zuludog

I haven't used those skivers that you show because generally I hear they're not very good, and also I took the hint from the fact that if you watch YT Videos of well known and expert leatherworkers, I don't think I've ever seen them use that type either - 'fraid you might just have to buy something else. In which case you have three basic choices - A European style? skiving knife, which looks like a broad stubby hand held chisel A Japanese Leather Knife, aka Japanese Skiving Knife, with it's distinctive offset blade, which feels odd at first but you soon get used to it An English Style paring knife, which has a sloping cutting edge similar to a craft knife, Very often it's just a long strip of steel, without a handle Whichever you get, they can all do a good job, but you must learn to get them razor sharp - there are loads of YT Videos on sharpening & using skiving knives, the usual procedure is a fine stone or abrasive paper followed by a strop. Watch as many as you have the stamina for and you'll pick up the methods Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has several skiving knives on their website, or Search accordingly, or perhaps people in the USA can suggest others FWIW I use a mid priced Japanese Leather Knife for edges & small areas, and a David Razor Plane for larger areas, including the back of the fold over on a belt strap In previous Threads I've posted that I like a JLK, there are several videos on using & sharpening them. I have a mid priced JLK and a very cheap one that you sometimes see on the Net, with Korean? symbols on the blade and a red painted handle. I wouldn't recommend this as it took a lot of work to get a sharp edge on it, and I hear that the latest ones are poor quality Here are a couple of videos, but there are many others

Thanks; I use a stick, so I'll carry on without grease, but I might just make one with a slight amount of grease and see how it goes

I've made leather sharpening strops before, and have simply loaded them with green chromium dioxide stropping compound and away we go and not had any problems But I've been idly Searching YouTube and see that some people oil or grease the leather before applying compound - so which is it, please, to grease or not to grease?

Larry5099 -- I've just noticed & read your Profile more carefully --- Apart from the replies on this Forum, YouTube is your friend -- there are Videos on just about every aspect of leatherwork - choosing tools; making particular items; seeing what other people use and how they do things; techniques such as edge finishing, saddle stitch; sharpening; and so on. Play around with the Search box, follow the prompts and see how you go. Each one will be slightly different reflecting the preferences of the individual worker, but watch a few and you'll get a good idea ...... do some homework and it will save you time, money, and effort in the future

Have a look around your local charity/thrift shop for shirts & blouses, scarves, and so on; you might well find something suitable. There are YT Videos on lining leather, suitable materials, and so on, you're bound to pick up ideas If you ask the staff nicely they might have items with minor damage or blemishes that would otherwise be thrown out, that you could recover decent pieces from Must it be fabric? Look for discarded & abandoned furniture, both leather & fabric, or ask your local upholsterers if they have any offcuts or scrap. Somewhere on my travels I bought some very thin leather, perhaps 0,8mm or less. It's not much use on its own, but I use that for linings, among other stuff. If anyone does give you material, make them a simple wallet, card holder or key fob as a thankyou.

I'd suggest that 0,8 mm thread is a bit too thick for 3,5 mm spacing chisels. Hence changing to 0,6 mm thread might help As you might expect, there are several YT Videos about saddle stitch; have a look at those by J H Leather.

You see this knife all over The Net, on Amazon, in cheap leatherwork kits, and so on. I bought one a few years ago for £6 I think, and I also think that if you Search you can still get them for less than £10 inc P&P I thought it was surprisingly well made for the money - the blade was stiff, in line with the handle, and didn't wobble. I improved it by - I didn't like the cheap tacky red paint on the handle, so I scraped it off and slightly reshaped & sanded it so it was more comfortable; the grain is actually quite attractive, at least it is on the one that I have I reduced the sharp corners of the cutting edge, which were quite pronounced, with a file & oil stone, so that it is more like the straight parallel sided blades that you see on most other Japanese Leather Knives The cutting edge had a small secondary bevel; I ground this out to produce a single longer bevel, about 6mm long, using progressively finer oil stones followed by a strop. This took a few sessions spread over a week, but now the edge is very sharp. I made a simple sheath or slip cover for it I have a half round knife, aka head knife, from George Barnsley, and another JLK that I made from an old plane blade, and other knives, but this cheap one is very handy, and I use it on a lot of my work. They are cheap enough to try just out of curiosity, as long as you're willing to work on sharpening the edge - you might get to like it.

