TwinOaks

IMO, the holster would benefit with a little more detail boning to aid in retention/security as the holster stretches a little with use. You've left plenty of room between the grip and the holster, which is a good thing, but I'm wondering if that back strap gets in the way of the grip. Are you able to get a full firing grip? If not, I think the solution would be to move the back strap out another inch or so, and you should be fine.

Jarrett, you did a much nicer job on the petals and leaves this time. There's still a little room for improvement on the stems/leaves, particularly at the end of the hair-on section. Compare the 3-D aspects of that section with the more deeply tooled petals, and it's a pretty significant difference. On the matted areas, it looks like you've still got a few chatter marks, and I think you can eliminate them by holding the tool just above the leather and using the tension in your fingers as a spring. The blow from the mallet/maul will still drive the tool to the leather to make the impression. By holding just above the leather, you can sweep back and forth a bit while tapping. For matting the areas between the details, you'll want to cover ground quickly, and overlapping impressions help to level everything out, and precision placement isn't as critical as it is when beveling. The final thing I'll add is to look into getting or making a petal lifter.....aka Pro Petal. There is a recent thread about them if you'd like to search for it, but it's basically a solid cylinder cut at an angle that's used to push under (and thereby 'lift') portions of the petal without beveling any deeper. It's a small detail that I think would really make the flowers stand out more. P.S. You can make a petal lifter out of a screwdriver shaft or round stock. Cut at an angle, polish 'til it shines.

Enough bickering. If anyone wants to get into a flame war, do it through PMs or email. Leave it off the open forum. Please comment on if you have constructive criticism to add that is RELEVANT TO THIS THREAD. Thank you.

Look up posts by one of our long time members - Horsehairbraider. She had excellent examples of what can be done, and also IIRC, posted good info on HOW it was done. ETA: http://www.beautiful-horses.com/bracelet1.htm Here's here website where she shows making a bracelet.

Excellent attitude, smokin'. Some while ago, I asked Johanna to post a checkbook cover I made, but to post it anonymously. I wanted the full critique, all comments, and no bias from friends. I got exactly what I wanted, which was a no holds barred critique of the piece. None of it was rude, but much of it was a bit harsh. I just didn't see anywhere else to improve on the piece, because I didn't know what to look for. Our members delivered an honest critique without knowing who the maker was. Sometimes, that's exactly what we need to help us move up to the next level in our craft.

Я начал тему, чтобы спросить у людей образцы для Вас. Прочитайте это здесь http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34236&pid=212278&st=0entry212278

Hi everyone, We have a new member (Gorec) who is looking for free patterns/instructions on making motorcycle accessories - tool rolls, saddle bags, bibs, seats, etc. in this thread. I've pointed him to this section for the tutorials, and now have this thread open to try and help him. The member outside the U.S. and is relying on computer translation. Does anyone have any patterns they'd be willing to share? I've been using http://translation2.paralink.com/English-Russian-Translation/ to converse with him.

For that really stringy back, you can either invest in a machine to do it ($$$!!!!!), or get a pack of disposable razors to shave it. On REALLY stringy backs, I've even resorted to a hair clipper to shave it down to where the razor doesn't clog up as badly. Just from the looks of it, I don't know that it'd be possible to burnish down the edges. It may be a result of the tannage, maybe the hide itself. Check out Dura-edge on the Springfield Leather site.

Okay, Member is looking for free patterns for motorcycle accessories. Anyone got some they can share? Выглядите здесь первыми. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=63 Прочитайте обучающие программы, и мы будем пробовать найти больше образцов.

Yeah, sweat shield / pinch shield.....it's in the plan NOW!!!!

Перевод был плох, пожалуйста попробуйте еще раз. Если Вы спрашиваете, можете ли Вы загрузить пиратскую копию, ответ - нет. Мы не позволяем этому здесь из-за законов.

Need a little more info that what we've got so far. Is it kinda thick, or pretty thin and runny?.................it should be pretty thin. Are you applying to both pieces to be glued and allowing to set up before sticking together?.......................I haven't had any issues when I follow the directions. Is one or both of the pieces (presuming leather) 'stringy'?.................if so, you might need to shave off the stringy part to get a good bond. Are both pieces dry? Are you pulling it apart at the glue, or are you pulling off a layer of leather? (can happen with really stringy backs) Finally, my oldest one is labeled 2009, so depending on what type container you have, you may have some that's gone bad. The plastic jars tend to let the solvent escape, while the metal cans keep it very fresh. I bought the quart can and refill to the bottle for immediate use.

