. When the contents sold I purchased the bulk of the sewing machines. Nobody around here knew a thing about sewing machines and I knew I could sell the super E really quite. The man that started and owned that factory was a cobbler at one time and had all the machines to perform those tasks. I sold the vast majority of that stuff to the same person. I pulled one of the 29's to use for myself and stashed the rest and haven't even looked at the rest of them in years. Apparently one of the machines I thought was a 111 I have now learned with this conversation is a 117. I would go look but it would take me a week to get to them and I'm not that interested .

So that's what that is.....I have a couple...few 111's and one of them has that. I was after one machine but had to buy the group, I came out okay. The rest have been stacked out of the way since. I plan on keeping at least one because I have a near perfect treadle base with all that mess. I was after a Landis super E. Sold the super E for twice what I paid for the group the next day. Only thing I've used from that particular herd is one of the Singer 29's. Thanks for the explanation and pics.

Frankfort, Indiana. I don't mind green at all. I landed some stuff today down in Indy that's really nice but the green has my attention for sure. Do you have a picture?

I did the burn test. It's upholstery leather. Thanks everyone! This stuff is great for making tool rolls with. I got a bunch of it a long time ago at an auction with some leather tools. I've used all but a couple of pieces and want to get some more.

Have it sent to me and I will send it anywhere you need it to go.

Thanks everyone. I've used sheen and resolene. Guess I haven't applied enough coats....... Time to test on some scrap

How can I get a serious deep shine one veg tan? Like BAM shinny,show car shinny.

What type of material is this? What is it called? I think it's a pleather of some type but I can't find it online anywhere. It's kinda spongy and about the thickness of a nickel. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I took Jim Linnell's " Buffalo" class several years ago. He cut every single line with a big ole fat wide blade in a craftool pro knife. Of course every cut was perfect. It's all about the skill + the feel. Personally I love my Barry King. I have an older Osborne that I keep a wide fat blade in, it is a nice knife. One thing I wouldn't skimp on in any fashion is the blade. You will find you can make the same cuts with a 7.99 Tandy knife with a good hollow ground SHARP blade. Something that took me a while when I first started out was figuring out that how well the leather is cased will effect you cutting. Properly cased leather, sharp blade and it glides like cutting butter.

I was surfing on my phone, I see that now that I'm on a desktop..........

Where are you located ?