OK, one more comment -- I once asked a cobbler 'just how sharp does an awl need to be?' He replied - 'aahhhh....so they go about halfway through your finger before you notice.' Have fun! Zuludog.

Looks like you have all the kit you need for sharpening; and yes, it will all be quiet, portable, and won't need electricity ..... if anything, power tools will damage the small blades used in leatherwork There are loads of YT Videos on sharpening, for general stuff like knives, chisels, plane blades, and also leatherwork tools such as edge bevelers, awls, and skiving knives Make some sheaths or slip covers for your tools; they will protect your fingers from getting cut, and protect the cutting edge from damage ....... stick an awl into a wine bottle cork

You have summed up leatherwork very well -- and you will find life easier and less frustrating if you realise and understand that leatherwork is not precision engineering, it is a craft that uses natural materials You've seen from the replies to your various questions , and from YT Videos on beginners tools, and others, that leatherwork and the choice of tools varies a lot with personal preference, finance, and experience Really, the only way you're going to find out what works for you is to actually do something - get a bag of offcuts or a half veg tan shoulder or belly ... the Wuta edgers, an Osborne #43 awl, some 4mm diamond stitching chisels, needles & thread as described, and make a few simple items like key fobs, card holders, slip covers & cases for your knives & chisels, ..... and make some mistakes as well, that's how we've all learned Once you've got some experience with basic stuff then you can build up to more complicated and advanced items like shoes

@Aventurine --- it is a paradox (is that the right word?) of leatherwork, and presumably most crafts, that you need experience to make the best choice of tools when you're a beginner I notice that you seem to want to buy most of your tools from Amazon - why? Yes, there will be good makes on there, but there are also be some that aren't very good So why not go to a proper leather craft supplier? Experienced leatherworkers might argue the pros & cons of various items, but in general most of the stuff they sell will be OK I know of Tandy, Weaver Leather Supply, and Rocky Mountain Leather Supply in the USA, and I'm sure people in the USA can suggest others - why not shop at them? If nothing else you could phone or email them for advice.

OH NO! -- this looks like the 4-in-1 awl that is infamous throughout the leather craft world for being expensive and not very good (that's the polite version!) ..... besides which, in general, tools with interchangeable parts are fiddly, and you'll be constantly swapping & playing about with the blades It is better and cheaper to buy a scratch/round awl and a fixed blade saddlers/diamond awl Traditionally you bought a separate blade and haft then fitted them together yourself, but this is fiddly, try to find something already made up -- I'm sure people in the USA will suggest suppliers and models/types of awls Generally go for a thin blade, <2mm but as I think you might be using thicker leather you could go up to 2,5mm but others will advise, or ask the supplier A diamond awl needs to be super sharp but it does not have a fine needle point, it is more like a small rounded chisel tip, you'll see the idea from videos Whatever you get you'll need to sharpen a new blade, there are YT Videos. FWIW I use mostly 0,6mm thread and Osborne # 42 or 43 awl blade (can't remember which) that I mounted myself in a typically pear shaped haft

You can sharpen the tiny blade in a stitch groover by pulling through a length of preferably unwaxed linen thread coated with stropping compound, and sharpen from the outside like any other blade by pulling on a strop, but on a smaller scale. there are YT Videos about this, including by JH Leather But just to confuse things I started with a groover, but now I have changed to marking my stitch line with dividers, as recommended by Nigel Armitage. There are YT Videos about this; watch some of JH Leather's videos to see how it's done ..... or Search YT for 'leatherwork and wing dividers'.

Here is my general guide to needles & thread, there are also YT Videos - For thinner leather such as wallets use 0,45mm diameter thread and John James Saddlers Harness Needles item code L3912 size 004 For most leather goods use 0,6mm dia thread and John James Saddlers Harness Needles item code L3912 size 002 - note! make sure they are size 002 and not 2/0 For thicker leather such as axe covers or if you want a rugged look, use 0,8 to 1,0mm dia thread and Tandy Stitching Needles 10 pack SKU 1195 -00 Briefly, synthetic is stronger than linen and won't rot, but some people prefer linen as it's natural and they like the way it feels/handles Most people try a few types & makes before they settle on something, so look out for sales & short lengths You can get John James needles in the USA from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply, I think, and possibly other suppliers as JJ are a well known make internationally; and Tandy are American anyway But for needles, thread, and any other questions about leather & tools - Don't be afraid of the suppliers! After all they know their business and it it is in their interest to help you, so ask away! Oh, just a comment - if you are going to use thicker thread and needles, you might need to temporarily enlarge the stitching holes with a round/scratch awl, they're cheap enough. The holes made by chisels & diamond/saddlers awl blades are actually slits, they don't remove any material and will close up around the thread after stitching. You might also need to pull through the needles with pliers, especially when back stitching - pad/wrap the jaws with tape so you don't scratch the needles.

