swinewerx

You could also try using the grey duct tape just put about a one inch wide strip around the end of each tool used and leave a little above the top of tool and kinda push down on it to give that fluffy shock type of hitting section of tool. Since my accident I have very bad insomnia so I try to not wake the wife when I am just having a ball!!!! not being able to sleep some nights. This type of tape methiod reduces the noise down to about half, but makes your hits a bit lighter so really watch how your tooling is working. The best about my circumstance is, she also wears ear plugs as a habit so I never actually wake her , which is just luck in my case

Looking upset is cool, What I would do is get the background all textured as a fine unit no lines and if all else fails get it real wet on the tooling side flip over and untool what you can if you can and retool it. It can be done, looks to me as if you are doing a great job, keep in mind, I taught myself how to do this type of stuff and learned the very hard way, which most would drop out I chose the insanity rule, keep trying to get the result needed but kept getting the same results, eventually getting it and getting floored in the end with self satisfaction, which is very valuable to me. basically, never give up keep trudging

I don't know if this will help or not , I got all the finer tools at tandy for this type of project, they kind a look like dental tools and they work very well you just have to be careful and light on the pressure. The tandy stuff that looks like dental tools are red handled in the middle rubeer of course and the ends are pointed on one end and either a spoon or scoop or angled push. my tandy only has three and I had to get them all which is good, I use them quite a bit especially for very small details that are very detailed only noticeable when looked at very closely. So really it is a hidden feature for me to use for the general public.

That looks real great!! I only have an extra room in our new /old house we bought in summer 08 this place is a four bedroom home so I got one of the extras. Soon I will finally make this leather room very detailed, I really like your work bench with all the holders very nice and neat

I am guilty of using the four prong chisel along with a single, I do use my awl that has the thread in it as well, it is cool and not difficult to user I have different sized prong chisels for different apps. I also use a wheel/s for different spacing of the stitches. I will also actually poke the holes with an awl that6 does not have the thread in it and sew away by hand and feeling. Until I get a variable speed motor to replace the clutch motor, I will not use my tacsew. I slowed it down half way, but clutching and braking is achieveable, but takes a few 10 minutes

Check this bit of words, I can never get anyone who goes through me for seats and bags to go like this, Maybe cuz it is for my wife's chop and it is a copy of a tattoo which I call a hello kittie skull so the bow had to be added as an extra flavor. Every bit of leather work and other things are all chick related just for her. There are some photos not taken yet of the slant wide saddle bag which matches the seat and the electrix leather cover that also matches the seat. The electrix box is actually an L shaped section of steel and the leather is an opposite to cover up the components and make it girlie. All I really need to do is install an automatic perfume sprayer to make it very girlie and fresh

If you need a thicker barrel take one of the slim ones and wrap it in the leather thickness of your choice, and possibly add a little design to it as you want. just make sure to stitch it smooth for your steering quality and make it very tight

If you feel confident enough, scour the area that needs leather items and become a subcontractor. It is very nice to have this type of side kick. I now have on real subcontract job I do for a lady's saddle bag making business. At first I had to tool of course,then dye and seal it. Now, I just tool it as needed with her leatherand it is predyed without any sealer on the front flaps. It tools rather well , actually better than plain veg tanned cow skins. Not too long ago there were chopper/motoscooter shops everywhere, I had some cool side jobs then, only the saddle bag place remains and I am pretty sure it will, very top notch stuff there. I am pretty sure that there are country western stores/feed stores that you could try to sell items there too. It never hurts to try, besides if you get shot down by the stores, it won't make your birthday/christmas/holidays/or whatever you like go away. all will be well

I still only use veg tanned, I really love extreme tooled items, I will always make a new seat from scratch (it itches) mold the panto the frame rails, do the foam which I discovered recently a smoother foam way. Then, I mold the leather all the way to have no seams,wrinkles, and stitches, basically a one piece leather seat which wraps completely all over and is pop rivetedon the under side of the seat pan. Veg tanned cow and swine varieties mold very well when wet. The only thing about a one piece seat is, the molding can take several to a larger number of hours to mold, then the tooling begins. Even though I tool after the first mold, afterward it goes right back to the molding I first did, then, the dye begins and ends with satin sheen. I prefer to use four to five oz leather , even though, four to five is what most seat dudes use for the sides of thier seats. I did not get taught this, I had to learn by myselfand it was a rocky road with a rigid bike and no seat at all. I really do have a passion for all the things I make on my own without having to eat the pavement as a result of my welding habits. I never have used chrome tanned stuff for a seat, I know it is supposed to retain moisture, I don't want to be musty as well as a filthy swine that werx. Good luck

What I have done in the recent as well as the current, like the bag as my avatar, It was first made for my longest chop. It carried a heck of a lot more tools, which were very needed. When the chop got steady I made a slant solo. So, this big one which is made from 15 oz. thick stuff, had to be mounted on my next chop an actual amen hardtail so I took a drill after marking needing holes, and just drilled through and pulled where needed. Since I am my own leather worker, it is ok for me to damage items I make. I know I can always make a' new!!!!I still won't condition or clean all of our leather things, if our butts don't wipe it off then, so be it. Only seats get this attention, the bags get pretty grubby with the way I lube the chains and with what I lube with

Thanx guys, I don't get that type of response,, this is nice to read. But, it won't ever go to my head

