grumpyguy

Hey Ryan, great idea with the fence stretcher but what really impressed me was the swivel you fabricated, at least I am assuming you did it. My question is how well is it working out for you? If slippage ever becomes a problem there are some fixes I had thought of incorporating on my own rig, spherical washer sets allow you to tighten the nuts down much tighter with less mauling by standard nuts and washers They can be found at Machinist supply shops and were designed to snug down work pieces on milling tables. They come in sets, top and bottom and go on under the nut, having worked in machine shops as a kid I have seen them tightened down so much the threads on Grade eight bolts were deformed, yet came loose fairly easily with just a wrench. Only other thing I could suggest is to make a very slight bend up on your flat plat to help the plate get a bite on the teeth.

LeatherCaptain, I happened to stumble across this and thought I'd go ahead and add to this thread. Joe from RCSaddles has it right, you want 4, 1/4" strands of rawhide, no core and you don't want just any rawhide. The reata men all try to get a hide from an old cow due to the fact that it would be a little tougher, thicker and will have a nice lay when broken in. Bruce Grants book shows and describes the process well. He advocates rope/sash cord for braided leather reins but not for a rawhide reata. I know a braider who buys a number of hides and then as he cuts them into string he will determine those good enough for reatas and then those that don't make the grade (and the portions of hide not suited) he cuts finer string and makes reins, romals and bosels. He makes really nice stuff, but his focus is making reatas. Hope this helps and is not too late for you. Grumpy guy

Nice Art, Do the snaps on your closing straps work well, I have used buckles in the past and they work real good, a bit of a pain when trying to get in them though. I had considered snaps but was afraid they wouldn,t stay snapped in the brush. Nice job on the bags!

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out what kind, brands, or mix ratios hardener to resin to use for fiberglassing a cutting saddle tree. Any help with this info. would be greatly appreciated as I know very little about glass covered trees. (Old or maybe just old fashioned guy that still likes rawhide on trees, but coming around to giving something "new" a try.) I bought the thing cheap from a cutting horse trainer friend who paid good money to have it made but lost intrest in the project. It's made from southern yellow pine and has been constantly moved from one place to another for nearly fifteen years. (Le'me guess thinkin' pack rat might be coming to mind now, right?) I thought of tossing it but got to thinking I'd seen some nice custom ranch cutters on this forum, so next I thought "Almost like a free tree, Oh why not give it a go." The wood is solid and there are no cracks or other damage/blemishes that would be of concern. I plan to get a horn from Boise Foundry for it, as they show one on thier site that'll fill the bill. I'll make the strainer from 20 gauge galv., sheet that I was also going to toss too, but now plan to use. Thanks in advance for your suggestions and comments. Grumpy Guy

Unfortunate accident for sure. But I, for one, will refrain from saying anything derogitory about the poor victim. True it's not wise to wrestle around with a knife strapped to you. I once had a knife come out the side of a commercially produce sheath. I had finished skinning a bear that a friend had harvested and tagged. I simply placed the knife back in it's sheath and pushed it down. The friend pointed out the mishap as I stoodup prepareing to help haul the animal out of the woods. The blade which was very sharp had gone through the outside of the sheath and was exposed, sticking out ready to slice what ever got too close. The leather was about 10oz. latigo and was sold with the knife when I bought it. Constructed with a nice heavy welt by the way. Only thing I could figure was that some how it caught on the leather and I did not look but just pushed it in as I had done many times before. This time it apparantly came out the side of the sheath exposing about three inches of bare and very sharp blade. I used to carry that knife while on horseback. No more, I only carry folding knives when engaged in more physical activities where there is a risk of falling or having something fall on me. Truth is we cut leather all the time (so we should know how easy a knife can cut though leather) and really if enough force is applied to a knife handle it can cut though our best heavy leather sheath. A fall could easily provide enough force, so this should make us all think twice when wearing/handling cutlery. Incidently I had a butcher friend who sliced his arm when his 10" steak knife pierced out the front of his metal scabbard and he did not see it. Unfortunately our world has changed, reason often doesn't win out in the beginning or the end.

I don't want to sound like a "know it all," because really I don't. While it is possible it could be from South America there is another possibility, as Denise mentioned there are a number of calvary saddles beside the Mc Clellan. Your saddle definately has some cavalry style stirrups. During the era prior to the Civil War period as well as some time after, there was a popularity in what was known as "Plantation" or also known as "Gentelman's saddles." Many old pictures of particularly southern mounted units will show there was not much standardization in horse equipment used. Added to that officers often would use what they preferred over the issued gear. (Both North and South.) Your saddle does not appear to be that old, or has recieved exceptional care. The narrow bars would tend to make me think it is either an older saddle or for other breeds of horses than are commonly found in the states today. One tree that was commonly used in these types were called "Jennifer" patterns. They were made purely for riding and were not designed as a working rig. (Standardbreds and some walking type horses were and are shown in more of this type of saddle, they are typiaclly narrower than Quarter type horses. Might be interesting to check into that as well.) These trees are somewhat weaker in design than western working saddles. Some tree makers still make and sell them. (I've seen the tree advertized in the printed Ritter Saddle tree catalog from 1990.) Without a careful inspection of the saddle and tree it is not possible to even guess, but it does look similar. You might be right about the rigging as this was a common rigging for these types of saddles. (Also noted are the lack of hardware for attaching cavalry type gear.)

