grumpyguy

Rookie, I have to agree with Skip here. Rebuidling a saddle is time consuming and cost almost as much as building a new one. You could do it but really consider these points. ( I have been down this road as well so I know what I'm talking about.) 1. What kind of tree does it have and is the tree in good shape. (No mold, mildew, cracks, rotted wood or worn or torn rawhide, all common in old saddle in poor condition. Pay attention to the areas around the saddle string holes, nail holes and the screw concho holes, any rot or craks and the tree should be discarded and not used.) 2. Is the tree from a reputable manufacture. (Either quality rawhide covered wood or fiberglass covered wood.) 3. Does the tree fit you well and will you still like using that style saddle in the future. (Do you think your style or type of riding will change.) 4. How bad is the original leather coverings and skirt, is the rigging in poor shape. All will indicate the use or abuse the saddle recieved previously. 5. Laying out the patterns on the skirting leather will require some expert help as certain portions are better for cutting specific parts. (Get advise from a reputable saddle maker.) There are many more things you should consider but these are the beginning. Good Luck and have fun. If it's not going to be fun don't try it is my advise. Starting with something new your creating yourself is always fun!

Ashley, Those pockets are down right practial in design. I take it you have spent "a little time a horse back" in rough country! Definately some practical thought into features to keep them in place and minimize shifting. I still can't get over it, such a simple deal, the front string or strap passes through the holes on the front side of the pockets back and then passes though the saddles rear dee. The hole is located close to the rear dee where it belongs. It would make for easy repair or replacement should it get fouled and broken on the trail. I haven't seen anything quite like them before and I have been to a lot of custom shops! Most are riveted on and when they foul, the rivet pulls out, either the bag back or the strap are damaged and not easily repaired on the trail. (I can't tell you how many times this has happened when riding with my partners. Gear lost and destroyed is the norm.) If they are going though holes they are usually located higher up above the pocket lids, making it harder to secure them against the saddle skirt. Sometimes causing shifting and an annoying bouncing when chasing a cow. (I'm sure the horses don't care for the pounding they take from it either.) Another fine example of someone who thinks outside the box just enough to come up with something really great! (Us horse people are often not much for new ideas and the thinking outside the box thing.) I take my hat off to you.

Hi Everyone, I'm "Grumpyguy" or so my better half insist, personally I think she's mistaken but oh well. (I really think I'm a nice guy.) I have played cowboy for some time and of course over the years broken gear and tack and taught myself to repair it or make new stuff. Before I knew it I was fixing this and that for others I rode with. I've made wallets, belts, breast collars, rear cinches with billets, spur straps and headstalls. Also play with bit and spur making. I hope to start building saddles and saddle trees. My fist tree is underway now hopefully I'll be able to post a picture or two soon. I hope to learn from those with different experience and if possible help others with my experiences. Look forward to meeting all of you.

Thanks, David. Grumpy

Ashley, Great looking rig. You did a fantastic job laying out and stamping the design. The lacing on the swells is very attactive. Lacing on swells is tough for me to get even. The saddle pockets are a nice design, did you come up with those? Anyway I like them. The roughout seat is really popular but I favor the top grain seats, that way when I come off a horse unexpectedly I can just blame, "The danged slickery seat!" Good job!

Lou, I know Boise Foundry sells the arches that the panniers hang on in a few styles. They also have the decker hooks to simplify loading the panniers to the arches. (I highly recommend them.) I was under the impression that you were looking for the rigging rings (Sometimes called "dees," "dee rings" or "rings." ) that hold the decker rig to the pack animal. I thought I might let you know the arches are heated and bent to adjust for fit. It's easy to do but takes a heating tip on a welding outfit. I have used plumbers torches with mapp gas but they are not quite hot enough to get the arch to bend easily. (With an assistant, welding gloves. a bench vise and the proper amount of leverage it can done, as long as you don't object to getting a few burns.) Packers will use plain white flour, sprinkle it on the animal's back and bend the arches until the tree bars fit properly on the back. (When you set the saddle on the animal and take it off again you can see where the flour sticks.) On occasion a tree bar will need to be rasped down in areas to finish the fit. There is often times more variation in mule conformation than you average horses, plus with a pack saddle the animal hauls dead wieght which shifts and unlike a rider does not balance it's self. Fit becomes paramount or you will sore your pack animal very quickly and with mules in particular sour dispositions develop rapidly from the painful experience. Just food for thought. Western Horseman had a great artical on this a few years back with nice photos for illustration. (I'm old so a few years is subjective.) Sorry I don't recall the name of the artical. Good Luck and Enjoy!