Slow down......breath..... Okay, hand stitching simplified: The needle size you need will depend on the thread size you use - because of the size of the eye. Now that that is covered, stop buying the big eye needles from Tandy. Go to Walmart's craft section and look for a pack of needles that has 6 or 8 needles in it, two each in four sizes. The whole pack, last time I bought one, was around $2.00. You want the smallest eye you can still get the thread through, so that you stop breaking the eyes. BUT IT"S A SHARP POINT.....yeah, it's a sharp point right up to the time you run a sharpening stone or file across the tip.....then it's a tapered point . When I hand stitch items, I use waxed linen from Hobby Lobby and the two smallest needles in this pack.....I also use them for finishing stitches I make with the BOSS. When I get to the part where I'm back stitching, I use needle nose pliers to get the needle and thread through the hole - short straight pulls, using my thumb on one hand to push the pliers....no big arm movements. You might need to change awl sizes, depending on what you're stitching with, because at a minimum you'll be putting the needle and TWO thread diameters through the hole. On a back stitch, it's a needle and FOUR thread diameters.....which is fine because you're using friction to keep the thread in place. It's not as complicated as your perceiving it to be...just match the needle to the thread, and use the appropriate sized awl.

Not to disparage you or your work, which is very nice, but most members are here to learn to make things like that.....not necessarily to purchase. I think you might have better exposure to potential buyers on Etsy, or a similar site.

How about something like the Cobra class 3/ Toro 3000/ Cowboy 3500 (or jump to the 4 class) ...............and make or buy a flatbed attachment for it? That gives you LOTS of room under the arm, LOTS of room on the presser foot, as well as the versatility for multiple thread sizes. The 9" and 16" machines are Juki 441 clones and will do at least 3/4" under the foot. They also have unison feed which you specify needing.

Sounds like he's skipping a stitch, resulting in the double loop on the hook. I know because I've had it too. However, if pull the lever all the way down and don't short the up stroke I've found I don't have the problem.

You'd go to the local courthouse to file a business. It's cheaper up front because you're buying wholesale, but you still have to pay for it on the back end. Most companies also offer a slightly better base price as well. However, there is a lot more to having a business license than just getting things cheaper. There's a good bit of paper work that HAS to be done, usually on a quarterly basis. If you're after some savings without the hassle, look into some of the memberships offered by several of the suppliers. For example: Tandy offers memberships in two classes, each with an upfront cost, and different amounts of discount. If you're buying large amounts, the membership pays for itself pretty quickly. When I first got into this hobby, I bought a Tandy membership as part of my first order. The discount on the order was more than the membership, so it basically "paid" for itself the first time it was used. Over the course of the next year, I took advantage of the membership and got a LOT more for the money than I would have otherwise. **Just using Tandy as an example, I don't have any affiliations with them**

Well, my google-fu says Chuck Staples made the knife, so there's a good chance he made the sheath as well.

Ironically, one of the reasons I chose EVO over Neatsfoot, and also why I use Aussie conditioner, is the absence of animal based fats. It was explained to me that the animal based fats (glycerides?) are an ideal food source for mold. Down here on the coast, humidity is a huge factor, so anything I can do to eliminate mold/mildew is just another 'plus'. And yes, the method the leather is stored is probably as or more important than the oil used, but every little bit helps. We don't really have much use for the 'tack room' anymore, anyway.

Congratulations! As customer # 'x', you've qualified for a special promotional piece. Included with your belt is a custom strop, stamped to match your belt!!!

Commonly something like Super- (or Satin-) sheen, tan-kote, bag kote, neatlac....... It's a step in the finishing process that seals the leather in preparation for #5......the 'enhancement product' (which probably means antique gel or paste). You seal the leather, add the #5, then wipe off. #5 will stay in the tooled areas, cuts, etc., and dramatically increase the 3-d aspect of the piece. Then the piece gets re-sealed with the top coat. And yes, you can skip the dyeing process and just use oil....and a lot of sun light. You can actually 'tan' leather, and it's a beautiful finish that can't be easily matched by dyes. It still needs to be sealed to protect the leather when it's done. Also, and important note: be sure to take any straps or strings off of it so it doesn't get any tan lines.

Right on the money, Guy. There's two types of pancake holster- one has a mostly flat back, with ALL the molding and stretching on the front piece; the other type utilizes some stretching and molding of the back piece. The second type is easier to make, IMO.

You do realize, don't you, that posting such an ultimatum is likely to generate enough orders to pay for that new house? Thanks for the update on the business plan, it'll help us schedule the orders. I'm glad to hear you're making the right decision and spending the time with family.