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Posts posted by Scary Leatherworks
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A while ago I bought these rivets on eBay, but I can't find it in my purchased items or at any of my saved sellers..
Have any of you seen these rivets and know any eBay seller (or anyone else) that sells these? I think they are 9mm.
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I need ideas on how to smoothe out the back side of a belt. Thank you.
I saddle soap mine to smooth it out. Just do it after you've sealed the front.
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http://www.ofrei.com/page281.html
Hopefully the link works. :-)
Ahhhh thanks
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Am I missing something? The clasps seem to run$4-10 when I checked the link.
maybe I'm not looking in the right place but I scoured the website. when I click the link it opens to homepage. then I click "watch material" and the only buckles I see are 14&18K gold where are the other buckles?
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Thanks for the link unfortunately a $200-300 watch strap buckle is out of my price range. nice stuff though
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As the title says, I'm looking for a supplier that has the punches for strap holes, decent buckles etc... also any watch strap makers, what do you stitch with for thread? and hole spacing?
Thanks
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OK sorry I looked quick and wasn't expecting the flap to cover the entire front so I assumed I was seeing the back. as everyone said stitching will hep tie it all together but if you are doing it by hand it sure can seem like a lot of stitching for looks alone!
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So here is my first messenger bag...or any bag for that matter. Where do I go from here? The front flap is very plain and flimsy...yet stiff at the same time (4/5oz veg tan). It reminds me of a sheet of poster board.
What do you recommend I do to polish this up and make it a decent, presentable bag? I'm happy with the strap, but the front seems like a blank canvas to me.
The color is more uniform in real life, and I have yet to put a finish on it.
I like to line my flap that way it stiffens it up a bit, the stitching is uniform all the way around and takes some of the plainness away and I add a small strip to attach the handle to and then that is hidden by the flap liner as well. Why no pic's of the front with the flap closed? With that said I like the bag. Nice brown, what did you use?
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I had a few inquirys for broad gunbelts which shall be 5cm (approx. 2") in width. I am especcialy looking for blank, clipped corner buckles. I couldn't find any at tandy nor on ebay or the central European online stores I am familiar with.
Anybody of you who knows where to get them? Can't be that hard, I suppose?
not clipped but it is 2" http://springfieldle...Sq%2CSB%2C2%22/
and a couple wide buckles about 3/4 down the page http://www.hardwareelf.com/elf/buckles.jsp
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OK so here goes. my feeble attempt to describe what I'd do. cut out a "top" illustrated in yellow. make it so it's not quite to the edge of the seat. tool design and punch holes for lacing around a 1/4" from tops edge and spaced for type of lacing. next cut a strip wide enough to go from the top and wrap under the bottom with enough to staple/rivet to the pan (looks like around 3-4" wide) and make the strip (the side) long enough to go around the seat and make the seam either in the front or back your preference. (red) it's a bit tricky to get the side lined up with the tops holes but I usually make a few holes at the seam end and start lacing and make more holes as I go. if you make the side this way it's much easier to wet form because the side is already mostly shaped to the contour. that deep contour at seat back and horn is hard to form otherwise. don't laugh at my crummy sketch
oh and I find if you make a top and lace a side when you have to wet from you only have to wet the side leaving the tooled top dry and undisturbed
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Hello,
Just getting started in leatherwork for the past few months and would like to ask you folks which suppliers you prefer.I am fortunate enough to live not too far from a Tandy store but not sure if their prices are always competitive or if there are other options available.
Thanks
I still use Tandy for some stuff, especially if I need it quick. I like http://springfieldleather.com/ some of their stuff is the same as Tandy and they also have a club membership if you want but they will cut their leather if you only need a small piece.
http://www.wickett-craig.com/ for when I need a nice piece of Bridle Leather
http://www.buckleguy.com/ I really like this guy for buckles, d-rings and trigger snaps
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Recently bought a Artisan 1797 and am having some issues sewing a corner.
When I get to the corner, when do i turn the material?
Do I turn it when the needle is in the leather, all the way out, somewhere in between?
Its probably something im just missing.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
On my Cobra class4 to make a turn; at the corner the needle has to go all the way down and back up 1/4" then I lift the foot only, make the turn drop the foot and sew. I think the needle coming back up that 1/4" is the important part but I have the electronic positioner on mine so I don't worry about it
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556 - Thanks for the link, I was actually looking around for a supplier for colored linen thread. Is ply the same as cord? If it is I noticed that Royalwood doesn't carry 5 cord linen thread and according to the the Art of Hand Sewing when using a #6 overstitch your suppose to use 5 cord linen thread. In this case is it better to go up or down in cords / plys?