5 to 7 oz. latigo should work well, the same as for heavier weight saddle strings. Others could be used but I think latigo would be the best choice.

Wow, you guys have done your homework. Thanks for offering the help here with the info. I started out just wanting to help ct here and decided to try it myself. As a youngster I made some laminated wooden skis and bent some ash for various progects. I found in making jigs that supporting the laminates all the way around the curves is crictical in preventing the splitting. Attention to the grain is also very important as you've already said. Thankyou Greg and Ben. I hope this helps you ct.

ct701996, I build custom bits and spurs, along with some saddlery. I have not tried to cover stirups, but after reading your question I got to thinkin' why not. Here's how I'd go about it. I'd do just like jman said. The only thing I might do different is I'd use white oak because it's more resistant to rot than red oak. It's a little harder to find but boat builders will use nothing else. I'd find the best weather proof finish that will stand up to water and finish them after bending and gluing them together. I'd probably go with brass as it would be easier to work with, nickel would work too, but cost a little more and is somewhat harder to get. Something like 20 or 22 ga. sheet slightly longer than the outside length of your stirups. Your also going to need a bunch of small brass nails and the appropriate sized drill. (Make sure they are brass and not brass plated or you'll get rust as your plating wears off.) Next I'd make a cardstock pattern and allow about an eighth inch or three sixtenths extra all the way around the edges. I'd then cut out the brass and wrap it around the stirup and clamp them in place with some C clamps, using scrap leather to keep from scratching the metal. Drill all the pilot holes every so often and then nail the metal down. Try to place them evenly as possible so it looks good and try not to dimple them too much, flush with the surface of the metal would be good. Pull off the clamps and with smooth jawed set of pliers bend the extra edges slightly over all the way around all the sides. (I make smooth jawed pliers from cheap pliers often found in the sale bin at hardware stores, I carefully grind the teeth out of the end of the pliers and smooth them out. (This takes care and a steady hand.) Smooth jawed blacksmith pliers will work great but you don't see those around much.) Go back and gently tap around the edges until the edges are down against the wood, my choice for this would be a light brass hammer. Try tapping them down a little at a time all the way around to minimizing streching the metal out too much. Keep going around until all is flat with the wood all the way around. Some fine sand paper might be needed to sand out any dings left on the edges. Start with 320 or 400 grit and finsh with 800 grit. A little silver polish with a soft cloth will blend the edges into the smooth shiney finish of the metal. Brass and nickel silver can be obtained through a jewelers supply outfit. I get mine through Santa Fe Jeweler's Supply, they have a web site and have been good to order from. Sterling silver and fine silver is expensive and I'd avoid that on stirups made for everyday use as it does not do well with getting damp and is softer, scratching very easily. As we all know stirups tend to take a beating on and off the horse. Thing is I want to encourage you to give it a try. All of us older folks are always telling kids what they should or should not try. I wish someone had taken enough intrest to help me learn about the things I was interested in at sixteen. If making cowboy and buckaroo gear is what you want to do you could certainly do alot worse. Good luck and post your results. Who knows you might find you're good at it and you can make and sell custom stirups to all your buckaroo friends. If you come up with questions give a yell. I will probably give this a try too, I'm planning a saddle for my daughter and this might give it that extra kick, and I'd be able to say I did it myself! I'm thinking of making them with contrasting initials and engraved trim, I've already started on her horn cap and cantel plate. Her tree is also in the works, bars and cantel are glued up, it'll be a 15 1/2" wade.

Curbstrap, I have had similar experience, I foolishly stored a saddle in the basment which occasionally leaked. I found part of my saddle with a light coating of mold from the dampness. I just used saddle soap alot of elbow grease and then set the saddle in front of the fireplace for a couple of days. When fully warm and dry, I used neatsfoot oil on it. This was about four or so years ago. I since have taken care to see that it is stored in drier conditions. Today you would not even be able to tell. I have friend who left a saddle in a trailer for a month and had the same problem, he discovered his mistake and used saddle soap and then Leathernew. His came out okay too. It happens but we usually learn from those mistakes.

