llucas

Thanks, Thor. I did not have the first one in your list. It is a 1966 edition, but has more information than later versions for the 205 class. That is very helpful. The one I was using for parts is the one for the subclass -374. If anyone else needs it, it is here: http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Parts_Books_Adler/205-374.pdf

Perfect! That is exactly what I was looking for! Another excellent video. I thought that was what the German language section was saying, but there was some confusion between the terminology for parts between the German language parts list and the explanation. Looks like that transferred to the English version. Is there a similar solution for the upper foot? Or is that not adjustable? I haven't finished that section in the manual. Years ago I was laboring to translate a philosophical article by Heinrich Ott and hit a road block with a few neologisms. A fellow doctoral student was from Austria, so I consulted with him. He read the section and said, "I have no idea what he is talking about, but you must remember: German philosophers do not write to be understood; they write to be admired for their erudition." The same may be true of those who write sewing machine manuals, ha ha.

I have received great advice on this forum regarding the Adler 205-374 I am refurbishing. But I have run into a snag. In checking the action of the alternating feet in the sewing cycle it strikes me that one reason the outside presser feet are leaving a mark on the leather on each side of the top stitch is the outside presser feet don't lift high enough to release the leather even in their highest position in the alternating cycle. The upper foot and the feed dog pull the material back during the cycle and the too-low outside harness feet drag on the leather and mark it. I turned to page 7, sections 2.3, 2.3.2 and 2.3.3 in the Durkopp-Adler Service manual that I downloaded and was struck by the confusing and poor English translation for correcting this issue. There seems to be some confusion of part names when compared to the German language parts list. It has been many, many years since I have read German (my grad school dissertation dealt with Hans-Georg Gadamer and his Wahrheit und Methode) and I find I have forgotten more German language than I ever knew to begin with! I am very, very slowly working through it, but thought I would ask: has anyone on the forum already translated this section of the service manual? The existing English translation is not very good. It is certainly not clear. And my former weak language skills are even weaker now, lol.

As a small business owner I would prefer to avoid retail prices. Take care of the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves. As a person on Social Security income I must watch all costs carefully. Maybe one day I will be a famous holster-maker and not worry about such things, lol. Probably not.

The Kwok Hing KP205RN seems like the best choice for stitching belts close to the edge using the roller edge guide on the Adler 205-374; The Adler 204-22-011-3 Outside Presser Foot from the Cowboy line seems like a good option for general purpose stitching for prefinished leather and veg tan. The best option for a smooth needle plate and feeddog would seem to be the Kwok Hing product you recommend. Still investigating. In a few years these issues will be second nature to me. Right now it is all very new.

I like what I am seeing with Uwe's options, but as a novice with a sewing machine I am trying to figure out all the options. It would be easier if I could see something sewn in a double 8 oz. leather with the Kwok Hing options, lol. I am a very visual person.

Uwe, I like the look of those Kwok Hing feet and the smooth needle plate and smooth feed dog from Kwok Hing you have on eBay. I am leaning in that direction. As a novice with a sewing machine I am sincerely interested in all the options. The harness makers set-up that is currently on my 205-374 badly marks and cuts the prefinished leather and veg tan that I use for belts and holsters. I do have a company set-up and am looking for something less than retail. I do need something that does not mark or damage the leather. I have been hand stitching for a few years and this is my first foray into machine stitching. I am slowly getting up to speed on what will work with my new-to-me rebuilt Adler 205-374 machine. On the retail website Weaver seems a little overpriced. Reasonable for some; overpriced for me. In addition, I am looking at the possibilities to slow down this Adler 205-374. Servo motor with speed reducing pulleys? Speed reducing pulleys with the existing clutch motor? Many things to consider on a limited budget.

Thanks very much. I have a call in to them, awaiting reply. Any idea on the part numbers?

Does anyone know where I can find these walking feet with smooth bottoms for the Adler 205-370 series? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7_tusRFIjw&spfreload=10

What makes Aman Serafil better than the competing brands like Cowboy?

Uwe, thanks again for good information. Very helpful.

Wiz, thanks for sharing your wisdom. I will do as you suggest. The 277 I bought from a company that went belly up. the 346 I purchased new from Campbell-Randall. If the older 277 can be saved it would save me a lot of money. Thanks for the practical suggestion. I will try it. This forum is a great source of practical and pragmatic experience.

The reason I ask is I bought five one pound spools of 277 bonded nylon that is about five years old. While I was trying to adjust an old machine, the brown 277 thread frayed very badly. I read about lubing by immersing thread in a tub of lube and then drying it out before use. Being new to machine stitching I sew prefinished leather and veg tan. So far the older thread I am using frays. Is the older thread dried out? Can it be re-lubed and salvaged? New to this world of sewing leather with a machine. Should I throw the older thread away and buy new thread?