Spence - No worries. I thought maybe the linen thread was something new they were carrying and their website had not been updated yet.
The thread from Tandy/Springfield is 6ply/cord. I have used it for awhile and haven't had any problems with it so far. I have the Royal wood thread card and personally if I were going to order from them I'd go with the 7 cord for any heavy duty items and 4 cord for smaller things. This is just my 2 cents.
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I need to know where the best place to order these things on online for a reasonable price =) Thank you!
http://www.brettunsv...ge.com/leather/ limited selection of floral print (2 colors) but decent price another here http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/BargainBasement.aspx What kind of decorative rivets?
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Are the rivets fixed to clasp or are they just stuck in the holes?
Tandys picture clearly shows holes and they say five rivets are required and nothing about them being included.
On the one I posted the pics for the 2 rivets for the front part of the clasp are attached and on the front they look like fake screws and only require the rivet cap be pressed on.. the other 3 are separate. total parts are three rivets and 5 rivet caps, which came with mine
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The strage thing is they made it look like fake flat head screw heads on the face of the loop you see in the picture and the back side of it is a solid post with no hole in it. I'd like to try and fix them if I can. Maybe file off the post on the back and drill out the two holes that should be there. I am sure the head of the rivet would hide the fact I drilled them out. When I first looked at them i knew something was wrong. Any other sugjesttions would be appreciated. Thank you. John P.S Has anyone used this clasp before? If so share some pics. Would like to see it on something to get an idea of what it will look like on something.
I hope I'm not to late with this reply. The part does not need fixing because they are rivets. here are some pics I just took of one I have. I have used one before as well and it was the same. just look like antique brass jiffy rivets. I placed one of the rivets on the post so you can see it. The rivets should come with it. 3 for the back and 2 extra caps for the "fake screw" posts
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like tree reaper said there "should" be 3 holes for rivets on the back piece. can you open it and take a pic?
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My 2 cents. I have used WC twice and I love their leather. I do agree they are slow in the shipping but I just plan for it and wait. I too am a small fish but they treat me right. I just figure if I want a quality product I have to wait for it the same as the people who order a briefcase from me have to wait 2+ months. I say don't give up on them just know ahead of time it takes 2-3 weeks for leather no matter what. But I also really like Springfield Leather and are always a pleasure to do business with
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Hey All,
Got another one done this weekend, thought you'd like to see it. This one is in 5/6 ounce Vegetable tanned leather. I did a rather unique dye job on this: oiled it with mink oil and then sprayed diluted brown dye onto it with a spray bottle. This way the dye did not quite soak in due to the oil and left a rather cool mottled appearance (kind of a nice antique effect). Came out rather nice I think! Finished off with neatsfoot oil and Resolene.
Thanks for looking!
Andy
very nice I like the clean rustic look
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"cytosine, guanine, adenine, and thymine" Amazing what one suddenly remembers when confronted with such art.
Very cool. How did your friend's son like the belt?
He liked it from what I hear.
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I too have a FB page. I started with just posting pic's of my recent work on my own personal page but when I started getting friends of friends of friends interested I didn't really want all of those unknown people as friends on my personal page so I made a page for my leather work. Go to FB help to find out about making a page. it's sort of attached to your personal page but they are public viewed. you can't make friends but you can send your friends the link to "like" from your personal page. I'm sure I don't use it for it's potential but it is useful and has got me some orders.
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I need a 1" round punch, but have not had much success in finding one that size. Any suggestions??
http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/tools/tools.html scroll about half way down the page to find the single punches.
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Hi again Scary. I'm sorry I was so flippant, didn't realize you need admin permission to get in the adult forum. So I've PM admin. Thanks, Cheryl
Well after you peruse the adult section Double C may end up changing their target marketing LOL
Newbie Got Some Questions
in Motorcycles and Biker Gear
Posted · Report reply
since you can't upload pics I'm assuming from your description that your seat is something like this
if so, they are difficult to form into that deep seat area. You must wet the "sides" or skirt as you put it and wet form it. it takes several times and your fingers will hurt from all the pulling when you are done. I find when I do a seat with a deep curve that it's better to make 2 "sides" that fit the curve of the seat. That way you dont have to try and pull a flat piece into a shape. I hold a stiff piece of construction paper next to it and trace the seat curve then transfer that to my leather adding for an overlapping seam.