Angie

Draftsight is a free CAD drawing program. It produces DWT files that can be sent to laser cutting entities for having pieces cut out professionally or you can print them on your home printer or on a professional plotter. The DWT files can also be converted to PDF for printing on a home printer. I like it, it is easy to learn and comes with lots of free "getting started" and other tutorials.

Hello, I am about to finish a small hip bag and just need to close the last two seams to assemble the bag. I wonder if there is a trick to mark the stitching line on the flesh side as using dividers doesn't work. Marking with a pen works of course, but is quite laborious.

Hi again, I took some pics of how to fold the paper model which helped me also to understand the measurements needed to get the desired final dimension. It starts with nothing more than a rectangle Then you fold it in half and "sew". If it were the leather model you´d start sewing the zipper at first and THEN this side. Here you can see what it looks like after "sewing" the side. Now make the sewing flat so that the triangle is formed. Tuck it in to meet the bottom line and sew For this explanation I did only one side. Now, I guess, you already got the trick. The folded over zipper tips will form automatically. I made the paper model several time to figure out where and when in the process I have to attach those little straps and/or additional side pockets inside or outside the bag. I made more pictures, so if something is not clear please don´t hesitate to ask me to upload more detail.

I tried to make the paper model in leather and here is the outcome. Not finished yet. It looks more or less like the one on your first picture I think. Sorry for the different threads and the imperfection, I am still a beginner. I like the little bag actually and sure will make some more in different sizes.

I searched again and found this tutorial. Maybe it could be of help for your project. I really like that kind of box-bag and will sure build one myself, too. In the tutorial she makes the one with the zipper going all the way to the bottom. http://coconutrobot.com/2014/06/the-perfect-fathers-day-gift/ AND I spent this morning doing some papercraft in order to find out the way the other model (folded over zipper tips) is done. It seems to be very easy. Here are some pictures: It is actually folded like the tetrapak. I don´t know if its called tetrapak in the US. Tetrapak is the recicable milk bin.

Hi, google "LZ patterns" and you will find a pattern for your desired type of bag and many other patterns for leather items. I purchased one already and it works. The patterns are good quality and they send the PDF patterns printable for a normal printer. They cost around 4 to 10 dollars. I think it is a good source for basic patterns.

Yes, these are really good ideas! I don´t know why I didn´t remember those places, living here close to the shore and having camping resorts everywhere around.... Soon I will have a look into a sailing shop at one of our countless yacht harbours. Thank you again, hopefully my bag/backpack/sack or whatever it will turn out to be, is finished soon, so I can post pictures

I´ll check again. Maybe the local supplier of buckles and other shoe and bag details also sells eyelets.... Thank you anyways

I am in Spain The largest eyelets I can get are too small.

Sorry, it wouldn´t attach the file

Hello over there, my newest project is a bucket style backpack/handbag. I still couldn´t make up my mind wether it is going to be a backpack or a handbag, or even a combination..... Now I am stuck with a few obstacles. Originally the idea is to pass a leather string around the upper part of the bag which goes through some metal eyelets. But to set metal eyelets of a large diameter I have to get all the necessary hardware and so on..... Therefor I was thinking about an alternative for metal eyelets. Like button holes or alike? Does anybody know how to do button holes in leather? Saludos

Thank you so much for this great tutorial. I can´t wait to start my first try with shoes. Spring has just begun and here in Spain flip-flops are, due to our warm climate, the most important footwear, called "chanclas" Angie

Hi, I found this interesting web site. It is not especially for leather items but some of the patterns and/or ideas work as well for leather. The site and descriptions are in german but the instruccions are very detailed. http://www.funfabric.com/kast.php?cont=project I find this idea of making a bag very creative and it is easy to be done with leather. I imagine it could be super nice for children leatherworkers. http://www.funfabric.com/kast.php?cont=project&kap=1&let=Projekte&art=063 Saludos

Hi again, this morning I studied the patterns and the description of the pieces and first of all there are a lot of typing mistakes. The little worm "gusanillo" is a kind of stiching or embroidery. The one that is a very tight zig zag, but spaniards use to use the same word for different things. "Correilla" means zip tie or little strap. "Cuarson" is a material that is made of leather shavings to form sort of a card board. It is used to strengthen parts of a leather bag. (Please ask if you don't understand my explanation ) "Culote" I can't identify its meaning for bag making. It could be "bottom" or "end". "Culo" means buttocks and "culote" is a big one. "Boilillo" is actually "bolillo" which is lacing or even bobbin lacemaking. "Viledones" means that the pieces should be cut out of "viledon" (trade mark) which is this non woven white or black material (vilene?) that can have a sticky surface to be ironed on a piece of textil or leather. But it comes also without sticky surface and is used to strengthen pieces. The other similar words Esteban uses are simply typing errors. "Tupis" are cristal stones like swarovsky cristal and similar. "Texfel" is a trade mark for felt. "Texon" is a trade mark for shoe soles. I suppose he uses that material for strengthening purposes of different pieces. Those "yet" "ads" and "jet" must be some kind of abbreviations of something which I can't find out. They are not spanish words. OK, hopefully this can be helpful a little bit. Please don't hesitat to ask for more detailed explanation, as this translation was not easy because I lack also the correct words in english