As you do leatherwork you'll learn for yourself what combination of size/weight/type of leather & tool & thread you'll need, and it will come naturally -- it's called 'gaining experience'. But you already have an advantage over me - I don't do carving/stamping/moulding/tooling, and I've never used buckskin or rawhide Search YT for Harry Rogers. He has videos on general leatherwork, including beginners, and also a series on making handmade shoes

I, and I think most people, use the usual self healing cutting mat. However, I notice that in her earlier videos JH Leather worked on a plain (and marked) wooden surface until she changed it for a cutting mat, presumably because she wanted to smarten up the videos For use under stitching chisels I used a plastic kitchen chopping board, then just an old magazine, and change it when it becomes worn, it works well enough

There are a few Japanese/Chinese/Korean manufacturers of leatherworking tools that are good quality and reasonably priced, including Seiwa; Craft Sha; Oka; Kyoshin Elle; and Wuta ..... so yes, the set you have shown will do the job, probably with a bit of sanding & burnishing to obtain a smooth rounded edge. You could also get a rounded edge by using grooved edgers, but the Wuta set will do the job and are cheap enough, though you will almost certainly have to sharpen them as shown in my earlier reply Most leatherworking tools only come with a basic finish, to keep the price down to a reasonable level; it is only the expensive custom made tools that you can use straight out of the box Read FREDK's post carefully, he mentions a carrot SLICKER, not SLICER --- edge burnishers or slickers are usually of two designs; one is made from turned wood, has a few grooves, and is tapered; it is called the carrot type for obvious reasons to distinguish it from the other main type, which is flat and sometimes called the slipper type. See here, forget the small disc, that is intended to be used on a rotary tool such as a Dremel https://www.amazon.co.uk/Leather-Slicker-Multi-Size-Burnisher-Handworking/dp/B07H2HNZWN/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?crid=OO4SJTSY7E3H&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0Kh9hbdzio5Td_BvaeF2Ft8zz9B1-KSBStQjdvbwQreaoIkL1f9CjcgnS0eE-t8-qZDtVdV6pdbpdnpire-nFe69ZiQQf7Sp3Qcv9BabGvlm_qfro5SZtBJIU8BhwhIFlz9CYwdQbELv7NHvYk_v0exCwvV-ZSTNvgEnmms-X0h9TMrHutFjauZo7AYMQjlJH-34Bkg61iLByisJTqLrOiMHhR2UCVe3rmnEAuF6jxH-3FCsHAt-qPm1Jg55lRibO1_ejKeCRasPQU_h8ZjufjfWTDhYttCt9HlvzuaDA8c.EuKn1Sq3bKaraeDoGRNBp1S-iAId8USKdcJwZClAmjs&dib_tag=se&keywords=leather%2Bedge%2Bburnishers&qid=1720803082&sprefix=%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-11-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1 Hmmm .... please excuse this question, but I have to ask -- just how much experience do you have in leatherwork? .... as some of your questions here and in other Posts are quite basic I suggest you Search YouTube for categories such as beginners leather tools - each video will be slightly different, reflecting the choices of the individual worker, but watch a few and you'll get the general idea. There are also videos on techniques such as edge beveling & finishing, saddle stitch, skiving, sharpening, and so on. Watch videos on making the items you fancy, and also simple items such as key fobs & card holders, and you'll see what other people use and how they do things. (and make some yourself!) You'll quickly realise that most leatherwork uses the same sort of methods & tools whatever you're making, so watch as many as you have the stamina for and you'll pick up instant experience You need to make a few items, starting simply then building up, to get a feel for handling leather, cutting, stitching, edge finishing, and all the rest of it These channels are good, but there are many others - JH Leather; Corter Leather; Nigel Armitage; Leodis Leather Oh, and have fun!

