TwinOaks

You can put stitch lines pretty much wherever you want, as straight or curvy as you want. As long as you follow the profile of the gun with at least one line per side, you should be fine. I think straight lines are appropriate on something like HKs, and Glocks. On others like 1911s, Hi Powers, etc., then the stitch line needs to bend to follow the weapon. It just helps the holster look like it's supposed to be with that particular gun.

Gimp also has a pretty steep learning curve, but it's incredibly versatile. It's also FREE. There are currently Youtube tutorials on how to use it, and from what I've seen on them, they're pretty thorough. Did I mention it's free? Granted, it is NOT a CAD program, but it's certainly worth checking out. One of the nice features (I don't know squat about photoshop, so if it's a feature common between them, just disregard this) is the ability to work in layers. Using the layers, you can overlay objects/designs and scale without modifying the whole image.

Try Ohio Travel Bag, or Hardware Elf.

Just an observation, but since you've sewn the rest of the belt, why not the billets?

One thing you need to know about angles and corners is that they can be a weak point in the leather. For the holster, it shouldn't be much of an issue on the 'inside' corners, as there won't be LOTS of stress on it (hopefully). For the 'outside' corners, I strongly suggest you radius them, at least a little. Radiused corners are far less likely to snag on garments or anything else. They're also more comfortable if they end up poking the wearer. Perhaps the biggest issue is that you can maintain a constant distance from the edge with a radius- with a corner, there will always be a little bit that isn't supported by the stitch. The can lead to the corner de-laminating and getting dog-eared......which looks kinda bad on a custom holster. I'm not suggesting you use a 6 inch radius or anything drastic, just that you 'round off' the corners where possible. For example: where the wings depart the main body, use a 1/4 inch punch to make the transition, instead of an abrupt corner. Same thing with the tops and bottoms of the wings, except you're using just the 1/8th" radius (half the 1/4" punch). This should allow you to maintain that critical stitch line to edge distance, and still have an angular holster. The way you've drawn the second pic is exactly what I'm referring to. One of the most used tools I have is a circle template from my old drafting supplies. I use it to correctly align my radii and have a consistent radius. You could also do something like lightly press a punch against the leather to get the line. After all that......The customer determines what you make. You can offer opinion backed up with fact and advice, but in the end, it's up to the customer.

If you have particularly stringy flesh sides, you can also shave it if you have a good razor.....kinda like shaving wool felt. Then again, if it's THAT stringy, it may be beyond use. I've also had good success using TanKote for slicking the flesh side.....I don't know what's in it, but it smells a lot like Gum Trag.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! You've got a good starter set of tools for basic decorations, and a set of chisels and rotary punch for punching lacing holes....some modeling tools, and some odds and ends. Looking at the modeling tools, it appears they are the most used, so I guess one of your forebears did a lot of hand decoration. Don't worry about it, you've either got it or you don't, and there have been things posted on here made with a manicure set that were just absolutely beautiful. Since you're more interested in building instead of decorating, I suggest keeping them for sentimental sake....and you might need one, one day. In any case, we're glad you found us. So, pull up a chair and stay a while. Coffee should be fresh, bathrooms are down the hall on the left, and don't eat the donuts. If you're interested in sewing some pieces together, you'll need to get a few other tools- mainly a decent awl for punching stitch holes, some needles, and some thread. I got my awl from Tandy (Springfield Leather has the same type), my needles from Walmart (upholstery type), and my thread from Hobby Lobby (On-a-string brand waxed linen). There's a TON of info here for free, or you can invest in some leathercraft books from several of our suppliers (see ad banners at top of page). Ask questions as often as you like, but be ready for a lot of reading in the answers.

Burnish the mouth band before assembly.

Antique and Hi-liter are designed to go in the cuts and tooling of the leather to help with the 3-D appearance. You should have your leather the color you want it before applying the resist/sealer.

Okay, this thread has been cleaned up, resulting in the OP's intent: To sell some leather related machinery. This is what this thread will be: A used machinery advertisement.....maybe a discussion of the machines. It will not become an episode of Jerry Springer. If you don't see part of your post, or your post is gone completely, it was done so for the continuity of the thread.

A perfectionist you might be, but you won't turn out a perfect holster on the first try. A couple of years into it, I still occasionally add to the scrap bin, so don't get frustrated. Probably the simplest method for making a dual use holster would be to make a clam shell/ western rig hybrid, with a belt tunnel loop on the back, and add D rings to the top of it so you can suspend it from a shoulder holster's yoke. Look up Jim Simmon's holster tutorial in the 'Holter, Sheath, etc." forum. It's one of the pinned topics, located at the top of the forum. It's about as "step-by-step" as you'll find.

Here's a great explanation and demo:

Thread has been relocated. If you have some sewing machines for sale, please post them in the Leatherworker.net > Marketplace > Items For Sale > Machinery > sewing machines section.

A folded edge is simple and can look good, as well as be very durable. KK's tutes show doing a bound edge , which is even nicer.

Any contact cement will do, though you will get many suggestions based on what folks are using. I happen to use weldwood because I'm a hobby maker (wishing I could expand) and can get it locally instead of ordering it online. I don't think you'll need to thin Weldwood, as long as you keep it in an airtight container. I bought a quart and use that to refill the little bottle with a brush in the cap. My 'immediate use' jar does thicken a little (solvents evaporating out of it), but the quart can is just as runny as the day I bought it. If needed, you'll need to check the cement you're using and see what solvent is in it. Be careful doing this as almost all of them have "adequate ventilation" notices on them. Without some pretty intense research into chemistry, I'd suggest using ONLY the solvent listed, and not mixing multiple types.

That will work fine, as long as you regulate the pressure down to the recommended PSI for the airbrush. You will probably need hose adapters, but they should be available in packs near the compressor.

I think the answer to your question is to measure out the full linear length of the clip, including all the little curves, (or just make it long, and trim when you're done) and sew a sleeve out of pigskin lining. Then, feed the sleeve onto the clip.

"Pieces are made from stainless steel"

Latigo is double tanned- veg tan AND alum tanned (tawed).

It depends on the type of glue, and what that specific glue uses as its solvent. For example: Weldwood uses tolulene and acetone as solvents, so that's what I should use to thin it. Barge uses Xylene as its solvent, so using tolulene/acetone might not work. If in question, you can look up the MSDS for any product, and identify the VOCs.

If you have a Grainger nearby, that would be a good place to look. If not, check with some local machine shops; they should have a good idea on where to get things.

Sweat is more than water, it includes a little bit of oil, some salt, and other trace minerals. So you're not just dealing with the spot in the dye, you're also looking at a little splotch of leather that will absorb differently than the rest. I'd say stop work on the holster and reproduce a sweat drop on scrap. Do your experiments THERE. Some things you might try, are the purell (presumably to 're-wet' the dye), putting a little rubber cement on it, let dry, and peel off to try to pull the contaminates off, or giving it a good coat of light oil before the MPB to hopefully even out the absorption rate. In the past, I've used liquid latex (model building section of Hobby Lobby) to pull ALL the dye off a project and start over.

Thanks Knipper for posting the info. A lot of our more experienced members have learned this through trial and error, probably because no one ever told them the difference. This bit of information should prove invaluable to our new members (and maybe to others) for keeping the keenest of edges on their steel.