Ian
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Posts posted by Ian
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Black Canyon Leather
Many years ago I lived in Phoenix close to the Black Canyon Highway. I thought, back then it would be a cool name for a business, so 18 years later, that's what I picked. Though, someone has already parked blackcanyonleather.com, so I guess someone else thought it was a good name too.
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You can use either, both, or Naptha (Lighter fluid). Doesn't make any difference.Wear gloves. They can all cause liver and kidney damage by through-skin absorption.
Personally I prefer my liver-damaging alcohol applied internally......,
Cheers,
Karl
I don't drink, but use a lot of alcohol, and unless it's in dye, I never think about wearing gloves. Recently I became pretty woozy after working with alcohol and never put 2 & 2 together until someone told me that rubbing alcohol applied topically can be detected in the liver within 15 minutes.
Then there was that recent story about the guy who died of an alcohol overdose when he was taking alcohol internally in another fashion, but I'll refrain from a full description of THAT!
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Dave, I use denatured
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John, I have an Aero, not because it's my first choice, but because it's the machine I got. I've used an Adler, and if I could afford to, I'd get one to replace the Aero. Can't say there's anything wrong with the Aerostitch at all, and have used it for tons of different things. I just don't like the compressor noise, even though I have it in the attic with the hose running into the shop. I like the adjustment that allows you to sew a a snails pace if you want - makes it easy to place your stitches very easily.
On the breaking needle issue. I used to have that problem until I learned not to try and feed the work and let the needle do it. I still break the occasional needle, but it's always when I'm sewing something really heavy that requires both hands to support the work - then an accidental twist will snap the needle with a horrendous noise. It's a practice issue.
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Almost too bad you can't leave it that way, without dye or finish - it looks so pristine.
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I'm beginning to agree that politics is not the thing to be talking about on a leather forum. Either point of view can be offensive to others, doesn't matter which side you're on.Exactly. The definition of 'hate speech' seems to be any opinion other than our own - nevermind that those using the 'hate speech' mantra are often the most judgemental, vitiolic, and (dare I say) hateful individuals themselves.
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Johanna, another thing to consider is; I you think you are going to have to censor really outragous posts, do you really want to put yourself in that position and all the certain accusations of bias that that will bring?
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Wolle, the two-color Mexican braid is described in Bruce Grant's book 'Leather Braiding' I'm sure it's available on Amazon.
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That's great Tom. He could do a whole article on your dyeing techniques alone. Bravo!
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Tina, just to add to your post. Most programs, including Publisher (use the Word Art function) will let you do your font with an outline only. It makes it a lot easier to trace.
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I don't think so. Not that I'm not the first to dive into off-topic posts and I can talk politics and controversy until the cows come home. I just think there are enough other outlets to divide us (unfortunately). As much as we'd like to think we accept others rights to their opinions, I think we all tend to polarize towards people sharing our opinions - often to the exclusion of those who don't.
I like LW the way it is (and if you think outherwise, I might hate you
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Dave, that's as nice as it gets. Your rope border is so even I thought it was a stamp at first. Excellent!
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While not a leather supply per-se, this guy does have a wide variety of upholstery supplies including upholstery leather.
Here's the story - I took on the job of re-upholstering a 12 seater boat (don't ask me why I did it). Anyway, I found this supplier online to order the vinyl, piping etc and placed my order online. Within minutes, my phone rang and it was Gary, the owner. He had noticed that the piping I had ordered was a different shade of white than the vinyl and advised me on the proper shade. Now, he could have missed the mistake and I'd have to go through the hassle of re-ordering or sent an email, which would have delayed the process further. But, he went the extra mile of giving me a call. I love good customer service, don't you?
So, that's my experience. I hope if you're looking for upholstery supplies you'll give him a shot. I will.
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Excellent tutorial and finished product. Everything was interesting and clear, but I especially liked your method for doing the circular lettering. Thanks for posting this.
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Super job - very nice and clean looking.
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Thanks Ian. Where can you get that plastic that you used? I promise that's the last question! I appreciate your time.Chris
You can find suppliers online - a search for ABS should do the trick. I have a local plastics supplier that I buy from
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Chris, those are just the regular suction cups
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I am planning to make a photo album as a gift for my niece's wedding. I'd like to do an album where the pages are held in with screw posts. My question is; how do i best make the hinge between the rigid strip that hold the screws (if you know what I mean) and the cover itself? Or, could you suggest a book that would have the instructions on how to do this.
Thanks much
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Here's a post I made about making a p-pad. I do one seam on the front and one on the back
http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...p;hl=quicky+pad
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Truly the Lord has blessed me with the ability to earn a living doing something I truly love. RonnyGiving credit where credit is due - Very nice.
I heard a quotation this week that really struck home. Actually it's from the Koran. To paraphrase; "Never be arrogant of your own success. All success belongs to God"
Another thing that stuck out is when I visited Hancock Shaker Village (a religious enclave, now a museum). When asked how he achieved such flawless results in making his furniture, the Shaker craftsman replied "Everything I do, I do as though I am presenting it to God as thanks for the gifts he's given me"
I always fall short of that goal, but never quit trying to achieve the results that would be worthy of what I have been given. I hope I can get close to that goal in the time I have left here.
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So what's the trick to molding it so nicely? Do you vacuum bag it? Tell me, PLEASE! I'm always fighting it. Is there a tutorial on here somewhere? MattMatt, I do seats differntly than some guys.
If you take apart a stock seat, you'll see the pattern is not flat. I don't know how other seat makers make a flat panel fit a deep seat. Even with hours of wetting and stretching, I can't do it without wrinkles. So, I make the pattern as though I was going to do the cover in upholstery leather - just like a pattern for a stock seat. I do the top panel and mold it to the top, then attach the side panels, wet just the sides then stretch the sides around the bottom edges. I dye everything before I assemble. I swear, doing it this way, I can cover a bowling ball without a wrinkle.
Here's a picture I posted a few days ago of the top carved and shaped
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Wasn't the point of using it just to stick the thing together until it could be stitched?Please enlighten me someone if I missed it all together.
pete
True, but it is more than that. You need your edges to stay together even after they're stiched so that when they're burnished and painted they appear as a single edge. Also, two side cements such as contact and Barge adhere instantly, so there's no drying time. Personally, I liked the old Barge (before they changed the formula) the best because of the longer working time. Since they changed it, I use regular hardware store contact cement.
If I'm just holding stuff together for a quick repair, while I stitch it, I sometimes even use double sided tape.
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You can be proud, grab a beer and relax tonite!! Tomorrow...new seats, I think handstitching may be in demand when this one hits the streets;-) Sharpen your awl!!
Tom
Tom, thanks for the good words. I'd like to take credit for handstitching, but I did that on the machine. Actually, I haven't done anything but minor handstitching since my harness making days - barely even have callouses on my hands anymore.
Hardware questions
in Hardware and Accessories
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Weaver has most hardware, or a lot anyway in stainless. Chrome is usually plated over brass, so it's the same strength. For dog collars, brass has more than adquate strength (it's used on o lot of harness - the Bud team's harness is chrome over brass). Tandy's hardware is mostly nickle or brass plated steel - the least favorable option, since the steel rusts and nickel dulls. I think solid brass has the classiest look of all, but there is the polishing issue if you want to keep it bright.
Conchos.com has a good selection, but for some of the most unusual Celtic and medieval looking conchos, Hide House (their San Dimas location) has conchos I've never seen anywhere else.