Old timer, I personally would avoid the lacing on the seat portion on any thing you intend to ride for any length of time at all. I have been south of the boarder and once spent an afternoon riding a rented rig and horse. The fit for the horse was not good and even worse for me. Long story short the lacing on the mochilla on the rig I rode wore a hole in my hide. Needless to say I provided much entertainment for the Mexican horse wranglers. Keep the seat as smooth and trouble free as possible! Hidemechanic has you on the right track, casing the leather properly will do alot for getting it to lay right. Any excessivly stiff area could be skived some to help it lay right too. Just like making a seat on a modern saddle, I would put the heavier stiffer end toward the forks and the lighter more supple leather to the rear of the cantle, which is where I'd anticipate having the problem with how it laid out. If you have to splice to get a big enough piece, I'd recommend splicing behind the cantel and stiching your bags over the top to hide the stiched splice. Just a thought as I have not made one of these myself. Incidently I like to ride alot and have never found any enjoyment in riding the older style saddles when riding long distances my few experiences were somewhat painful in the end if you can gather what I mean. I like a smooth, full, unpadded seat, on a modern styled seat, I guess the old time waddies had a much stiffer constution than I. Good luck I hope your project goes well, can't wait to see the outcome.

randyo7, Several months ago there was a thread on this topic, I'm sure if you check through the saddlery topics you can find it. It really is not possible to comeup with reasonable value for your saddle with the information you have provided. First off Billy Cook saddles were made by more than one maker. Those that seem to retain the most value are maked "Billy Cook Saddlery, Sulpher Springs, OK." These are manufactured by the Billy Cook Saddlery company, owned by Billy Cook himself. There are a number of models and types built by the Billy Cook Saddlery and others under that name. They make cutting, roping reining, barrel racing saddles to name just a few. The best way to get an accurate amount would be to contact saddlery dealers (preferably that deal in used as well as new saddlery) in your area and have them inspect your particular saddle. Getting a few quotes will help you get a better idea of what it's real value is. Area is important as local preferences can strongly affect the value.

Very, nice job Annie! Looks better than my first headstall! Just to give you an idea, look at some made for Western Horse shows. One place to visit online is highcountrycowboy.com among several others. They have some stuff similar to what you've made and they get pretty nice prices for them too. Keep at it you're off to a good start. I also like the way the bit attaches. That's a nice feature, especially if you might be changing bits fairly often. Regards, Grumpy

Very, very nice JW! I like the hidden stiched back cantel! This is the first one I've seen though I have heard mention of it before. Is it very difficult to do?

I like 100% wool felt pads as well. I am curious, is the hair breaking off or is it thinning, possibly falling out. I am not familiar with the pad you describe other than seeing ad's in magazines. I know pad makers will make claims of the supriority of their products against all the others. I tend to stay with natural fiber pads made from wool. They have always served their purpose well. Pads are easily contaminated by dirt, grime and fungus. Especially if you use your gear on multiple horses or loan out gear to friends. (Most of us will do that from time to time.) I clean my pads often with a metal curry to remove hair, salt and grime left by previous use. I do this every time I notice any grime clinging to the pad. I also take time to inspect every inch of my mounts back and girth while brushing and preparing to saddle. (I expect you likely do this as well.) I wash out my pads and saddle blankets with water at least once or twice a year depending on use. (sometimes more often.) I am also careful to allow pads to dry thoroughly before using. (Damp pads will encourage fungus to grow and spread.) Make sure your pads lay open to circulating air. (meaning the side that is against your horse is facing up.) I learned this from a friend who rode often and didn't keep his pads very clean. He rode different horses with his gear. One of his horses started to lose the hair on his back. He washed the back and checked for sores. He changed pads as he thought the horse might have a sensitvity to the pad he was using. He watched and the condition did not improve. He ended up calling his vet which determined the horse had been infected with a fungus. Vet described it as similar to athlete's foot people get. vet gave him a name of a medicated shampoo. The horse recovered quickly and the hair grew back. He replaced the wool pad with a new one and had no more problem. After that he took care to let his pads dry. He had often piled them on a blanket or pad rack in his tack room. He thought the fungus was encoraged by sweaty damp pads and blankets not drying thoroughly. He has never had the problem reoccur. He thought the problem might have been spread to his horse from riding a horse at a stable that was for sale about a month prior. I'd advise maybe trying some of the medicated shampoos available at feed stores, if that does not help then call your vet. You could try a new pad but if it is a fungus then you'll just spend money on a new pad that will have to be disposed of because it became contaminated. I have also seen geldings lose hair due to sheath infections. If you are not experienced with cleaning your gelding's sheath you should find some one who is and knows what to look for. If you find an infection you might need a vet to treat it and show you what follow up treatment he will want you to do. Hair falling out can be caused by very minor fungal problem, allergies or be a symptom of more serious health contitions inside the animal. If it can not be corrected quickly you need to call your vet. I hope this is helpful and you and your gelding find the souce of the problem. Regards and Merry Christmas, Grumpy Guy