I did find a few links on the internet to thread lube. It comes in a tube and the spool is immersed and then dried. Anyone try this kind of thing to help with thread that is drying out?

I am refurbishing an Adler 205-374 to sew prefinished leather and veg tan. The harness makers setup on the machine has the standard needle plate with notches; serrated feed dog and little feet on the harness makers walking feet. It leaves the back side of the prefinished leather pretty rough and I am not fond of the front stitch with its deep groove. Question: what did you use as a replacement for the needle plate, feed dog and walking feet to get good results for sewing prefinished leather or veg tan used for holsters, gun belts, etc? I need something that will play nicer with the leather and not leave marks.

Another question for everyone: in your opinion who makes the best nylon and polyester thread? And who is the best seller of the brand?

Sonydaze, thanks. A dealer told me they had a different "stretch rate" and that Polyester did not stretch as much as nylon. This forum is a great source of information from practitioners who have learned the hard way what works and what does not. Thanks again. The reason I asked about shelf life and thread drying out is I used the older nylon when I was getting the machine up and running and it frayed pretty badly. If that is from drying out I wonder if the thread can be relubed with some kind of spray?

I posted this in the sewing section, but no response so I'll put it here (since it has to do with sewing machine). It is a newbie question. I recently purchased an Adler 205-374 that I am refurbishing. I am new to machine sewing leather having only hand stitched up to this point. I.e., I am an utter and complete novice who only knows not to put my finger under the needle when the machine is running. I recently purchased five one pound spools of 277 bonded nylon thread at a good price. For my holster sewing I purchased some 346 bonded polyester because I like the look of the heavier thread and the dealer only sold polyester thread. Here is the question: can I use the 277 nylon for the bobbin and the 346 polyester for the top stitch? Or should I only use nylon top and bottom or polyester top and bottom without mixing them? Follow-up newbie question: does bonded nylon thread have a shelf life? This stuff is about five years old.

Here is what it is doing now that I have it working. This is on prefinished 8 oz double layer. The adjustment on the presser feet using the top knob is almost all the way out. Still unsatisfactory. on the back side where the machine is reversed you can see it scrapes the leader pretty badly -- and this is after I filed the sharp edges off the needle plate and feed dog. Pretty rough. Sorry the photos are so blurry. I did this with the iPhone on zoom. Couldn't get my hands still enough. This is what it does to veg tan: By the way, the frayed stitch in the veg tan photo is from a problem I am trying to solve wherein the thread frays a little after it reaches the guide hole on the needle rod shaft and as it passes through the needle eye. Perplexing.

Here is the beastie. Believe it or not, this is AFTER I cleaned it up, lol:

Thanks for the info, Uwe. The plate, feed dog and walking feet on this machine are pretty rough. Here are a few photos.

Uwe, would the left side presser feet and smooth needle plate/smooth feed dog you are selling on eBay be more suitable for finished leather than the harness makers set-up I am using now? The refurbishing of the Adler 205-374 is coming along nicely, but I am finding the harness makers needle plate, grooved feed dog and walking feet leave pretty severe marks and impressions. I have adjusted the presser feet knob on the top until it is almost all the way extended, but the harness makers upper walking foot and the lower harness makers double feet leave deep marks. Indeed, you can see on the bottom serrations and an impression where the feed dog drops below the surface of the plate. It definitely does not look good. I use both pre-finished leather and veg-tan for my holsters and belts. I can make the current set-up work with veg-tan, but it badly mars the pre-finished leather. If you wish to communicate privately my email is: drllucas@aol.com

I have a newbie question. I recently purchased an Adler 205-374 that I am refurbishing. I am new to machine sewing leather having only hand stitched up to this point. I recently purchased five one pound spools of 277 bonded nylon thread at a good price. For my holster sewing I purchased some 346 bonded polyester. Here is the question: can I use the 277 nylon for the bobbin and the 346 polyester for the top stitch? Or should I only use nylon top and bottom or polyester top and bottom? Follow-up question: does bonded nylon thread have a shelf life? This stuff is about five years old.

Glenn, thanks for the contact. Great help on this forum.

Uwe, again great information. Thanks very much. I look forward to your adler video. I downloaded the service manual for the 205-370 and it has the timing instructions. But I have to order a few parts. A couple of distance rings, needle guard spacers for 200, 230 and 250 and 25/200, 26/230 needles (I have an ample supply of 250/27), etc. The screws that holds the outer retention ring for the shuttle/bobbin assembly will need to be replaced. as you look at the cylinder arm there are two screws that hold this assembly in place. the left screw hole is slightly stripped. As the parts are under tension and only these two screws hold it together I must figure out how to repair this to achieve even tension. Tap the hole one size up and use the proper size screw for the new hole (with head size remaining the same)? On this machine the two existing screws are different lengths, but the parts list show them as identical. Also the door on the bobbin/shuttle assembly is missing and needs to be replaced. After all that I have to figure out how to tension the thread and bobbin.