I will try to find a good photo, not so BIG..http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v239/swinewerx/?albumview=grid&fullsize=DSC00009-3.jpg http://smg.photobuck...ze=DSC00008.jpg http://smg.photobuck...=DSC00003-5.jpg http://smg.photobuck...ze=DSC00019.jpg http://smg.photobuck...=DSC00002-4.jpg if you see the chick , that is my wife and she is not naked at all in all the photos, sorry if this offends I don't know how to do this otherwise, sorry http://smg.photobuck...ze=DSC00008.jpg

Just one more of my seat from the L.S. short chop, just to show i really have a passion for seamlessnon stitched seats that have extreme molding done to them, which takes a long time to get to mold completely. Although, this seat is semi early for molding, not only did I use the defective leather for it, but it has mild wrinkles along the back side of the arrow points of the seat {near the frame railslower spot} now a days this does not happen, this one took a long time to mold, but I taught myself how and it reminds me of possibly rolling and kneeding pizza/bread dough, for many hours

from a while back not current though, I have not taken photos in a long time. 043.bmp046.bmp045.bmp 043.bmp 046.bmp 045.bmp

I for one will never turn away from advice, whether good or bad, I take it both ways, don't do that, or do that and try it and get it! one thing though, I still have an ocean of useless knowledge!

You can get real creative and use the thickest you can get, when you make the outside cover, make sure it is way too thick, then, when you center it skive some of the inner outside cover where it will fold. this will actually make ther wallet fold easier and not seam so thick! but it will be. also you will always be happy if a truck,bus,bullet is in your line of direction, this wallet will save your life!!! guaranteed

This is a very serious addiction, I even had to make the forks, but not the trees. This is how I taught myself how to weld, but this front end did not start on this yammie. It stillhas it's neck from tge bike it came from. ImaginE this, I am riding a yamaha chop but it has the neck of a cm400t Honda too small of an engine type of bike! This is my favorite chop, although the frames on both extreme long chops have encountered tiny fractures my five footer solid stainless forks never have. Some day soon when I get done, if i get done, I will make an even longer girder, at least a seven footer just so people will think and even ask if it is cuz I don't have enuf of the male extremeties, I always say that I am lacking just that . They usually drift away fast, and I don't have to deal with them, which is very nice. 99.99% of people don't like me or my thingsof personal value . So, really, this is like 99.99% public repelent.

Being that I will always make my own from scratch for stiffening purposes I have made metal frames very simple and does not take that much space. I don't like that though, there is another way to do this as well, which I have not tried yet. I was told by the onwer of the Tandy in Reno that when you are ready to stiffen the leather to dunk it in ammonia and make it dry in the shape you want it to stay at. The only reason I have not done this is, I usualyy tool our personal items extremeand dnking an item in liquid would/could make all the tooling in that area flatten out,. So be careful if you do this, possibly before tooling you could try this on some scrap leather and see how it tools after being wetted on the flesh side, to see if it can be done and not to stiff

Gotta add some more and ,,,hey! keep in mind none of my things are ever even close to being perfect, but for me and mine it ' s alright! One photo at a time apparently

This is early work but from scratch by methe fender as well, it took quite a few times to get it to this color denatured alcohol would not strip it though, so I went with mek and acetone which opened it up. I started the final color with used synthetic motor oil. It is better for your engines and coloring things also! then went with medium and dark brown, topped off with satin sheen. It has held this way for about two years now. Beleive it or not, it used to be buckskin dye at first, but yeller aint it for this swine!!

Yes, but I gotta do that on the home compu

Here as well I dyed cobra white to a dark brown, it took a few times to finally set and it really looks great as a cluster of leather shingles with brown cobra skin rivited to the leather shingles and the shingles riveted to the back fender of my favorite chop of all

Guys, I love exotic skins but in calif. it is illegal to buy, there is all kinds of alternatives, over the internet= bad choice; you don't get to choose which one you REALLY like. From the net they are usually very thinlike it is for clothing. Reno, nev has a tandy there, when I go there I usually buy all that I can or he lets me buy. Reno's tandy has very good quality skins . The other alternative is spring time fresh road kill that is not to mangelated or too smelly. I will not kill an animal just for it's skin, unless we are camping and need to eat that critter then it is ok. even though The tree huggers have made it difficult to aquire snake skins that don't even live here naturally, there are tanning solutions for snake skins at tandy in calif. also. First you skin it then salt the hell out of it for three days alkaline dehydrate, Then wash the skin removing all hanging chunks, the gently scrape the scales off. After that, apply the tanning solution to both sides of skin and either layout with the help of small finish nails or tacks or, the easiest yet wrap around a broom handle or post to the skin's size and let dry for about three more days. When done take off of the dry ing area and massage it to the supple feel you want and you can even stretch it a little, being that is what they do in indonesia. The bad about indonesia is that they stretch too much only cuz they want a few more cents. There is one last alt. Where I am a subcontractor , they will allow me to get what ever I want through them, the bad is they still pick it out no matter what you request or even offer to pay way too much. They want the extra money for nothing

If you have certain cutting tools,, say for air tools, and the type that you can change the cutting tool from. It is basically a bolt with a nut and threads and a shaft to be put in your drill or pneumatic tool. So, if you do this you can then get different sizes or find different sizes of what you may need. I always see a possibility with things that would normally be considered clutter/junk/trash. this does not mean I collect trash/clutter/junk , unless it is of jap crap chop material

I just got a slab, it is very heavy, black 24"width+18"height+3"thick it even has a serial number. I am puzzled as to where it came from, after all, it was donated to me by an unknown person who just dropped it off. It sure beats the tandy marble/granite slab. I just got to build my dream wotk bench/table that will make me even pass out.....sooon