Timberwolf, Nice job! I favor the bib style staps like these. I like the spots! Did you airbrush the stain on the edges? The cart buckle is nice. I've looked for those locally here and only could find the No. 5 buckles which I make do with. I make these as well. (Tooled with background only and no spots which I've sold or given away all but my personal pair.) Mine are molded just before they are totally dried, after tooling and stiched to the lining. (Lining is dampened and molded at the same time.) That way they fit over the boots right where you want them. No heel chains (or baling twine) required to keep yer spurs in place. Try poppin' cows out of the brush and fouling your spurs with heel chains on them. Makes for a little strain on the joints. Anyway they never flatten out, always stay put and if you foul they will not do damage to yer horse if you gouge him in a wreck. (They happen even if your trying to be careful.) But it takes planning to get them to come out right.

Very nice. The tooling looks great. I've always liked a more mellow back ground, the black is too harsh for me but the execution of the design and the qualty of the back ground staining is excellent! I like the hair on pocket, adds some class but my only concern would be how will it wear? The stiching is nice and even and for the most part very striaght, you do that on a machine or is it hand stiched? Great idea with the seat folding trick. I make old fashion style lined spur straps and usually tool the strap and then before the strap dries fully (slightly damp) then dampen, mold and stich the lining on, trim and edge both pieces. You can't make them straighten out if you wanted to. ( Not good for a note book though.) Anyway they stay put on yer boots without dangerous heel chains and are less likely to foul when riding. Maybe I'll check the cab of my Dodge for a good spot to fold or form some leather!

Very nice, you're bound to be the talk of the gun range for awhile once he shows it off. Always liked the style which you executed quite nicely.

I have pondered this myself for some time. Hidecrafter hit the nail squarely on the head so I'll not repeat his points. I have decided to try my hand at tree making and launch my own project. In my view the traditional trees are the way I will go. No one has proven to me yet there is another superior product out there. (Then again maybe that shows my own stubbornness.) I have repaired saddles for friends and counter parts, rebuilt saddles of my own and made custom tack items. I also have ridden a substantial amount on a variety of horses and spent days in the saddle. I know what fits and what is going to cause trouble. (Both for my horses and myself.) Awhile back I got the itch to make up a saddle and began looking for a tree. I decided against a "factory tree" and found the custom makers were busy taking care of thier already established clients and did not want to take time to just build a tree for a newaccount that was not proven. (As anyone with good sense and a backlog of orders would do.) They of course directed me to a number of saddle makers (their clients) who politely tried to talk me into ordering a saddle from them and not try it myself. I began to consider making trees myself and have spent time studying a few saddles, seeing how the trees were made. I then began to notice some saddle makers were making trees for themselves. I see the advantage in maintaining control of the entire saddle building operation. This gives the maker control in making trees for his specs and application, thus making sure his clients will be satisfied with an above average product. (Hopefully or perhaps at least in the maker and more importantly the customers minds.) All of this being said, I have run into a major snag in I have not located a source for the bull hide. The local processor here can't be a reliable supply and he sells all of his hides to a buyer for a tannery. If someone out there knows where I can get the frozen bull hides I would be greatful for the information. If I can get the materials I believe I could produce a satifactory tree. Hopefully shortly I'll be able to post the results of my efforts here, soon. (Might have been simpler to just holler, "HELP, WHERE CAN I GET BULL HIDE FOR MY TREES!" but I could not help myself.) Rod and Denise, I would be intersted in information on your "small package" if they are still being offered.

Try looking up Boise Foundry on Google, they sell a wide variety of saddlery hardware including decker parts. Also there are some of the better pack saddle shops like Difanis Backcountry. (Also with a site online.) Most are helpful. I have seen most deckers setup with "rings" rather than "dees." I am curious as to why one would prefer dees over the rings though both would certainly work.

Nice saddle. Not being a cutter myself I like the seat better than most cutters you see around. Nice contrast in colors and I 'am certain this saddle is not done justice by the florecent lighting in the photo. I agree with Bruce as to the strings both color and length, however keep in mine the customers prefernce must come first above our own. It is simple enough and such a minor thing to change if need be. It reminds me of the old Bob Marshals that were "the thing" with penners and cutters in the mid eighties and early ninties. They were a custom maker, but went semi custom, (Similar to Mc Calls, better than most production saddles but not fully custom.) I don't know if theyare still around.

Classy job! Unusual to see "mulehide wrap" on a cutter, is the tree and horn designed for more than just a handle to steady a rider cutting in an arena? Most cutters aren't made to stand up to a rope as the trees are often thin southern pine for the bars and small bases on the horn. Nice flat seat which would appeal to serious cutting competiors.