As mentioned by billybop, and no doubt others to come - Sometimes the manufacturers list the size of tiny blade inside an edge beveler, either in mm or fractions of an inch, but to make things easier they give them a size number ..... so far, so good The problem is that there is no common standard, each maker has their own system or standards ...... so, for example, a size 3 might be bigger or smaller than a size 3 from other makers. The only way to obtain a consistent grading or progression in sizes is to buy all of the same type of tool However, the general rule is that you use a smaller number size on thinner leather. Some makers, but not many, give suggestions for which number to use on which thickness, but you have to search their Websites Then there's the preference of each leather worker - some might like to remove a small amount of leather, some a lot, and so they will use different bevelers on the same piece of leather ..... and then you have the choice of a grooved or flat beveler Fun, isn't it?! Search YT for Choosing the size of leather edge bevelers, there are a few videos, though I haven't watched any My guess is that you are a beginner. All I can suggest is that you buy one or two of the smaller sizes of the simple, basic, cheap beveler for about $10 to $15 that you often see, and take it from there ..... watch videos on sharpening & using ..... and videos on things you'd like to make, so you'll see what sort of bevelers they use on what thickness of leather, they might even list them. You get a better idea of the size needed if the beveler is very sharp - the key to good leatherwork is to have razor sharp tools. Search YT for appropriate videos -- this is a good one

Firstly, Welcome to the fun! Secondly, I don't do carving/tooling/stamping Generally speaking, the leather craft kits from Amazon aren't very good, and generally again, you'd be better off putting your money towards something better ----- on the other hand, if the price is very low you'll get a good selection for little money, so it might be worth a go just to try it and get started. And from the look of those kits some of the tools are reasonable enough, so even if you keep some and dump others the overall cost would still be reasonable. However, paradoxically, if that's the right word, you need some experience to decide ..... like I said, welcome to the fun I suggest you Search YouTube for 'beginners leather tools' and similar categories, there are several videos. Each one is similar but slightly different, reflecting the preference of the individual leather worker but watch a few and you'll get the general idea. Also watch YT videos on making the items you fancy, such as wallets, belts, knife sheaths, pouches, and you'll see what other people use and how they do things There are also videos on techniques such as saddle stitch, edge finishing, sharpening edge bevellers, and so on Get a shopping list together and build up your tool kit as you need it I only know a few suppliers in the USA - Weaver, Tandy, and Rocky Mountain Leather Supply, but I'm sure other people will add their suggestions.

I have offered (or rather I have been persuaded !) to start introduction to leatherwork sessions at a local community centre. I don't know what sort of interest there will be, but I suspect only a few people I'd thought of starting with an outline of tools & techniques, followed by a couple of simple projects; a key ring & a card holder; spread over several sessions, depending on how quickly people pick it up. Any comments and advice would be appreciated

Foam will hold and absorb some of the paint but it is not so soft that it will spread and be difficult to control Search Amazon, where they sell foam swabs intended for cleaning computer keyboards. You could use a cotton bud, but they do spread a bit

I have seen Nigel Armitage use a pencil to apply edge paint on some of his videos; if it's good enough for Nigel ......

Don't let it get on the surface in the first place! Apply it carefully with a small foam swab or the tip of a pencil and wipe it off immediately if it spreads. Don't load them with too much and take your time.

The key to good leatherwork is to have razor sharp tools, Once you get a sharp edge keeping it like that is relatively easy - little and often is the rule, and most of the time just a strop or occasionally very fine abrasive paper or a stone is all you need. For my bevellers I use a strop with green chromium dioxide compound and paper varying from 1200 to 5,000 grit There are several videos on sharpening edge bevellers, with variations on a theme, but watch a few and you'll get the idea. This is a good and simple one

Yes, that's another thing I did, getting the correct angle of attack aka the angle of incidence, as they say in the aircraft industry Get something like 2 or 3 mm veg tan leather, cut a straight edge then start bevelling --- at first lay the beveller down so it's quite flat and won't cut at all; then repeat again & again, raising the handle each time to make a steeper & steeper angle until it jams & judders, and can't be pushed any more Somewhere in between you'll find the best angle. Cut back the leather 5 or 10mm to obtain a fresh cut edge as required It is noticeable that each of the type of bevellers I used need a different angle