Scary Leatherworks
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Posts posted by Scary Leatherworks
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Thanks, I just ordered a 6x5 to see if I like it.
Scott
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I have a 6 prong, 2 prong, and 1 prong. One straights, I use the 6 prong. Around the corners, I use the 2 prong to mark the leather and space out the marks evenly, and the 1 prong to punch at the marks. You can use a 2 prong to go around the corners, but I am pretty anal about the orientation of the stitching hole, I like it just nice. So that's why I needed a 1 prong.
Can you tell me which size you use. I looked at them all but can't quite decide which one I want/need. They have the pricking irons and the awl/punch with so many different sizes; 4x1.5, 4x2,4x3, 6x3 etc...
Thanks
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Check out the pricking irons in www.goodsjapan.jp. They are essentially diamond awls in a row, made for used as a chisel. These are my stitching results.
I was looking at those pricking irons but wasn't sure if they were for "marking" the holes or for actually making them. I like the spacing on the Tandy 4 hole stitching punch but the tool is not the best. I got one one from SLC and it's nicer quality but has 5 prongs and I think it is too many holes per inch. Your stitching looks great!
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The lacing looks nice, color is nice also, I'll have to try some of the pro oil dye I like some of the colors. As Outcast said the 3oz may be too thin for the top, although I use it for the sides (skirt) when wet molding a seat. Unfortunately you sealed and weather-proofed the seat already because those 2 wrinkles could have been worked out. I find that really wetting it a lot helps then I stretch it/mold it as much as I can, which usually ends up with some wrinkles and folds similar to yours. I let is sit over night to dry then remove my temporary holding screws a few inches around the wrinkles re-wet the wrinkle and re-stretch. Usually a few times of this and all the wrinkles and creases are gone. I use short hex head screws #8 it think (takes a 1/4" socket) to temporarily attach my leather when wet forming. That makes it easier to work it all out. then when it's all dry I remove them one at a time a replace them with rivets.
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Yup I agree they are great and do have a nice selection of colors. I picked up some different colors in a leather shop out in NM. P.S. the box the dye comes in is made to be a bottle holder so it doesn't tip over when you are using it.
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Does anyone know if Ed Santoro is still making bags?
Here's his website http://www.waldenbags.com/
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i just stumbled across these and remembered this post. http://stores.ebay.com/Muffins-Place
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my brother-in-laws is made of suede. filled with very fine sand
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although I can't see both sides of the part in question I looks like a chicago screw found in almost every leather/hardware site
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.murse - you mentioned facebook but I don't know if you have tried twitter yet. my wife recently started using twitter more and it seems to be working better than facebook. She mentioned that she's been able to add more followers to twitter than friends to facebooks. Just throwing that out there...
I do have a twitter acct but not sure how it would work for this. does she just upload one pic at a time as a "tweet" since I don't see any album areas.
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So I should use a dye or stain in a lighter color than the hi-lite/antique. Making the process one of: applying dye, apply resolene, apply antique/hi-lite, apply top coat of resolene. That will probably do it? The resolene will not prevent the hi-lite from getting into the tooling cuts?
Yes, that's the usual process. This is always a problem in the beginning. I use Fiebings spirit based dye airbrushed on (especially for large projects) then a resist, such as resolene to seal the dye. let it dry! then apply the antique over the project. I do use eco-flo antique gel; tan or brown instead of fiebings paste, although I have the paste I just don't use it. if using the eco-flo antique apply it over the project. the resist keeps it from coloring the untooled areas altough it will darken it a bit. work the antique into the tooling and cuts with a piece of trimmed wool. then wipe off the excess trying to stay on the surface. I use paper towels folded into small squares. then just use a clean side each pass. sometimes very slightly damp to help lift off the excess antique (I keep a damp sponge beside me and just dab the paper towel on it) after this let it dry again and the next day apply your final sealant so the antique stays in the tooling. if you are wiping on your sealant you will lift some of the antique so a light coat first and after that dries the antique will be "locked" in and you can apply one more coat of sealant.
on a side note the hi-liter may work as an antique but I don't know. I used it at first also and it is supposed to be an all in one stain and antique. I also have used the eco-flo antique as a dye and antique over a whole project. It did work and gave me a nice color but it was probably the hardest dye job to get even.
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saddle soap, canvas and elbow grease will help with the flesh side, sort of burnishing it. I do that on some of my sketch pad covers and 3-ring binders that I don't line. sometimes I have to fine sand a few areas after to smooth it out the re-do. I does darken it a bit. here is an example
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I agree with Dwight. If you HAVE the funds then 2 different ones is the way to go. I had a small cheap airbrush only compressor that worked great (until it broke) now I am hooked up to my "pancake" compressor. (big enough to run nail guns) and I find it is hard to regulate the pressure low enough, much louder, and I have to drag it off at times to do other jobs. If you can only afford 1 and don't plan on airbrushing that much then, Yes it will work
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Nope! They don't have what I'm looking for. I know they are out there somewhere!!!
Do you have an example of what you are looking for?
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If you don't have a website you can always make a Facebook "page" it's not the same as a regular facebook account. It can be linked to your FB acct but it allows you to have a business name and place pictures. You can also put some info on there as well. It's not a website where people can order from but it is a place they can see your products and at least contact you. besides if you have a pay-pal account they can e-mail you money.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Scary-Leatherworks/108548299232217?sk=info here's mine
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http://www.hardwareelf.com/elf/fasteners.jsp a limited selection here. They are Ohio Travel bag for small customers -
I just got a side of "show harness" from http://www.wickett-craig.com/. It is made for outside applications. I cut off a small piece and held it under the faucet and the water ran right off. Their "work harness" has more oil it I believe. Call them and they can hook you up.
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I just started using the big yellow bar and I rub it staright on the edges while they are kinda dry and it seems to do a real good job for me.
AHHH maybe I need the bar instead of the paste! and I will try sealing the piece except the edges first. thanks all
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I use waxed linen. http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17ar.htm has a good selection and the sample card is useful because it has the colors and the different sized threads. I like a 6 or 7 cord. left/right twist doesn't matter for hand stitching that is a machine designation.
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Excellent! nice lacing and great color. And to your good health as well
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A customer asked me to make a briefcase/bag using W&C chestnut "show harness" leather. I had them skive it to my preferred thickness and refinish the flesh side. I received the leather and it is the nicest piece of leather I have yet to work with; nice rich color, beautiful pull-up etc... but the problem is being harness leather it has more oil in it that I can feel when working with it, although I have tried to get it to rub off on different things such as paper and cloth and I can't see that they get oily. So my question is, will the oily feel go away after awhile? If papers are stored in it for awhile will they eventually get oiled? They (W&C) also sent me some samples of there leather. Why does the English bridle appear glossy on the website but is a nice flat/satin color in reality? HMMMM maybe I should just call W&C with all these questions!
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Ok what's better the pro oil ones or the regular fiebings dye?
I don't use the oil dyes although some do and like them a lot. the "regular" dyes are the spirit dyes. I'm not sure where you are buying but I assume at Tandy since it's near you. The store may have a better selection of spirit dyes than Tandy website. I usually order from http://springfieldleather.com/ because they have a bigger color selection, although I seem to use the same ones over and over
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ditch the eco-flo dyes and upgrade to fiebings or angelus spirit based dyes. much better to work. then go to your local hardware store and get a bottle of denatured alcohol to thin and clean up.
Anyone ever ordered from Leather Unlimited?
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Not to hi-jack this thread but I recently made my first order with them for a piece of show harness for a bag I'm making. It was such an excellent piece of leather I hated to cut it.