Good morning, this is funny, yesterday I stumbled upon those spanish patterns on the website of this spanish guy. I had difficulties converting the dxf files, but now I find them here at leatherworker net, haha. If I can help you with any spanish translation just let me know. I live in Spain. Thank you for sharing the patterns, Saludos

Usually I don´t want to dye the piece completely. I try to get the colours of those sheridan carvings: natural leather tan with darker impressions. I`m after that slightly yellowish-golden brown with darker brown in the impressions that I like so much. I also had the idea to dye first and then apply the antique, but to me happens what you describe: It gets too dark all over. Some interesting result I got when I diluted the dye with Tan-Kote, but I am not convinced. There are some belts in the instructional videos from Tandy with George Hurst which I like very much, but apart from the stamping I can`t get the colour . The leather I use is veg tanned in France and imported to here (to Spain). Actually I don`t know if the cuality is good as I can´t compare to leathers from different tanners. Allover dying the leather gives very good results. For this purpose I use the spanish brand spirit dyes they use in the shoe-production. I can buy profesional dyes of ANY colour paying 6,50$ for 17fl oz. Very cheap compared to Fiebings or Tandy....... I go there with an example of the colour I want and they produce it just for me. BUT, they don´t know much about the antiquing technics and therefor I have to keep on searching the products I need at Tandys or Fiebings. By the way: My local Tandy Shop doesn`t offer the antique finish from Fiebings. Is the Eco Flo Gel Antique a good choice too? I bought Eco Flo Gel Antique saddle tan and it is just absolutely ugly. I can´t use it. It turns out a reddish orange artificial colour that is just inacceptable. Wuuaaaah.... Now I found out that I can put the stamped belts out to become sun tanned before applying the antique. One or two days in the sun will put a better ground colour to the leather. Before turning the leather out I apply spanish foot oil (pata de buey). I noticed the the leather sun-tanns even under a coat of Tan-Kote. Thank you for your answers, if I find my desired results, I will keep you informed.....

Thank you, DoubleC! It is actually a nice idea. I'll try to make some and see if spanish western riders like them.

Hi, what is the purpose of the leather piece at the bronc halter? Is there a purpose or is it just for decoration?

Hi there I started to make some leather belts. I got some nice veg tanned leather from the local leather store. For additional information I wanted to tell you that I am living in Spain, afortunately in an area with important production of shoes, bags and other leather products. Therefor I can buy any kind of leather and other "ingredients" such like dyes, rivets and other kind of metal details, buckles, and everything that is used for manufacturing shoes, bags etc. These were the advantages. The disadvantage is. I´m a beginner. I recently received dying and finishing products from spanish Tandy. Antique Finish (medium brown), Hi-Liter, Eco-Flo Gel Antique (saddle tan), Tan Cote and Super Sheen. Also I have 3 different spanish (or italian?) leather dyes. So now there is my basket weave stamped belt waiting for getting a colour, tan, or whatever, because its original "naked" colour is sort of "british tourist tan"..... First of all I tried the Tandy stuff. And was quite disappointed. On my pale leather the Hi-Liter and Gel-Antique and Antique Finish come out ugly What do I have to do to get I nicely tanned western style belt? Below I put some pics of my tanning experiments. I more or less like the result you see in the second picture. Yesterday I brushed Tan Cote on the scrap piece and this morning I used one of the spanish dyes. Looks interesting. Do I have to use different, darker colours from the Tandy-ones to get an overall darker look? Or do I have to put many coats of colour? I put some more close up pics just to make you all smile a little about my clumsy attempts The 3rd picture is Hi-Liter. The next one is one of the spanish dyes, not bad, but too reddish. The next one is Super Sheen and then the spanish dye, which doesn´t work as the the SS kind of melts away and it gets that "dirty" look. The last one ist the original leather colour with a finger tip of Tan Cote in the middle.

Thank you both for your helpful suggestions. Megabit, I really like your reins. Great work. The connectors are exactly what I'm looking for. Now I just have to find out how to produce something similar but without rawhide. CW: You're right, usually a horse should not step on the reins, the rider has to take care of that. But what when the rider is bucked off or the horse stumbles and falls or other unusual situations. I'm german. I use to try to prevent always the worst case situation:rolleyes2:

Hi, me again What is usually the best way to hide and secure the tips of the thongs when finishing a knot or braid? I am about to finish my first paracord braided headstall and I wonder how to get rid of the rest of the strings in the most elegant way. I'm not sure if I like the finishes product, but it is a first trial of how to put all together and a test if I like this type of headstall on my horses. Thank you for helping me